For what reasons do you surf ?
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For what reasons do you surf ?
I though it might get the stoke back into a few of us
To get away from life, for fitness, and the stoke. I'm no singer but until this summer, had a blast, even with stupid things like singing under my breath stuff like the song/music in Apocolypse now. Oh and sometimes the people you meet.
Last edited by Shaunm on Thu May 04, 2006 5:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- SuRf_CHiK_KT
- Grommet
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We got early openers down here so morning sess's are good tooJohnno wrote:Freedom......................
And a bridge to my youth .................. that is now becoming a distant memory .............
p.s A beer just tastes soooooooooo good out in The Beer Garden after a late afternoon session .........
I surf because.....
its peaceful: you get away from it all, even when there is 50 people on the peak, if you get a good one, you are the only person on earth and you're having the best time of your life.
it makes you smile, whether youve done half a snap on a 1 foot wave or caught a perfect barrel.
it makes you laugh, especially when a mate stacks it and when there is a guy swearing his bright red head off because he just can't seem to catch a wave.
it keeps you fit whilst doing something fun
it shows you your place in nature
it gives you respect for the ocean, the environment and people
its cheaper than most other sports and gives you so much more
you can sit and talk about 10 seconds of your life for hours on end and people who don't surf can't understand why
it can be scary as hell but you always come back for more
the feeling you get the first time all the way till the last time you caught a wave is unreal
even if you see someone else on a wave you can feel their happiness!
its peaceful: you get away from it all, even when there is 50 people on the peak, if you get a good one, you are the only person on earth and you're having the best time of your life.
it makes you smile, whether youve done half a snap on a 1 foot wave or caught a perfect barrel.
it makes you laugh, especially when a mate stacks it and when there is a guy swearing his bright red head off because he just can't seem to catch a wave.
it keeps you fit whilst doing something fun
it shows you your place in nature
it gives you respect for the ocean, the environment and people
its cheaper than most other sports and gives you so much more
you can sit and talk about 10 seconds of your life for hours on end and people who don't surf can't understand why
it can be scary as hell but you always come back for more
the feeling you get the first time all the way till the last time you caught a wave is unreal
even if you see someone else on a wave you can feel their happiness!
Bars open 24/7......................Shaunm wrote:We got early openers down here so morning sess's are good tooJohnno wrote:Freedom......................
And a bridge to my youth .................. that is now becoming a distant memory .............
p.s A beer just tastes soooooooooo good out in The Beer Garden after a late afternoon session .........
And flat days it can go off like a good day ........
Got like home brew ................
Last edited by Johnno on Thu May 04, 2006 8:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- charger
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its my life basically, if im not surfing im either checking it, reading about it or watching it....basically my life is my surfing, its the one thing in the world that i enjoy the most and i always know i have it there. 90% of my time and money goes in2 it.
its a release for me, its fun, its great place 2 spend time with my mates and it jst feels great...also good for the fitness
its a release for me, its fun, its great place 2 spend time with my mates and it jst feels great...also good for the fitness
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