Pro surfers who don't surf anymore??

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Slowman
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Post by Slowman » Wed Apr 04, 2007 10:51 am

The MP bio by Sean Doherty was about he saddest thing I've ever read, the best thing about that book was some of the history it went through.

True people give up surfing for all sorts of reasons. I nearly gave up surfing for the last 20 years because I've been involved in other sports, cycling and triathlon. I went without a surf for up to 3 months at a time just because of the training volumes required to be competitive - 25hrs+ a week on top of a full time job with children and even study left me not much time to spend surfing. I still say surfing is the best fun per calorie sport when it's on, but when it isn't you waste a lot of time looking for it.

Anyway, throughout that period I had a crash and screwed my hip, 4 operations later a total of 1 year spent on crutches (had my leg broken and reset 2 times 11 years apart) and about 4 years rehab and the fear that I'd never surf again, I've got my fuggin' mojo back now that I can surf again. I can surf pretty much pain free now, 3 years ago saw me wince in pain every time I had to get to my feet. That wince would throw my balance - I wouldn't fall off I could correct it but for fast down the line waves it just meant I couldn't make them. I blew 7 in a row one day at one of my favorite little secret spots - after a few grinds of the hip it would somehow warm up and not hurt so much then I just had to convince the rest of the lineup I was OK now and not to drop in :lol: and that's as easy as coming back from the dead when everyone is frothing.

Anyway I know a few others that have pulled the pin, or resigned to riding planks because of injury. I all but gave up for 2 reasons but now I am back surfing on a more regular basis partly because for the moment I've overcome my injuries however I haven't quit the other sports either. When the surf is shite there is nothing like riding through some narrow bush trails on a mountain bike for some fun. If I could just give up working I could fit it all in. But if you ever find yourself thinking that surfing isn't thrilling anymore just think seriously about not being able to surf again that should get you in touch with what it is you love about the sport. Still I'd recommend some time out in another sport too (but not contact sports they will wreck your joints) so that you miss it a little - what do they say? Absence makes the heart grow fonder.

betinho1974
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Re: Pro surfers who don't surf anymore??

Post by betinho1974 » Thu Dec 09, 2010 1:59 pm

Larry Blair lives in Bali and surf everyday check he`s interview out http://www.indosurflife.com/surfnews/39 ... -bali.html

pridmore
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Re: Pro surfers who don't surf anymore??

Post by pridmore » Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:08 pm

Image

diggerdickson
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Re: Pro surfers who don't surf anymore??

Post by diggerdickson » Sat Dec 18, 2010 8:35 pm

what a awesome photo mark, just awesome, you gotta blow that one up :D
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".

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Re: Pro surfers who don't surf anymore??

Post by pridmore » Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:52 am

straight to the pool room ...
He actually talked to Cain a bit... Tracks took pics of it too, then asked Cain several questions about stuff....it was cool coz Cain has known about MP since he was tiny, we watched MOTE alot years ago...wonder how many other 12 yr olds would recognise MP or even know who he is..... 8)

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Pro surfers who don't surf anymore??

Post by crabmeat thompson » Sun Dec 19, 2010 8:13 am

pridmore wrote:wonder how many other 12 yr olds would recognise MP or even know who he is..... 8)
I reckon none.
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chrisb
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Re: Pro surfers who don't surf anymore??

Post by chrisb » Sun Dec 19, 2010 8:40 am

betinho1974 wrote:Larry Blair lives in Bali and surf everyday check he`s interview out http://www.indosurflife.com/surfnews/39 ... -bali.html
Interesting article. I think he might now be bit heavier than the 60kgs he said he was when he was 20. :)

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