Habit.
If you have broken up with a girlfriend and you feel really down and your heart is shouting Faaaaarrrk and your mates are trying to cheer you up but you can't cheer up etc because the habit of the last 1, 2, 5 or 10 years has suddenly dissapeared - you don't know what to do etc - aaaarrrgghhh!
Catch an amazing wave - and you still smile and feel bloody marvellous - regardless of what is going on in your life!
Words cannot describe the feeling of stoke. It is what it is - unexplanable joy, happiness and satisfaction.
I am walking down the aisle with a 6'6!
For what reasons do you surf ?
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You forgot to include "Why am I here? What is the purpose of existence? What is the meaning of Life, The Universe, and Everything?"swift wrote:Anticipation.............
That moment when your out the back and you see a set approaching and you know you're in position.
The thoughts start spinning through your mind, what is this wave going to deliver???What am I going to achieve on this wave? Will I make the drop?Can I do a better cutback than that one time at Lennox that's still etched in my brain???
It's really easy to forget the rest of the world exists when you are out there. As previous correspondents have suggested, surfing relaxes you (even when there's a bomb set bearing down, you wouldn't be anywhere else - well, maybe 30 meters further out to sea).
It's the only pastime I know where you can be alone surrounded by 50 people. Just you and your thoughts. Or you can share the stoke with your mates or the guy sitting next to you who you've never seen before. I can't understand why there is aggro in such a peaceful setting.
The only thing I get aggro about while I'm out in the line up is other people getting aggro when they should be chilling out.
And, yes, like others I tend to bore other people I know (non-surfers) with surf tales.
My job can be stressful at times but there's always the promise of some waves in the next couple of days to look forward to.
It's the only pastime I know where you can be alone surrounded by 50 people. Just you and your thoughts. Or you can share the stoke with your mates or the guy sitting next to you who you've never seen before. I can't understand why there is aggro in such a peaceful setting.
The only thing I get aggro about while I'm out in the line up is other people getting aggro when they should be chilling out.
And, yes, like others I tend to bore other people I know (non-surfers) with surf tales.
My job can be stressful at times but there's always the promise of some waves in the next couple of days to look forward to.
Shun, the guy I share a house with here in Kamogawa, is twenty-three and started surfing a year ago when he moved down after graduating from university in Tokyo. Shun has told me he started surfing because he wanted to become a surfer - that is, a person at once stoic and hedonistic, corageous and caring... and a person with a lot of free time. Shun has very basic surfing skills, but he goes for it and cops constant thrashings. Surfing, he has told me, makes him very happy. But two days ago he quit his job delivering papers at night because he'd finally saved up enough to get by in India for three months and Indonesia for three months, and he'd had enough of happiness: 'There is too much unhappiness in the world for me to be so happy,' he said. In two weeks he leaves for India, where he intends to study curry. Then he wants to travel the world making unhappy people happy by feeding them good food.
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Chamberess
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Agree with everything written in this thread but specifically:
(a) Personally, with my working hours, it would be criminal if I didn't surf. Although I bitch about almost two hours travel from nthn beaches to city (return) every day I don't start until mid-arvo and miss morning gridlock, afternoon school hassles. 8.30am weekdays just heaven. Kids have hit school and it's usually and hour or two early for the retirees, holidaymakers, daytrippers. More often than not, I've got the beach ... or at least, the break ... to myself.
(b) On an atavistic level, I'm a firm believer in the Aquatic Ape Theory. That's not to say I necessarily think mankind went thru some stage of sporting gills and flippers ... merely that he went thru a littoral-based period (maybe as opposed to a savanna one). I know for sure, I for one would rather swin out 50 metres and collect a bag of pippis than mix it with lions, hyenas and vultures squabbling over a zebra carcass. I believe the Omega 3 diet helped develop the grey matter as well as having to discern the time, tides, moon phases etc etc etc a coastal environment offers.
(c) Ego trip. I rip. I LOVE to impress people (even if it's only myself) with my undoubted talents standing on a deck of fibreglass.
(a) Personally, with my working hours, it would be criminal if I didn't surf. Although I bitch about almost two hours travel from nthn beaches to city (return) every day I don't start until mid-arvo and miss morning gridlock, afternoon school hassles. 8.30am weekdays just heaven. Kids have hit school and it's usually and hour or two early for the retirees, holidaymakers, daytrippers. More often than not, I've got the beach ... or at least, the break ... to myself.
(b) On an atavistic level, I'm a firm believer in the Aquatic Ape Theory. That's not to say I necessarily think mankind went thru some stage of sporting gills and flippers ... merely that he went thru a littoral-based period (maybe as opposed to a savanna one). I know for sure, I for one would rather swin out 50 metres and collect a bag of pippis than mix it with lions, hyenas and vultures squabbling over a zebra carcass. I believe the Omega 3 diet helped develop the grey matter as well as having to discern the time, tides, moon phases etc etc etc a coastal environment offers.
(c) Ego trip. I rip. I LOVE to impress people (even if it's only myself) with my undoubted talents standing on a deck of fibreglass.
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el gringo rattis
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