RealSurf Surfers' Forum

uncannily accurate.
Al, Yuke, either of you blokes have a knife sharpener?

i have on the kitchen counter and use it almost every day. looks like this:



the ladies in our kitchen in the village sharpen their knives on a stone like this:



they know their way around knives much better than i do. it's a fishing village after all.

our pipe masters thread is really lurching drunkenly now.

finally found the one i was looking for, a young rizal tanjung - charging!

Thanks Al, cheers. Careful of handling anything sharp til morning.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:56 am

Looks steep as fk. Nick - in say the 6-8 foot range - in terms of criticality- how does banzai pipe compare with redsands or cowries in SH ? Because that’s proper heebie jeebies surf.

ha ha ha it's a complete other level. When it's being itself, Pipeline doesn't just pitch, it lurches and twists at the same time. Much much bigger, heavier and more intimidating than Reddies etc

But you can learn it like any other wave.

Lucky Al wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 3:05 pm

finally found the one i was looking for, a young rizal tanjung - charging!

That's my favourite ever cover I worked on. We got that sequence and went Hmm, one shot isn't doing it here. Then we went, but if we do a sequence, then we will fcuk it up with coverlines. Then we went, What if we just ditch the coverlines? I was getting the New Yorker home delivered back then and they would do a sort of flap on top of the actual cover, with all the stuff written on it. So I somehow talked the publisher into letting us do that.People could buy the mag and rip the coverline flap off and just have their special pure cover. Subscribers just got the mag, no flap. Surfer couldn't copy it because they were hard-bound, with the squared off spine, whereas we were saddle stapled, so we could do it. Ha ha ha!

Lucky Al wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 1:03 pm

cranked why are you posting pictures of chopes in our pipe masters thread? you're ruining the vibe man.

Sorry Al. I was trying to find a good pic of someone being lip-launched at pipe to post, but saw that and got distracted.

so you were the editor then, nick. i interviewed rizal and switra a few times when i was there working for the indo surf mag surf time and they both talked about that day and that wave a lot. it meant so much to them both but of course especially to rizal, a young indonesian surfer dreaming of becoming and striving for years to become a great surfer, for him to be on the cover of surfing mag and get that recognition in the world of surfing. i shake my head and get a lump in my throat every time i think about it.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 6:39 pm

Lucky Al wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 1:03 pm

cranked why are you posting pictures of chopes in our pipe masters thread? you're ruining the vibe man.

Sorry Al. I was trying to find a good pic of someone being lip-launched at pipe to post, but saw that and got distracted.

no worries cranked it's on now we're going free-style with this one!

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 6:15 pm

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:56 am

Looks steep as fk. Nick - in say the 6-8 foot range - in terms of criticality- how does banzai pipe compare with redsands or cowries in SH ? Because that’s proper heebie jeebies surf.

ha ha ha it's a complete other level. When it's being itself, Pipeline doesn't just pitch, it lurches and twists at the same time. Much much bigger, heavier and more intimidating than Reddies etc

But you can learn it like any other wave.

Think I’d pass. Unless it was like 4 four and huge full tide

I spent about 3 days watching Pipe and decided that for someone of my ability it was effectively a closeout.
I went and surfed Chuns with a bunch of 8yos.

There was a high surf advisory at the time, and nobody at all in the water at Pipe.

The WSL tweeted a good photo the other day by Kirstin Scholtz, official photographer of the WSL.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 9:38 pm

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 6:15 pm

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:56 am

Looks steep as fk. Nick - in say the 6-8 foot range - in terms of criticality- how does banzai pipe compare with redsands or cowries in SH ? Because that’s proper heebie jeebies surf.

ha ha ha it's a complete other level. When it's being itself, Pipeline doesn't just pitch, it lurches and twists at the same time. Much much bigger, heavier and more intimidating than Reddies etc

But you can learn it like any other wave.

Think I’d pass. Unless it was like 4 four and huge full tide

that's why that whole teahupoo/ pipe debate for the heaviest wave is a crock. i've surfed 4-6' pipe ... and it breaks hard, fast and backless at that size. i got to my feet three time and then was carted over the handlebars. i wasn't even in the ballpark of getting barrelled out there. haha

where teahupoo under 6 foot is actually a playful wave. easy to get in and out of.

i was on the beach on that 6-8 foot swell when Malik died. after watching that, i get a lump in my throat when pipe is 12 foot and guys wipeout.

Is it the worlds most difficult paddle in wave? Yes I know you can paddle into big waves ala Mavericks and the footage of No Kandiu is amazing, but big Pipe on a tricky swell angle the zenith?

ha ha Teahupoo under six foot pretty much cut Keala Kennelly's face off.

all these spots have different moods, like anywhere, Pipe has a lot more different moods than Teahupoo because it's exposed to a much wider array of conditions and swell types. It'll look like a closeout one day and perfection the next, then terrifying the day after that. That's why you get such committed crews through the generations -- surfers who basically live for it. It's super engrossing in quite a different way to say Sunset, where the lineup is a lot bigger but the moment to moment rush of being out there is less intense. If you learn Pipe, take your beatings over a couple of winters, work out your quiver and you're there on its best days, it changes your life forever. It's probably a lot harder to do today because there's so many people in line.

Thud wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 14, 2017 10:07 am

Is it the worlds most difficult paddle in wave? Yes I know you can paddle into big waves ala Mavericks and the footage of No Kandiu is amazing, but big Pipe on a tricky swell angle the zenith?

no way, places like Jaws at size are way harder.

No wonder Kelly respects Shane Dorian so much.

The guy who owns Surfection at Mosman told me a funny story about surfing with Shane Dorian. Reckons he was paddling for his life to make it over a 15ft wave, Shane Dorian was next to him. As he was about to scrape over the top of the wave Shane Dorian turned quickly and made a drop impossible to most humans. He tells the story well like it was yesterday.