RealSurf Surfers' Forum

for most people, the "spectrum of ideal usability" for those garden-variety stumpy sub-6'0 boards (5'4 to 5'8 etc) is so narrow it's almost totally pointless. if/when they work (well), it's only in (some) knee to shoulder-high stuff anyway. outside of this, what's the point?

That pretty much describes the surf from Byron to Noosa for most of the year.

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alakaboo wrote:That pretty much describes the surf from Byron to Noosa for most of the year.

yeah but, there's a gaping maw of difference in northern nsw to seq waves vs southern waves. manicured and shelf-buffered typically bowlier waves vs deeper water random patchy/shifty thicker/lumpier waves of down south.

so without going into the maths of it all, by default, you're going to find a stumpy little board of more use in waves up north, vs down south.

Legion wrote:I disagree, iggs. I surfed a 5'9" x 19 1/2" (?) for a good year or so up to and including some stuff that would have been approaching 6' and while not ideal, it was doable. A lot of days in the 0-4' range, no issue. Of course, it excelled in the 0-2' range but was still fun in the 2-4' range. And a wild ride at 6'.

again, you're seemingly a pretty-good surfer, and by paraphrase, it 'worked best in the 0-2 foot range'.

so in conclusion, if you're an already-pretty-good surfer, and want a fun little pocket rocket for knee to shoulder high, then yes, by all means get yourself a stumpy little board. but if you're an average or less surfer, then dont-waste-your-fk-time-or-money on one. but droves and droves of average-to-below-average surfers out there are all getting brainwashed into thinking that they're going to benefit from going 5'4 to 5'8, AND, going to be able to use effectively. HKs or otherwise.

Good luck to them either way. every wave they fk up or miss, is a wave i'll be taking from them. still fun to gaffaw at them all the same

Hatchnam wrote:

alakaboo wrote:That pretty much describes the surf from Byron to Noosa for most of the year.

yeah but, there's a gaping maw of difference in northern nsw to seq waves vs southern waves. manicured and shelf-buffered typically bowlier waves vs deeper water random patchy/shifty thicker/lumpier waves of down south.

so without going into the maths of it all, by default, you're going to find a stumpy little board of more use in waves up north, vs down south.


so in conclusion, if you're an already-pretty-good surfer, and want a fun little pocket rocket for knee to shoulder high, then yes, by all means get yourself a stumpy little board.

It's okay, I understand the wave differences fairly well.
That was my point, choose your board to suit the waves I ride. In fact these days I just describe the sort of waves I want to ride and my shaper chooses the dimensions and outlines and fin setup, to a large extent.

I pick up my stumpy little board next week, for exactly those conditions.
But the board I ride the most is a fairly well volumed 6'4" 2+1.

And I sold a 6' wide/flat 2+1 when I lived in Sydney because for the most part, it didn't suit the waves or the way I surfed.

stumpy little boards are useless for the most part for the overwhelming majority of surfers and conditions in sydney and the surrounds.

despite their 'volume' and 'foam', for down here - they're simply too small (short) to be able to get in early enough - so you're already behind the 8-ball from the get-go).

and, they're no good at being able to connect the dots up on waves down here that typically feature, flat-dead sections that you need to glide/link thru.

and they're no good at beating down fast-breaking-long-sections that need the rail-length and surface area to that gives you the projection, gallop-and-sprint needed to be able get across and beat your way thru sections that'll only closeout on you if you're not able to get past them.

you're 'down the line' game in sydney and the surrounds, is much more important and called upon, than it is anywhere up north, and SEQ. projection is more important than maneuverability down here. yes, a shorter/smaller board turns easier (more turns per wave). BUT, if you're not able to chase the full length of the wave down, then you're missing sections and loosing opportunities for linking-up-more turns anyway. plus,if you're already going like the clappers linking everything up, you're larger/sensibly sized board's gonna loosen up anyway. it's easy to throw a bigger board around when you've got speed and momentum up anyway.

surfing in sydney and the surrounds, can be like the 'art of turning semi-closeouts and closeouts' into 'actual good waves' that are makeable and workable. and all those small/stumpy little fart-beetle boards totally suck at that.

I find my tiny JD fits the wave better when it's under head high and decent shape/hollow than a midlength ( you know I love them ) or my fish ( it needs fast open faced waves IMHO ). I also find the wide tail/narrower nose gets me in much earlier than wide point forward boards. And once up and running, it turns much faster, and much tighter.

For the almost close outs you're referring to I agree and understand that, though I'm used to sectiony short beach breaks, and often with fat spots. Even in fat spots I find my tiny board still glides through them. So good it basically replaces my 9'1". Why surf my longboard and "trim" when I can actually turn the board?.

Mind you the crazy light weight has something to do with it I believe as well.

A million different variables I suppose.

Interesting......agree with the making shite waves fun analysis....so Hatchman what boards do you reckon do this biz in Syndey waves..give us you top 3 board types for typical Sydney, Summer, Autumn/Winter, Spring.

