Konnichi Wa!

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Lucky Al
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Konnichi Wa!

Post by Lucky Al » Tue Mar 13, 2007 12:26 pm

The beachbreak down the end of my street turned on the other day! Usually on a Sunday it's jam-packed with surfers from Tokyo, Kawasaki, Yokohama, Chiba and a hundred other cities within two hours' drive. But not this time! This time it was just a handful of locals in the water for the entire afternoon. I videoed a bit before jumping in and getting some good ones, too:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 3998465055

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Post by Moby » Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:04 pm

Nice work but whats with the big fark off pile of rocks? :shock: Looks like they could provide a challenge :!:

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Post by Butts » Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:09 pm

Luck Al, nice footage :shock: Great coverage 8)

Looks very inviting, although a bit cold :wink:

Hope you got your fill :)

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Post by loco4olas » Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:23 pm

Al,

Some great waves.

Surprised at how the standard of surfing has improved amongst Japanese surfers-the goofy in the vid surfs great.

Care to tell where the spot is and what you're doing in Japan (PM if you want to keep it private)?

Matt

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Post by Lucky Al » Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:43 pm

I don't mind saying, Matt! I'm in Kamogawa, Chiba prefecture. Lived here on a Japanese Government scholarship since January 2006 and spent my time working on a video documentary about Kamogawa's surfing community. The scholarship runs out at the end of this month, and when I've left I'll sit down and try to make something watchable out of all my footage. I have an idea I might eventually be able to show it at the surf film festival they have in France every May - not this year, though. The goofy-footer in the clip is Toshihiro Sekiya, and the spot is right in front of his house. He can see it out his window, so he's always on it when it goes off (which is not very often) first. The 'big fark off pile of rocks' is a row of tetrapods! I have a lot to say about tetrapods, but I gotta run now. Meanwhile here's another clip from two weeks ago - also featuring Sekiya-san, as well as another great Kamogawa surfer named Naohisa Ogawa: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 4012&hl=en

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Post by the shackle » Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:51 pm

cold in the water up there at the moment al?

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Post by bro » Tue Mar 13, 2007 5:32 pm

I love Japan, the culture, the people, the food and the women, hmmm especially the women

Have only been there for trade shows would love to do a surf trip there some time soon

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Post by Sleepy » Tue Mar 13, 2007 6:23 pm

great stuff al!! loved the longboarder in the second vid. makes me wish i'd accepted a job there starting this month...

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Post by Lucky Al » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:07 pm

The longboarder's Ken-san, a real ripper and surf nut! When I said I had to run earlier, it was because I'd arranged to video Ken at work in his kitchen. He's a cook with his own little restaurant a couple hundred metres from Maruki, the spot in the second vid. Surfs every day big or small, in early mornings and mid-arvos between preparing for and serving lunch and dinner. Ken knows waves so well, he always catches more and rides longer and more smoothly than anyone - and not because he's on a longboard. The reason he only gets two waves in the vid is I came late, when it was time for him to rush to work - I know he must have got twenty good ones before that. If people ever pass through Kamogawa they gotta visit Ken's restaurant, Donya. Ken's always happy to meet and chat with visiting surfers, and he has a bunch of surf vids and mags for customers to look at while waiting for food to come, too.

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Post by Lucky Al » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:17 pm

The water's pretty cold - almost everyone in 5/3 and booties. But the water forty minutes' drive north is a lot colder - everyone in gloves and hood. Still farther north, they wear semi-dry and dry suits!

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Post by bc » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:58 pm

What's the backing song?

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Post by the shackle » Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:04 pm

Lucky Al wrote:The water's pretty cold - almost everyone in 5/3 and booties. But the water forty minutes' drive north is a lot colder - everyone in gloves and hood. Still farther north, they wear semi-dry and dry suits!
i'm hearing you. i spent three and a half years up in fu kushima. i never bothered with the ocean until at least may...........luckily there were plenty of other distractions, snow etc..........
Last edited by the shackle on Wed Mar 14, 2007 10:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Lucky Al » Wed Mar 14, 2007 10:48 am

not sure which track you mean, bc. in the first vid it's 'obeah man' by exuma, in the second there are two: 'miyabi' by agatsuma hiromitsu, and 'hot on the heels of love' by throbbing gristle. the sounds of agatsuma's shamisen put me in mind of a western, with gunslingers or swordsmen making their way to some ghost town to settle old scores or plan an impossible heist. i don't know what i was thinking when i used the other two tracks. there are people making interesting music here in kamogawa who'll let me use some things in the completed documentary.

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Post by the shackle » Wed Mar 14, 2007 11:01 am

the shackle wrote:
Lucky Al wrote:The water's pretty cold - almost everyone in 5/3 and booties. But the water forty minutes' drive north is a lot colder - everyone in gloves and hood. Still farther north, they wear semi-dry and dry suits!
i'm hearing you. i spent three and a half years up in darn. i never bothered with the ocean until at least may...........luckily there were plenty of other distractions, snow etc..........
oops i'm not sure where "darn" is, i meant to say Fu kushima :lol:
Last edited by the shackle on Wed Mar 14, 2007 10:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

fong

Post by fong » Wed Mar 14, 2007 6:17 pm

bro wrote:, the food and the women, hmmm especially the women
oh.... jap women drool....oppps mean food :lol:

our new defence partners....who would thought :shock:

i recken the sking b better than the surfing.....eh al :?:

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Post by Lucky Al » Wed Mar 14, 2007 7:19 pm

i don't know, fong. i've only been to the snow three or four times in my life, not yet in japan. certainly many australians come to japan just for the snow, but i'm stoked on the surf.

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Post by Lucky Al » Wed Mar 14, 2007 7:28 pm

this is from monday: a mysterious stranger appears in an idyllic setting where children play, and a shadow is cast across the land. the stranger changes shape and disappears, and the children continue to play as if humanity were not doomed and children everywhere could play in the same way forever...

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 5053&hl=en

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Post by the shackle » Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:42 pm

fukushima
Last edited by the shackle on Wed Mar 14, 2007 10:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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