RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 31, 2019 12:15 pm

Wasn't Mark Foo in a comp at Mavericks when he drowned?

He was free surfing.

Although from an outsider's perspective he often seemed to be not free surfing. If that makes sense.

I almost died in that Phillip Island comp I reckon

Lucky Al wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 31, 2019 12:17 pm

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 31, 2019 12:15 pm

Wasn't Mark Foo in a comp at Mavericks when he drowned?

He was free surfing.

Okay. Maybe they just held the comp soon after he carked it.

Mark Foo died in 1994, five years before any contest was held there.

Typical....knowledgeable surf journo correcting my dubious assumptions with detailed facts.

There was a slightly curious article on the guardian website about concussions in surfing. Apparently surfing’s culture “encouraged risk-taking behaviors and the denial and downplaying of the injury” and, ooh, “traumatic head injuries in surfing are the shadow amid the sunshine”. So there

I reckon I've had a half dozen concussions from whacking my head on the reef.

I reckon I’ve only had two concussions. One after falling off me BMX the other ice skating

How does the Guardian know anything about surfing?

Maybe they just mean surfing in Cornwall, I hear that’s a fcuken roll of the dice every day you paddle out

I’m reading that in the choked and panicked voice of the journo who knows he’s been scooped