Surfing With Slater

[Cpt.Caveman]

Over at Surfermag they have a whole segment of surfing tips written by Kelly Slater. Check it out:

http://www.surfermag.com/kelly-slater/

I haven't really learned anything useful from it yet because its all so analytical. Funnily enough I learned a lot more from the first read of Nick Carrolls book.

Maybe its just that Kelly thinks about surfing on such a different level to me, or maybe its something to do with conceptualising things in a way that other people can absorb and understand easily that NC is better at.

Anyhow, bravo to Nick, and I'll keep reading and thinking about Kelly's stuff to see if some gems pop up...

[Nick Carroll]

Ah KS is far sharper about this stuff than that series suggests.

It's just fcuken impossible to pin him down on it in print. He won't sit still on it for more than 20 minutes at a time...and you can't write strong material on that basis.

We were gonna do a book together on the subject at one point, but when I realised what he was gonna be like to work with on it I kinda lost interest.

Plus very few surf journos would have any clue about it anyway, so a lot of what he'd say to 'em would come across as gibberish. It's kind of like Einstein trying to explain the Special Theory of Relativity to Miranda Devine.

[oldman]

........ to Miranda Devine.

Again with the Miranda Devine reference?

You really do have feelings for her, don't ya Nick.

[Nick Carroll]

Yeah she's everything I want in a woman.

Sadly, while we have a similar background -- super gun journo old man, etc -- once Miranda found out about my my life from about 16 to 30 years of age, she wouldn't want anything to do with me. besides I'm not a catholic.

though I guess I could see it playing out in a sort of weird "Taming Of The Shrew" way

Back to KS. He'd be an incredible coach for a young surfer. Fcuken incredible. He's got so many lateral-thinking ideas about how to free your head up on a wave. Trouble is -- again he'd only be there for a half hour every two months.

[bumfluff]

Trouble is -- again he'd only be there for a half hour every two months.

Why is this Nick? Is it that he's not great at staying focused on one thing or is it that outside of comps, he's doing "other non-related surfing stuff" and just loses interest?

I hear he's often late to his comps too is this a similar thing?

Not bagging him or anything, maybe its just the way he is...

[Nick Carroll]

Well it's just hard to hold his attention on anything for too long, he has a restless mind and a wide range of interests, and has become accustomed to a life of constant impermanence. He travels relentlessly and has largely made his life a lesson in individuality -- in how to be himself, rather than how to be a part of something. This is a huge part of why he has become the greatest surfer ever, but it makes it pretty much impossible for him to work in a team, to collaborate over a meaningful period of time. In situations where he has appeared to collaborate with others, ie the books with Jason Borte and Jarratt or the movies ie "Letting Go", a huge amount of the slack has been taken up by the other party or parties involved. I'd be up for taking up that slack for a pure biographical piece, but for a collaborative effort like a surfing skills manual, fcuken no way, it's gotta be 50/50 or it's not worth doing.

[bumfluff]

Well it's just hard to hold his attention on anything for too long, he has a restless mind and a wide range of interests, and has become accustomed to a life of constant impermanence. He travels relentlessly and has largely made his life a lesson in individuality -- in how to be himself, rather than how to be a part of something. This is a huge part of why he has become the greatest surfer ever, but it makes it pretty much impossible for him to work in a team, to collaborate over a meaningful period of time. In situations where he has appeared to collaborate with others, ie the books with Jason Borte and Jarratt or the movies ie "Letting Go", a huge amount of the slack has been taken up by the other party or parties involved. I'd be up for taking up that slack for a pure biographical piece, but for a collaborative effort like a surfing skills manual, fcuken no way, it's gotta be 50/50 or it's not worth doing.

Yep this is pretty much the impression I get of him, he's a real drifter. If I had half the chance I would be the same.

Ive know world champions in other sports who have this similar lack of focus on one project or scene. I think it goes with the territory of living life at 200MPH.

[localbogan]

I think Kelly has the drive, commitment and necessary patience to write a good surf manual...just that he does not want to do it.
His passion is golf, not surfing. He is a 2 handicapper and apparently has put an enormous time and effort into it, way more so than surfing.
He just happens to be freakishly talented at surfing and paid very well to do it.
A 2 handicapper needs to put an extraordinary amount of work into their short game and putting, something that requires patience, perseverance and time.
After he won the Dunhill links with Simon Dyson he said that he is hoping to join the senior's pro tour when he turns 50.
Basically, I think he considers surfing a job and like every one of us is waiting for the day when he doesn't need to do it again.

[lovenutz]

genetics the guy is gifted too...
Massive feet - balance and traction
Double jointed back - extra rotation for longer bottom turns and extended angled reo's
Quick twitch muscle fibers - Seen the size of his calves?
Wide lined shoulders - Good balance...watch his patented wizard tail slides

on top of that he has good looks and, if the tour rumours are true, is apparently packing a "weapon"

PRICK!!!