returning too shore
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returning too shore
ok...this is a biggie
when your finished your surf...on your last wave in...HOW DO U COMPLETE YOUR SESSION
do u go the big move...land it....jump too deck and boogie in
do u surf allthe way too the shore and jump off still standing
do u kinda just get washed up and feeble call for mommy
the last wave of a surf has some sort special scinficane i don;t quite get.....some i can go in on...no worries most happy....otheres...i paddle out well past dark/ deadline get work on time
cause it's not the wave i want go in on :?
anytakers
when your finished your surf...on your last wave in...HOW DO U COMPLETE YOUR SESSION
do u go the big move...land it....jump too deck and boogie in
do u surf allthe way too the shore and jump off still standing
do u kinda just get washed up and feeble call for mommy
the last wave of a surf has some sort special scinficane i don;t quite get.....some i can go in on...no worries most happy....otheres...i paddle out well past dark/ deadline get work on time
cause it's not the wave i want go in on :?
anytakers
you go surf with your brother and when after couple hours you start feeling like you've had enough you make a silent promise to yourself that you won't go in before he does, and you catch wave after wave after wave, keeping your eye on him the whole time and wondering how come he seems not to be getting cold or tired or bored, and the sun goes down and darkness falls and you keep catching waves, and there's a lull in the waves and you find yourself sitting out there bobbing about hardly able to see your bro anymore and wondering if that white thing is his board or you're starting to imagine things, and i don't know what you do after that.
Definitely have to get a good one in. You can't catch a rail, fill your sinuses full of water and then powerfully stride out of the water. You look and feel like a pelican.
Even if your last wave is a shutdown on a crappy day, a little reo off some broken foam, and then deftly sliding to your belly in one clean motion, sees you cruisng in on what probably is the longest and most enjoyable wave of the session.
You do a little el-rollo in the shorey to remind anyone who's looking (and yourself) that you're a master of your surfcraft, whip the leggie off with one motion, flick your hair back and you style up the beach like you are the shizzy.
Getting out of the water is truly something worth mastering. If you have to pick your way through razor sharp coral heads with deep holes ready to gobble up your ankles and shins...well that's a whole different story.
Yes, I've drifted off topic. But obviously i needed to get that off my chest.
Even if your last wave is a shutdown on a crappy day, a little reo off some broken foam, and then deftly sliding to your belly in one clean motion, sees you cruisng in on what probably is the longest and most enjoyable wave of the session.
You do a little el-rollo in the shorey to remind anyone who's looking (and yourself) that you're a master of your surfcraft, whip the leggie off with one motion, flick your hair back and you style up the beach like you are the shizzy.
Getting out of the water is truly something worth mastering. If you have to pick your way through razor sharp coral heads with deep holes ready to gobble up your ankles and shins...well that's a whole different story.
Yes, I've drifted off topic. But obviously i needed to get that off my chest.
"Stay happy and everything will be perfectly all right"... Jack Norris
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i have energy to jog home if it will stop the old (senile) woman naggingRevolution wrote:I like to go for it, no matter what. Which often has lead to broken things but more often pure stoke.
Cant go in on a soft wave, gotta be a solid one.
Oh and no jogging up the beach, cant stand pepople who do that... how the **** do ya have enough energy to jog home anyways
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Yeah definately need a good one in. Sets the tone for your whole day The way I like to end a sesh is if you get one that peels right through and gives you one last reo onto the sand and then the run up the beach. If you don't get a long one then anythings OK as long as you flair on the last turn. Can't forget to blow your snozz walking up the beach too. Preferably in front of old ladies or young kids
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smackthatlip wrote:Can't forget to blow your snozz walking up the beach too. Preferably in front of old ladies or young kids
Last wave can't be a dud; if possible go the lie down or the stay-standing-as-long-as-you-can-after-wave-has-disappeared; but looking composed as you walk up the non-existant sand on the sharp rocks is beyond me.
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Far out, rule one, don't decide you're going in till you're up and riding.
'Cause we all know, if you even THINK about going in while sitting waiting for a wave, you will burden that poor wave with the weight of your unholy expectations, and thus F**k It Up, or not even catch it because none of 'em are good enough.
Personally I always try to finish with some sort of lame-arse Duke stance or other stupid gimmick.
'Cause we all know, if you even THINK about going in while sitting waiting for a wave, you will burden that poor wave with the weight of your unholy expectations, and thus F**k It Up, or not even catch it because none of 'em are good enough.
Personally I always try to finish with some sort of lame-arse Duke stance or other stupid gimmick.
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If someone tried to molest me on the shoreline i would metamorphosise myself into a transformer and snap their wrist like a twig.Ric_Vidal wrote:Do you require a tug as well? Pasha Polka, where’s Larry!kreepykrawly wrote:After a long surf i usually do a Pasha Bulka. Beach myself and have a pee.
OK, I like to limp up the beach for a bit of sympathy, no one cares though.
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