salty wrote:Nic, what sort of training regiem did you have for that shit? How many hours per day do you do now?
I'm not sure it's so dificult to drop in to a beast than a baby, but I reckon it must be fitness that gives the confidence.
I think it's got more to do with the progression of your own surfing than simple fitness, like I surfed in HI for four winters or so before a real big rideable Waimea day came along and I had the board etc to ride it.
Sorta winding up the Molokai training now, just a few sessions a week, maybe one long one mixed in (like this arvo Long Reef to Palm Beach) just to stay loose and psyched. But I reckon it's no coincidence that a lot of the guys who charge Waimea these days are also paddleboarders in the HI summertime, it definitely feeds back into your confidence and water sense.
Revolution re size, hmmm, I semi chickened out of a full on closeout once, I think what a Hawaiian call woulda been 28 feet on that one? It was funny, there were people paddling up the face as I was paddling down and they dead set looked like ants! I'm glad I didn't catch the wave, there wasn't a way into it anyway, the thing was like an apartment block.
But have been fortunate enough to be in the right spot for a few in the 22-25' range, paddling into a wave like that is definitely the most exciting thing you can do in surfing. You really really have to want it, the whole thing is so ridiculously all out!
Boards for that are in the 9'6"-10' range, big sick looking pintails. Waaay easier than the boards the first big wave guys used to ride, back in the late 50s and early 60s, those guys were the real deal -- catching set waves knowing they were gonna wipe out! And not giving a s**t!