Duckdiving Larger Waves
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Duckdiving Larger Waves
After scoring some great waves on Monday, but coping a few floggings trying to duck dive my 7 footer after months of ridin a 6'1", lookin for a few tips on duck diving larger waves. Have tried various techniques, found knees less successful as board more bouyant, feet better but more unstable.
Also wondering on dimensions of longer boards for Sydney big days, other boards 6'1" & 6'6" have same dimensions, 18 3/4, 2 5/16, but the 7' is 2nd hand so it comes thicker 2 8/16. Perhaps I'd be better comin down a few inches 6'10" and/or thinner.
Appeciate any thoughts. Oh, I not lookin at charge hell waves just around the 8ft range.
Thanks
Also wondering on dimensions of longer boards for Sydney big days, other boards 6'1" & 6'6" have same dimensions, 18 3/4, 2 5/16, but the 7' is 2nd hand so it comes thicker 2 8/16. Perhaps I'd be better comin down a few inches 6'10" and/or thinner.
Appeciate any thoughts. Oh, I not lookin at charge hell waves just around the 8ft range.
Thanks
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Re: Duckdiving Larger Waves
u don't like the 6'6 in bigger stuff :?Freestyler wrote: 6'1" & 6'6" have same dimensions, 18 3/4, 2 5/16,
sounds ideal
than just use your 7' on the really strong offshore days ( the extra size works great against a big wind)....or as a backup if u break the 6'6
p.s i have no idea how avoid getting work in duckdives...
i've been belted last 5 days in a row
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Freestyler for a good step up from your normal board in 4-8' Sydney surf just build in more volume, not more length.
Ie if you're riding 6'1" x those dimensions you mentioned, go up to 6'5" round pin with a little more foam under the chest, like 2 3/8", and similar marginal increase in width.
A 7'0" is too big for any but the most feral maximal Sydney beachie (ie big Nth Av in a 8'+ NE groundswell), and even then you can get away with less length than you think. It's more about paddling speed and a slightly chunkier mid range board will equal a slender longer board in that regard.
Me, I'm 74kg and ride a 6'1/2" x18 1/4" x 2 1/4", then go to 6'3" x 18 1/4" x 2 5/16" up to six feet plus. Then a 6'5" in 8' waves. Only bother with a 7'0" if I'm feeling like pulling a 1970s imitation or the bombie reefs are 10-12', and then it's a fair dinkum 7'0" : a 7'1" actually, 18 1/2" x 2 7/16", solid board with a fair bit of overseas big surf under its stringer.
Re duckdiving, god there's been a few threads on this matter, I'll spare you repetition, just go search the forum...but I will say it works to approach larger waves in exactly the same fashion as you do smaller ones. Ie don't back off, paddle fast into it, put the board down sideways, use your foot not your knee, and let the board do the work of resurfacing.
Ie if you're riding 6'1" x those dimensions you mentioned, go up to 6'5" round pin with a little more foam under the chest, like 2 3/8", and similar marginal increase in width.
A 7'0" is too big for any but the most feral maximal Sydney beachie (ie big Nth Av in a 8'+ NE groundswell), and even then you can get away with less length than you think. It's more about paddling speed and a slightly chunkier mid range board will equal a slender longer board in that regard.
Me, I'm 74kg and ride a 6'1/2" x18 1/4" x 2 1/4", then go to 6'3" x 18 1/4" x 2 5/16" up to six feet plus. Then a 6'5" in 8' waves. Only bother with a 7'0" if I'm feeling like pulling a 1970s imitation or the bombie reefs are 10-12', and then it's a fair dinkum 7'0" : a 7'1" actually, 18 1/2" x 2 7/16", solid board with a fair bit of overseas big surf under its stringer.
Re duckdiving, god there's been a few threads on this matter, I'll spare you repetition, just go search the forum...but I will say it works to approach larger waves in exactly the same fashion as you do smaller ones. Ie don't back off, paddle fast into it, put the board down sideways, use your foot not your knee, and let the board do the work of resurfacing.
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- The Mighty Sunbird
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Shit Nick. After 25 odd years surfing, I had never heard of that. Can't wait to give it a go now. You do learn something everyday.Nick Carroll wrote:Yes. If you tilt your board to one side, onto the nose rail, there's less surface area and thus less initial water resistance, thus you sink quicker.
Once down, turn the board so it's flat again, and it'll resist re-surfacing.
Yeh, sounds like the extra large board you were riding was actualy causing you problems out there.
Nick's comments re not needing to go as long in Sydney are spot on. A board that is too big can cause you issues. In fact i also noticed this in Bali this year. Guys just riding boards that were way too big, and gettin belted coz they could't duck dive.
Im pretty much the exact weight and height at NC. I ride 6'0 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4. On Saturday and Sunday I took out a 6'2 version of the same board, just with a rounded pin and slightly more foam distributed under the chest. I found it spot on.
On Saturday afternoon I tested a brand new 6'6 that was slightly thicker. I actualy found the extra foam and length caused me issues out there. And yes you had to use the old foot to get her under for a duck dive. Also I found myself having to contstantly cut back as the extra length meant I was eating up the best parts of the wave too quickly. Kind of like when you hook up with a hot chick when ur younger and its over much quicker than you would have liked. I found myself heading back to shore to grab my 6'2 again.
Nick's comments re not needing to go as long in Sydney are spot on. A board that is too big can cause you issues. In fact i also noticed this in Bali this year. Guys just riding boards that were way too big, and gettin belted coz they could't duck dive.
Im pretty much the exact weight and height at NC. I ride 6'0 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4. On Saturday and Sunday I took out a 6'2 version of the same board, just with a rounded pin and slightly more foam distributed under the chest. I found it spot on.
On Saturday afternoon I tested a brand new 6'6 that was slightly thicker. I actualy found the extra foam and length caused me issues out there. And yes you had to use the old foot to get her under for a duck dive. Also I found myself having to contstantly cut back as the extra length meant I was eating up the best parts of the wave too quickly. Kind of like when you hook up with a hot chick when ur younger and its over much quicker than you would have liked. I found myself heading back to shore to grab my 6'2 again.
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Thanks Natho, I headin to Bali in August and was also wondering about the big board over there after Monday's floggings. Must admit on o/s trips usually ride my 6'1" and occassionally pull out 6'6" for 8ft waves. Think will use same plan around Sydney and look for a slightly thicker 6'6" or 6'8" as a third board and let the 7 footer gather dust in garage.
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try your technique todaywhitey wrote:My approach to duckdiving the bigger ones is to let out a feeble squeel, dickdive as deep as I can, then hold on to the board wrapping myself around it...
The squeel is the key to success though
works well...once i got the high pitch of the squeel just right
and i've added too it whitey....as i surface....i time it soo i come up a little too early....than i kinda lose balance on my board....weight tooo far forward....so as the foam sux's me a good ten feet back i actually have the nose the board and my head under water...bum sticking up
i call it the turtle ...than i fall off the board....climb back on....squeeel....the process repeats
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