RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Surfing has always attracted more than its fair share of psychos. Some have been great surfers others have just been apprentice or fully fledges psychos.
Usually the guy who turns up in the big car with the new board and can't surf isn't a psycho. He may be a dork but he is only unintentionally dangerous.
The hard core local who lives only for his closely guarded local territory and thinks the rest of the world is encroaching on his world has real psycho potential. Obsessive behaviour, fanatical commitment, can't hold down a steady job,reckless, life threatening behaviour, risk taking. They might even smoke pot
They may go to ridiculous extremes of deprivation to find waves in dangerous places
Lets face it this is not normal behaviour

and you say all of that like it's a bad thing??!!

I could name a few local's that come under that list

but anyway local's are crap... nomad's are where it's at.. we just cruise around and get wave's.. and the only time that local's place is firing we rock up and have it to..

Beanpole wrote: Lets face it this is not normal behaviour

Since when.............even have a frame certificate to say I'm CcCrrAAzzEE.

Good call Carbon.

So what about the skinny bloke who's as quiet as a mouse until he hits the water and takes on the heaviest pits imaginable, then gets back to land and hits the bakery like nothing's happened?!?!

Is this behaviour culling other psychotic urges that the individual would otherwise pursue?

Makes you wonder... What if those school massacre blokes had taken up surfin some heavy reefies to get rid of their anger ay?

P.s Blokes that talk about themselves being crazy or think they are crazy aren't crazy. Their just tryin to make emselves feel bigger

Blokes that just do sh/t cos they feel like it are

Hay Searcher Surfing the roof of a HD holden panel van over the old Hawksberry River bridge at 100mph normal

Johnno wrote:Hay Searcher Surfing the roof of a HD holden panel van over the old Hawksberry River bridge at 100mph normal

MPH!!!!!!

dats crazy man!!

My old man and his mates used to tweak old Vaxhalls and the like and do 90mph down the hills around the gong... that didnt know what crumple zones were back then...

In the 1970's MP was an undiagnosed schitzophrenic. He smoked pot big time which probably worsened his condition. He was antisocial, inarticulate and a lunatic car driver. He was obsessive, especially about outsurfing everyone and winning surf contests.

And for a few years in the '70's he was clearly the world's best.

In MP's bio Terry Fitz suggests that had MP's schitzophrenia been diagnosed and treated earlier then MP may not have reached those great heights (and subsequent lows).

It makes you wonder.

Guaranteed many surfers invest things in their relationship with the waves that they can't or won't find a home for anywhere else.

It's no coincidence, for example, that all but two of the world pro champions (men and women) since 1976, and a sizeable majority of the high pedigree performance surfers through the period, came from broken or disrupted family backgrounds.

In the end this kind of emotional investment has its limits. Try as you might, you will not get the ocean or the waves to talk back or respond to you in any way at all. Nor will the ocean have your children, nor look after you in your old age.

MP was an extreme case -- his schizophrenia, his drug use, and his bizarre family background made it all but impossible to grow up. But a similar battle awaits almost all brilliant surfers at some point -- they have to learn how to be human, how to fully relate to other humans instead of waves.

It's a tough one and I'm sure we can all think of a few people who haven't made it through the process unscathed. Grumpy old hardcore locals are just one type. One difficulty the Grumpy Local faces is that he can't seem to see other surfers as humans; instead, they're seen as ill-defined threats.

(Which is a roundabout way of saying: Don't bloody come out the Peak! )

Nice load of shit u wrote there...

robh wrote:Nice load of shit u wrote there...

agree

Nick thats better than wanto's cell phone joke..................

Mate I like a laugh.................. thanks.

2.30am - July 15th 1998 - The Bulli turnoff - Two 'Gong locals speed skate the length of the strip from the top of the hill to the truck escape - on both sides of the road - nobody dies -

laz

Always good to post a sensationalist topic I reckon
MP is an obvious example but then how about Keith Paul?
That guy could surf
Locals who think its okay to rip off everyone because they surf their waves?
I hate to mention Martin Bryant but the guy used to surf too
Nicks right on the money as far as I'm concerned.

Martin Bryant used to drive around in an old mercedes with a board bolted to the roofracks.

Not a particularly good example.

I guess he must be a pseudo surfing psycho then.