Davros wrote:Interesting......agree with the making shite waves fun analysis....so Hatchman what boards do you reckon do this biz in Syndey waves..give us you top 3 board types for typical Sydney, Summer, Autumn/Winter, Spring.

there's too many variables to simply peg it down to 'this board for that season'. meaning, i don't tend to just use 'one type of board' for a certain size range or conditions. i mix it up accordingly, and it's not just size that dictates, moreover it's 'how the wave is breaking' that dictates what board i'll take out. so instead let me give you my top 3 boards, and the run down on how each of them perform in various conditions.

6'6 x 20 3/8 x 2 5/8 Diamond Tail Bonzer:
this board has become the 'all seasons go-to' board.
size range: sweet spot is chest high to head and a half high, but handles knee high thru double overhead
wave shape: fat, bowly, barrels, peaky a-frame, or down the line sprinters, or closeouts. it accommodates all.
overall: great all rounder, paddle machine, early entry and loads of speed to burn. it's a bit more of a down-the-line board, than it is a top-to-bottom board. but still does both well. comfortable tight in the pocket, in the bowl/trough of the wave, and also hunts well on the high line. it's a very driving/carving sort of board. it projects thru turns (i.e.; it doesn't 'snap or waft' thru turns) but you can still get a punchy on-the-spot pivoting feel off-the-top with it. cuts-back like a charm.

7'6 x 21.5 x 2 3/4 Rounded Pintail Roundnose MidLength (mini-mal if you will)
this board is used mostly either in tiny conditions, or overhead conditions that feature long fatter/flatter faces and long drawn out sections you needs to link up. i.e; you're now drawing big arcs and figures eights over the entire length of the wave, where you simply need the rail-line to do that. also, if i just feel like cruising i'll use this board regardless.
size range: sweet spot is knee to shoulder high, but handles up to head and a half high well.
wave shape: it excels in down the line stuff, either barelling, bowly, or fat. it's a bit long in most peaky-aframe short-run stuff, simply because of it's size. but that said, i've still managed to be able to turn it pretty spontaneously and sharply in small wedgy/peak stuff.
overall: very versatile board. the glide of a longboard, without being 'too locked in and committed' (i.e.; you can still turn it and make quick adjustments when needed, and has the refinement (rocker, concave, fine rail line) that allows you to surf lines more as you would on a shortboard (it' nothing like a log/glider).

8'0 x 19.25 x 2 3/4 PinTail Gun.
everything/anything double overhead plus and beyond.

I've got a 7'6 NSP mini-mal in the shed that I lend to mates just starting out.

Would that fit your idea of an acceptable surf craft for the masses?

I've pretty much concluded the same, and I surf e suburbs sydney as my usual.
6'6 bonzer style / refined mini mal covers everything I'm interested in. Forget the 8'0 though.

Where's yr bonzer from iggnam?

I've been riding 2+1s and Bonzers in Sydney for a while and was keen to get that opinion Hatchman as I've put the cue in the rack for now as think they are better suited to different waves, but I will back on them when drive is required, maybe it's the swell we have had in the last 12 months but I've been living on a 6'4 quad fish hybrid and it seems to suit the waves you describe in Sydney.

What about for people 20 years younger and 20 kilos lighter than you? What would you fellas recommend?

HPS

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Animal_Chin wrote:I've got a 7'6 NSP mini-mal in the shed that I lend to mates just starting out.

Would that fit your idea of an acceptable surf craft for the masses?

NO. it's perfect for your 'mates just starting out'

philw wrote:Where's yr bonzer from iggnam?

it's 2nd hand. bought it off an RS member. shaped by nigel perrow. G & S brand

el rancho wrote:What about for people 20 years younger and 20 kilos lighter than you? What would you fellas recommend?

for you? early-mid 20s, approx 60kg, surfing SEQ and Northern NSW?
a HPS for the most part. longboard for when it's small (resin tint to match your beard), and a step up and/or gun for cyclone swells. And, i reckon that if i was living back up there, i'd be surfing exactly the above as my quiver again.



...epiligoue would be that people should be more spend less time being caught up in latest cnuting fad and hype, and more time finding out their own truth about what works for them. be more introspective and honest with yourself, and be willing to try out a whole/huge bunch of different boards until "you" find out what works for "you" and "your" circumstance.

great place for that type of wild experimentation is gumtree or ebay. there's a gazillion boards on there of all sorts and 2nd hand. so, you can buy and try and re-sell boards like mad on there without losing any money at all (potentially).

the very thought of a "board of the year" is just beyond my comprehension.

just a joke. I'm not early/mid twenties anymore and bit more than 60kg.

i've got a 6'6 flat rockered 2+1 with little glass on sidebites which works from waist-high to double overhead but you've gotta swap out the fins depending on the surf

For a 2+1set up; I Don't mind the look of those "Bear" fat arsed wombat boards for a general all rounder. Something like a 6'4 to cover knee high to head and a half. Seems to look pretty versatile.
http://www.bearsurfboards.com.au/Bear_S ... Retro.html

http://vimeo.com/77667560