Vs. and rawlins.

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lambert
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Post by lambert » Fri Jun 02, 2006 10:57 pm

oh really! shit musvts read it wrong

but somehow u still cant answer the question

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vortex
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Post by vortex » Fri Jun 02, 2006 10:58 pm

dinosaur wrote:catching and taking off on any wave is a lot more difficult on a surfboard than a lid. It's not that lids are more technically proficient in difficult, steep round ledges. It's that it's easier to take off on those waves on a lid. Actually the technical aspect comes into it riding the wave. This is where lids lose speed and often get stuck behind sections (im talking big waves here)
and only not falling off, cause you cant really on a lid. And im not bickering, just trying to put forward an argument. Which has seemed to escaped the superior comprehension powers of one lambert and also it would seem mr petelev4, or something equally unpronouncable
Well in a nutshell i'd say the biggest separation between the sports is this:

STICK - harder to takeoff/take a drop.
LID - harder to hold your line and not slide out under the lip.


Of course this is when waves start getting to a reasonable size. Where a big issue in surfing is 'falling off', bodyboarding has the 'sliding out' problem. Great body position and being able to move your body to suit the section is what addresses this. It's what makes the good riders good - Their positioning allows them to keep up speed to make deeper sections and launch higher airs.

There's actually a lot that goes into a custom bodyboard dude. Things like:

Core - main choices being Polypropylene, a light, stiff, waterproof core suited to warmer waters, and Dow, a heavier material which while it doesnt usually have as long a life, has much desired flex properties that polypro generally doesnt.

Measurements - Obvious. Important measurements include: length from nose to tail, widest point, how far down the board the wide point is, nose width, and thickness. These measurements drastically affect the board will function. In the simplest of explanations, you need to find the right balance between bouyancy and ability to spin (wider board), and speed (narrow, bullet like). Dropknee boards are a totally different template, often with a narrow nose allowing them to carve and generally a wide body the rest of the way down for bouyancy. Shapers will cut your board to the nearest 1/8 inch in my experience, i'm sure they'd go finer if you requested.

Rail ratio - 50/50 or 60/40 being the main two choices. The correct rail ratio is very much suited to your weight, but what's constant is that the right rail combo will assist greatly in holding a line on a steep face. Remember, sponges have no fins holding them in the face, and when travelling fast enough, your legs are at best, skimming along the water.

Stringers - Flexier boards are generally better, as i said above. Howver, a good board has a healthy balance of stiffness and flex. Flex to smoothly bottom turn and carve, stiffness to hold that oh so prescious line in the barrel. Ideally a board has no stringer, and may also have some other sort of strength infrastructure like mesh, a sort of soft wire skeleton, if you will. However, stringers do make boards last longer. For the kids who dont have sponno's handing them free boards every month, a board's length of life is of course very important.

Nowadays you can opt for either one, two, or no stringers if you'd like. Stringers have traditionally been more or less a strong, light rod made out of carbon fibre. Recent developments have included stringers such as the one installed in my badboy - 'flextip'. Flextip is the same carbon fibre rod with a section about 2/3 the way up the thing which is made of a very elastic chemical (lost its name sorry). The idea is that the stringer provides the stiffness when you need it, as well as closeley mimicking the flex properties of a stringerless board. My experience has been that my brand new board arrived and instantly rode as though it was worn in. The board bent the way i wanted it to from day one. Unreal.

Tail - Again, in a nutshell:
Crescent tail (like a big 'u') - best for turning and allow more control over where you'd like to direct the board.
Bat tail - hard to describe shape... Anyway, have slightly more surface area so in theory faster, and easier to lose your rail (when you want to, such as into a spin).
There are variations of these designs but theyre the two fundamentals. The tail's subtle differences make them each better suited to different types of waves, though a lot of it is down to individual choice of course.

Channels are another cutomisable feature of a bodyboard. The big choices are graduated or slotted. I've not used anything other than graduated so i cant vouch for any of it. The theory is that different channels work better in different size.

Then of course you've got perks such as customisable colours and shit when you get a board made specifically for you. Always a thrill. I guess bodyboards come in a lot of colour combos, but surfboards have a lot of cool graphics where sponges dont. Doesnt really affect the 'technical proficiency' of either board anyway.

