taking off on hollow waves.

Tribal discussion for shortboarders

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hando777

Post by hando777 » Thu Jul 07, 2005 9:59 am

I'm not going to give any advice, since you guys are way better surfers than me I think! But you can check out the Tracks website where mark matthews gives a few tips on this exact issue.

Cheers..

Nick Carroll
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Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jul 07, 2005 4:03 pm

Refrusloi wrote:my point was sometimes you have to lean back and turn ASAP or else your nose will go under. you have no other choice. you cant lean forward first or youll eat it.
Nay, Refrusloi, you do not have to lean back. What you gotta do on a late drop is SET THE FRONT RAIL.

The rocker and outline curve in the first two and a half feet of board will then pull you into a turn, sure as eggs is fricken eggs.

To set the front rail, you gotta drive down into the wave face and roll your board slightly on to the rail at the same time.

It's easier to do this backside, because it's easier to weight the backside rail, because you're on your heels, which is why Oldman finds it easier to take off late backside.

It's simple but coounterintuitive because your instinct on a late drop is pull away from the drop, not hurl yourself into it. But there ya go. A lot of high performance surfing is counter intuitive.

go go go!!
xxnc

Refrusloi

Post by Refrusloi » Sun Jul 10, 2005 5:22 pm

thanks for setting me straight :)

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marcus
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Post by marcus » Sun Jul 10, 2005 6:23 pm

hey nick, seems just like dropping into a half pipe on a skatey, (ive never done it) but my youngest bro says you have to lean forward.
the setting the rail thing makes sense too
Oscar Wilde - "I am not young enough to know everything"

Nick Carroll
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Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jul 14, 2005 11:18 am

'Tis very similar, with similar, even more immediate results -- rear away from the drop and you'll eat it horribly.

Gravity wants you to take the drop! No point avoiding it, even though our initial instincts usually tell us to.

You know that feeling when you're at the edge of a cliff and your self preservation instinct causes your heart to flutter and your palms to sweat -- yet at the same time, something in you is thinking "What the heck would it feel like to jump?"

That something is what'll get you in. Sometimes I think that's why so many great riders of steep heavy waves (Pipe, Teahupo'o etc) are fairly "experimental" people in lots of other ways too. In them, self preservation comes second to "what's it like?"

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tootr
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Post by tootr » Thu Jul 14, 2005 9:35 pm

...apart from the right equipment ( a banksy will do nicely), and total commitment, set your eyes and the rest will follow..

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Agro
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Post by Agro » Fri Jul 22, 2005 11:14 am

tootr wrote:...apart from the right equipment ( a banksy will do nicely), and total commitment, set your eyes and the rest will follow..
Image

Flea musn't have set his eyes.

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oldman
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Post by oldman » Fri Jul 22, 2005 5:07 pm

Thanks Nick,

That's an interesting tip about high performance surfing being counter-intuitive.

While I'm no high performance surfer I can sort of get what you mean.

Next time I'm out in difficult to handle surf I'll try to keep that in mind.

Cheers
Lucky Al wrote:You could call your elbows borogoves, and your knees bandersnatches, and go whiffling through the tulgey woods north of narrabeen, burbling as you came.

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One Mile Point
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Post by One Mile Point » Sun Jul 24, 2005 12:29 am

Agro wrote:
tootr wrote:...apart from the right equipment ( a banksy will do nicely), and total commitment, set your eyes and the rest will follow..
Image

Flea musn't have set his eyes.
that a mad picture

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One Mile Point
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Post by One Mile Point » Sun Jul 24, 2005 12:31 am

another flea wipeout

Image

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Clif
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Post by Clif » Fri Jul 29, 2005 7:56 am

oh my god lol

reggie

Post by reggie » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:18 am

that generally happens to me on any sucky kind of wave... thats just because im sh*t though...

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One Mile Point
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Post by One Mile Point » Fri Jul 29, 2005 8:43 pm

he likes jumping he should do bungee jumping or base jumping

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