The Perfect Wave.
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The Perfect Wave.
"If I could create the perfect wave, it be like a point break and then turn into a sandbar and go pass a river mouth, and then turn into like a reef break. It would constantly go throught all these changes, and then there might be a Jetty that throws a little wedge along it like .........."
Quoted from a current tour pro, anyone want to have a guess who it is?
Quoted from a current tour pro, anyone want to have a guess who it is?
- dammit__01
- Owl status
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Sounds pretty sweet but how about starting at 4ft and ending at 10ftandycumo wrote:mine would start out with a 10ft ouside peak before tapering down the line to about 8 ft with a fast sandbar type barrel before bowling around and fattening out a little into little bay now about 4-5ft and turning into a shark island slab ending in a crazy wedgy bowl! yeww!
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- Local
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fuck its great isnt it!?!?!Beaver wrote:i love getting in a barrel peaking at like 2-3foot then just building and bulding as you drive down the line picking up more and more speed, its the most insane feelng.
its even better when you think you are too deep then all of a sudden u get spat out with a beautiful steep bowl coming at you to whack!
probably only happend to me twice!
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
I would like a wave that started out around 4' plus on a flat rock reef platform, walled and rolled a bit then thickened and built to about 6' plus, squaring into a thick lipped smooth faced barrel...then flowed off into a clean long sandbar wall that might do a variety of things, maybe barrel, maybe just stand up and run ...then rolled into a SICK 4-5' rip bowl, wedging and turning all the way to a sand beach. The whole thing about 250 metres long, some waves just working the reef section, some just running into the rip bowl, and maybe one in 15 running the whole length. Side-offshore on the takeoff and turning a little bit more offshore with each section.
Either that or a 10-12' bombing reef wall into a heavy wedging barrel.
Both these could be rights or lefts. Who cares??!
Either that or a 10-12' bombing reef wall into a heavy wedging barrel.
Both these could be rights or lefts. Who cares??!
- kreepykrawly
- Owl status
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- regular
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Sat Aug 19, 2006 12:23 pm
- Location: Rags, Whanga Bar.
My ideal wave would be an A-frame peak over a flat reef bottom. Six foot on takeoff and just backs off that touch to let you backdoor into it from the other side. Barrel section obviously on takeoff then nice smooth shoulder for big roundhouse cutty. Then a nice long, steep four foot wall just begging to be spanked that runs for a good hundred metres before a nice closeout section over sand. Then to top it all off get into the nice rip running back out wide of the break. Getting all amped now! Pity it's 2-3ft howling southerly
I'm thinking a mirrored image point break with that 'sunset' look, perfect for the Kong/Chapman fade. A bowly inside that gets walled up as it wraps in, to flat out walls with tubes on the low. Follow it up with Nick's rip bowl into that shark island inside slabber-sonic end section. Each has it's pros and cons but over 8ft it's always linkable.
Obviously it's on a gigantic lazy susan that accomodates any wind and swell conditions.
Obviously it's on a gigantic lazy susan that accomodates any wind and swell conditions.
perfect wave's going to take me back in time to waves i didn't ride as well as i could have way back when i was young and headstrong but full of nerves - and i'll ride it well, waves i blew because of a poorly negotiated bump in the face or a leggie around my ankles - those things won't bother me this time, waves i rode for someone i thought was watching from the shore when i should have rode those waves for us - me and the wave, waves i watched from the beach but pussied out on paddling out into, waves i saw in mags and imagined myself riding, waves i dreamed, waves that are breaking somewhere tonight and no one's on them... and after all that it's going to turn into a dirty great rivermouth with a long train ride, short bus ride and fat local i'll have to fight and get punched out by on the beach before i can go for. i'll get couple unforgettable covers out of it, but i'll be unidentified - maybe the swollen jaw? the perfect wave i get won't be just for me in the moment i get it, but for everyone in all of time.
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