Anyway Dino, the point is that these are all very subtle differences that will be noticed by an experienced rider. The very same goes for surfboards. A kook, regardless of what they ride, is going to classify surfboards into 'clunkers' and 'shorties', and make assumptions about bodyboards just being the same old pile of foam as the next.

You obviously have limited understanding of how unique a lid can be, and i'll be the first to admit my knowledge of surfboard functionality is severely limited. Again, the boards just do different things better.

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lambert
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Post by lambert » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:02 pm

holly shit vortex bit of detail did u type that?

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vortex
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Post by vortex » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:03 pm

Yeah breh. Procrastinating. Exams looming.

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Post by lambert » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:18 pm

oh shit yeh mine start on mon! got 5 tests in four days than i got a 6 day break after, hope for some swell

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Post by nick » Sat Jun 03, 2006 9:47 am

with rawlins and the vs project, after finding this pic im pretty sure he is goin to vs, since the billabong stamp, and the shape of the board.




to my knowledge this board was shaped by jarrod gibson, who was mitch's shaper at 4play. [img][img]http://f5.putfile.com/6/15219445723.jpg[/img][/img]

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Post by TheSadamm » Sat Jun 03, 2006 10:22 am

:wink: 8) :P

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Post by lambert » Sat Jun 03, 2006 1:03 pm

looks like a higjer w.p than last time, or not but JG is friggin good, he shaped for hardy aswell, after quigley left 4play

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Post by lambert » Sat Jun 03, 2006 8:57 pm

HAHAHA UR A FUKIN LOSER DINO WHY DID U EDIT IT? IS IT CUZ I BURNT U AND U DIDNT HAVE ANYTHING TO SAY SO U WENT AWAY AND HAD A THINK ABOUT HHM?

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Post by The Dan » Sat Jun 03, 2006 9:20 pm

apparently manta / 4play are working on a composite dow, polypro core. dow in the middle for flex, polypro on the outside 4 strentgh. should be good if it happens

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lambert
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Post by lambert » Sat Jun 03, 2006 9:37 pm

so will this work in unison with flex-tip stringer or just work on the same principal? too early to tell spose

at least they are doing something right

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Post by LaNkYbOoG » Sat Jun 03, 2006 11:03 pm

so wats the diff between nmd stox, such as the player or the winchester compared to the VS boards? r they gonna cost more, does it have more options or is its just a gimmick to sell more boards?
ILOVETOBOOGIE

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Post by Luke » Sun Jun 04, 2006 1:32 am

To make you look special.

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Post by The Dan » Sun Jun 04, 2006 10:39 am

symbiotic mutalism. Rawlins gets free board, mez gets to sell em 4 $$$ and rawlins is still free to shop around 4 a new board sponsor, free from contract obligations.

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Post by lambert » Sun Jun 04, 2006 11:40 am

its pretty much gonna be the 4play of old. best materials all hand shaped and due to the shaper only shaping that one template he will be pretty fine tuned soo there will be less imperfections, they will be all buzztech and they come with a pretty logo. they will be a very nice board but they will com with a juicy price tag. personnally i think there is a huge market for them, working in bobyboard retail myself i see too many ppl come in and say' i want a player cuz he rides the best' and then they go pp cuz its better even thouhg they cant nail a forward spin!

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Post by Booger777 » Sun Jun 04, 2006 1:08 pm

I'll be buying fo sure.

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Post by LaNkYbOoG » Sun Jun 04, 2006 3:41 pm

i lvoe that, u see guys with the maddest, best boards and they are crap. cant even ride the wave properly. a good noob board example is the NMD unltd and the hubb graphics.
ILOVETOBOOGIE

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Post by lambert » Sun Jun 04, 2006 3:46 pm

hahahah too right lankydog! dude i sold this one cat 2 pp players [one cres, one bat] and a set of tech two's... twas a big sale but the funny thing is that he surfed! he was buying them for when he didnt want to SURF!! i went out to his car to chuck the shit it geuss what it was....

mercedes e 430, lowered with huge rims! :roll:

biggest images concious ***. i didnt even give him discount for all the shit !! :lol: 8)

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