opinions about big surf...
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Beanpole
- That's Not Believable
- Posts: 68774
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
- Location: Button Factory
What freaks me out about novices in larger or harder breaking surf is that they are so focused on psyching themselves up to take off that they don't tend to look at who's paddling out, taking off next to them or what the wave is doing. Thats okay if theres room to move but in heavier surf there often isn't. Be aware in the water.
i duno youve jst gotta push yourself i think, its alrite with mates u can amp each other up.
if you dont go out there and push harder then u'll never improve, get out there and experience it..get pyschd up and jst charge it boys dont worry about the consequences
im hanging out for winter and sum solid lines!
if you dont go out there and push harder then u'll never improve, get out there and experience it..get pyschd up and jst charge it boys dont worry about the consequences
im hanging out for winter and sum solid lines!
hard to believe how nice it isscooter83 wrote:
Thankfully for me, it was pretty tiny, and not many people out at all...so after consulting my mark warren atlas, i thought i'd try spooky beach, a right hand point break about 1.5 years ahead of my skill level
smnmntl wrote:Matty.... surfers don't talk to each other in the water because many of them are secretly gay and just want to bum each other off.
What the fuck is your problem mate? I post a fucking story and you slam me for no reason?! It shows how much of a dick you really are with absolutely no life and shit for all brains that you cant post something fucking constructive rather than just payout someone. If you got a problem with me sunshine then pm me and stop filling these boards with useless posts showing the world what a prick you are...smnmntl wrote: 8 ft shorey at Coogee..... uh huh..... right.....
Never happened
You really are a cock head Bear
But fact is I am not a liar. It was about 5-6 years ago, bondi, bronte etc was closed out due to massive low off the coast, the sand banks at coogee were there but as we jumped out within a few hours it suddenly jacked up and catching a wave in was great fun but it was definately 8ft with those really cool sand churned waves.. i was bodyboarding with 1 mate and his 3 SURFING mates all whom agreed on size and one of whom who had to go to the dr with a massive cut on his head from a beatdown!
If its big just head down the road the Lerlaine(?) Bay.... there is a reef there on the south side which only handles big waves but handles them well!!!
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Nick Carroll
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
I was quite touched by Scooter's starting message, it reminded me that a big part of surfing is just being placed in awe of the ocean. Surf size affects everyone a little differently and we all take different views of it at different times during the surfing life-cycle. Yet whoever you might be, whatever your skill level, "big" is when you begin to tread lightly and in the full awareness of your human shrimpiness on this planet's vast face.
That's a great thing I reckon, not available to most humans these days.
As for flat spells, f**k you guys don't want to know where I've been for the past couple of weeks. It bloody wasn't flat that's for sure.
That's a great thing I reckon, not available to most humans these days.
As for flat spells, f**k you guys don't want to know where I've been for the past couple of weeks. It bloody wasn't flat that's for sure.
I've got a mate that is just panicky and nervous when it comes to big sets rolling out.. now what he calls big is like 4ft.
I see them and say yeah that may be a bit bigger than what we've seen lately but certainly not BIG.
If it's not closing out I really don't care how big it is I'll give it a berl. And even if it is I'll drop in and get smashed for the fun of it haha.
The biggest I have surfed would probably have been 5ft maybe 6 on the bigger sets but I'm really shit at judging these things about 2 months ago or so at palm beach. I just happend to be there and there looked like some nice waves.
I went in and overheard some dude who was ripping it up with his mate say it's been a while since he's surfed regular 5footers like this. So that was my only real judge of the size ... and the fact that swellnet said that narrabeen was clean 5ft that day... In any case I wasn't scared I just went out and charged it I got smacked up a couple of times but it wasn't anything I couldn't handle. Like someone already said. Beach breaks I'll go for no matter what... reefy's it's a whole different story.
I see them and say yeah that may be a bit bigger than what we've seen lately but certainly not BIG.
If it's not closing out I really don't care how big it is I'll give it a berl. And even if it is I'll drop in and get smashed for the fun of it haha.
The biggest I have surfed would probably have been 5ft maybe 6 on the bigger sets but I'm really shit at judging these things about 2 months ago or so at palm beach. I just happend to be there and there looked like some nice waves.
I went in and overheard some dude who was ripping it up with his mate say it's been a while since he's surfed regular 5footers like this. So that was my only real judge of the size ... and the fact that swellnet said that narrabeen was clean 5ft that day... In any case I wasn't scared I just went out and charged it I got smacked up a couple of times but it wasn't anything I couldn't handle. Like someone already said. Beach breaks I'll go for no matter what... reefy's it's a whole different story.
Yeah so what I live nearby too, Sorry it may not be considered a shorebreak to you, but it was 8ft in real terms.. You wanna use hawaii 8ft thats fine mate but sorry if im being a kook but im talking about seeing a surfer catching a wave and it being a good few feet above his head when he is standin straight.smnmntl wrote: Anyway, whatever. You keep spinning 'em Bear. I just couldn't let that one go without comment, living just up the road from your "8 ft shorey" zone.
I am not saying coogee gets like that every second day, it was a solid deep low when people like you claim they are catching massive waves but will actually be catching city harbour breaks that are like 3 ft. You dont believe me... FINE, but just drop it mate and stop looking like such an aggressive prick!
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matt...
