that it a month and a half psshhhh try 3monthsfong wrote:i'm back in the water
plasters off.....doc said wait till xmas....yeah rite
i get up at 4.40 am drive too me backwater pointbreak....in the water by 5.47 ( exactly ) and its head to shoulder high....BEST FUN
by 9am the nth easter into it but i'm soooooooooooo tired by than it's home to bed
i feel like a mad grommet.....i feel like i haven't surfed 4 like ten million years ( was a month and a half )
i feel sooo happy again
i got take it easy with the foot and all but DAMN HOW MUCH FUN IS SURFING
how good is this!!!
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- One Mile Point
- Snowy McAllister
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- Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2004 5:44 pm
Re: how good is this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ahh mate, I know exactly what you're going through. By about the fourth month you get very rusty and even though ya riding like a complete kook after it, the surf is every bit as enjoyable.
Kinda reminds me of this mad wave I got this morning. Haven't been in anything over 3ft for sooo long and today I got a 5ft set bomb at a sweet point break setup. It's been so long since I've ridden something that size. I was just in awe of the thing. At least double overhead for me and couldn't do anything else but gun it down the line, listening to the roar of the white water behind me and feeling the awesome energy underneath my board. Seemed to go on forever... the sunshine beaming off the long wall ahead of me... ahh the memory is all too recent :)
Sorry to ramble on!
Kinda reminds me of this mad wave I got this morning. Haven't been in anything over 3ft for sooo long and today I got a 5ft set bomb at a sweet point break setup. It's been so long since I've ridden something that size. I was just in awe of the thing. At least double overhead for me and couldn't do anything else but gun it down the line, listening to the roar of the white water behind me and feeling the awesome energy underneath my board. Seemed to go on forever... the sunshine beaming off the long wall ahead of me... ahh the memory is all too recent :)
Sorry to ramble on!
- One Mile Point
- Snowy McAllister
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fong you will dead when the day comes when souths are championsfong wrote:it's hard do much more than take off and bottom turn
foots in bucket ice now
BUT WOW how much fun is it too ride a wave
just to speed accross a green face under natures power
and my new board/experment....goes
p.s ompers your time will come...u paying 4 bad karma ( bulldog supporter ) you'll live next sea soon...and surf every day...and cry into u beer when souths beat dogs in a grandfinal (study harder )
- dammit__01
- Owl status
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well we all know that every one hates manly! GO THE SHARKIES!!!stoive wrote:hey omp i might hate the rabittohs, but i hate the BULLDOGS MORE .
ps go those mighty eagles
man i wouldnt be able to cope i spent 2 week in malaysia with family dying for waves. althho i have gone for periods of about 2 months without surfing when i could just surf was either flat or has cumething better to do Me---> 8==== <---- sexy lady
- One Mile Point
- Snowy McAllister
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- Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2004 5:44 pm
ha one and a half months . . .
Try moving to england like i did. Two hours to any coast, three to the nearest surfable coast in wales. Water temp is 10 degrees at best and its just been snowing. Surf is shit due to weak periods even when there is size. Oh, and i have to put up with two winters before i see summer again . . . left aust in august.
Then again i could alway go to amsterdam and become a porn star
Try moving to england like i did. Two hours to any coast, three to the nearest surfable coast in wales. Water temp is 10 degrees at best and its just been snowing. Surf is shit due to weak periods even when there is size. Oh, and i have to put up with two winters before i see summer again . . . left aust in august.
Then again i could alway go to amsterdam and become a porn star
Re: how good is this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
good to hear ya rippping it up againtong wrote:i got take it easy with the foot and all but DAMN HOW MUCH FUN IS SURFING
now if only I could organise some time to come up and drop in on youse
If it's well engineered it's beautiful .
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
You're just another mug in maroon NCarroll ~ South Sydney is the upcoming event of the new millenium matey .. the best little brand in the business .. the rabbitohs will rip the tripe out of those sea budgies AT BROOKVALE next year and I've got that $250,000 that never made it to the Avalon Wave-ski Tow-in to back me up.
Lard Lad will provide the escrow ~
Lard Lad will provide the escrow ~
hey moontan, quit WHINGEING! if you want waves enough you'll get them. the welsh reefs can all be awesome if you get the tides right. buy a decent 5'4'3 wettie and MAN UP! once you've walked thru the snow to surf empty pointbreak perfection (yes - it definitely exists!) you'll know the love of surfing!
and if you think england never gets waves check here:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/shared/spl/hi/p ... html/1.stm
big enough for me!
and if you think england never gets waves check here:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/shared/spl/hi/p ... html/1.stm
big enough for me!
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