- charger
- Posts: 878
- Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2004 3:31 pm
- Location: lurking around the sharktower carpark
when it's BIG, there is no escape route...principal skinner wrote:I dont mind it bigger as long as its organised with an escape route.
even at the Haven, you'd think that the deep pacific ocean to the north is an escape route....
nope...i've been out there when the sets swing wide, section up & proceed to cleanup everyone in the lineup in one wave, then devour everyone while we scrambled for our boards...
needless to say your guts are churning with butterflies, your mind spinning with adrenalin...and when you get a few good ones in a few hours, you are STOKED !!!
Know what you mean about the butterflies.
DY Point July '91: triple overhead and offshore. After watching for 45 minutes in the pre-dawn gloom and working out I could just sneak out under the first wave of the set if I timed it exactly right from kiddies corner (too hairy to rock off that day), I was about 50m short of my intended position when a cleanup set feathered on the horizon.
After browning the inside of my wetty, I only just snuck under the lip after sprinting for my life on my 7'2" gun and could hardly believe I'd escaped getting sucked back and over. Had to deal with another three of those before I was safe. After I punched through the back of the last one I heard these groans from behind. It was some guys on boogers who'd followed me out. They'd copped a drilling.
It was just me, these guys, and a bit later one more stick rider for the first hour. The first rock mafia just watched from the gallery and didn't paddle out.
Got 6 or seven bombs in that time and was completely stoked, and I escaped getting smashed. The sensation was like taking off from the roof of a moving block of flats.
The 7'2" flew.
DY Point July '91: triple overhead and offshore. After watching for 45 minutes in the pre-dawn gloom and working out I could just sneak out under the first wave of the set if I timed it exactly right from kiddies corner (too hairy to rock off that day), I was about 50m short of my intended position when a cleanup set feathered on the horizon.
After browning the inside of my wetty, I only just snuck under the lip after sprinting for my life on my 7'2" gun and could hardly believe I'd escaped getting sucked back and over. Had to deal with another three of those before I was safe. After I punched through the back of the last one I heard these groans from behind. It was some guys on boogers who'd followed me out. They'd copped a drilling.
It was just me, these guys, and a bit later one more stick rider for the first hour. The first rock mafia just watched from the gallery and didn't paddle out.
Got 6 or seven bombs in that time and was completely stoked, and I escaped getting smashed. The sensation was like taking off from the roof of a moving block of flats.
The 7'2" flew. Depends where you are surfing . you have to get out somewhere. When I said organised I mean not washing machine conditions. Although you often have to paddle through that to get to it.matt... wrote:when it's BIG, there is no escape route...principal skinner wrote:I dont mind it bigger as long as its organised with an escape route.
even at the Haven, you'd think that the deep pacific ocean to the north is an escape route....
nope...i've been out there when the sets swing wide, section up & proceed to cleanup everyone in the lineup in one wave, then devour everyone while we scrambled for our boards...
needless to say your guts are churning with butterflies, your mind spinning with adrenalin...and when you get a few good ones in a few hours, you are STOKED !!!
Hawkeye,
when your taking about wave sizes, does triple overhead refer to the size of the face? and if so, is the overhead part referring to a rough average of peoples height say 5.5-6 foot?
Whatever language u use, triple overhead sounds massive, and your story was gutsy! was that th best session of your surfing career? I haven't surfed the northern beeches before...i'm assuming DY point is a point break?
Good stuff!
when your taking about wave sizes, does triple overhead refer to the size of the face? and if so, is the overhead part referring to a rough average of peoples height say 5.5-6 foot?
Whatever language u use, triple overhead sounds massive, and your story was gutsy! was that th best session of your surfing career? I haven't surfed the northern beeches before...i'm assuming DY point is a point break?
Good stuff!
Wave sizes depend on the person these days. Some people will say 4ft waves and to other people those same waves will be like 7 ft.
I personally use the system of measuring the front(cause the measuring of the back is just stupid) and ill do what you said... a full grown man is c.5ft9 ish so a few feet less is 3 ft and a few feet more is 7-8ft...
Its bloody confusing!
But wave size i think generally matters just on the type of wave... 5-6 ft or whatever a beach break like tama or bronte or wherever is not to bad.
Where i get nervous is places like G Bombie or another reef nearby where it can just suck dry almost...Any major size on that or the carparks wave nearby and it gets the heartrate up a bit! But gosh damn it feels good if you score an awesome wave!
I personally use the system of measuring the front(cause the measuring of the back is just stupid) and ill do what you said... a full grown man is c.5ft9 ish so a few feet less is 3 ft and a few feet more is 7-8ft...
Its bloody confusing!
But wave size i think generally matters just on the type of wave... 5-6 ft or whatever a beach break like tama or bronte or wherever is not to bad.
Where i get nervous is places like G Bombie or another reef nearby where it can just suck dry almost...Any major size on that or the carparks wave nearby and it gets the heartrate up a bit! But gosh damn it feels good if you score an awesome wave!
i dont mind big waves if i have the right equipment-as in if i wanna ride a single fin gun after watching Litmus or Big Wednesday...and if one is available in my quiver i will be keen to go out if it is clean and nice
Other times the only guns available are a beat up 6'4 and 6'8 (for me they are good as i stand 5'7) and i will only go out if the local reefs, npt pool or Dy point are really pumping.
biggest surfed is Longy bombie when it was REALLY breaking.
Other times the only guns available are a beat up 6'4 and 6'8 (for me they are good as i stand 5'7) and i will only go out if the local reefs, npt pool or Dy point are really pumping.
biggest surfed is Longy bombie when it was REALLY breaking.
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