When does a surfer die?

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Larry
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When does a surfer die?

Post by Larry » Mon Feb 16, 2004 8:23 pm

At what age does a surfer lose his place in the lineup?

- and why?

- and do us a favour here, bracket your age after your opinion (59)

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marcus
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Post by marcus » Mon Feb 16, 2004 8:27 pm

never, the stature in the line up should improve with age, when i am 98 im going to burn everyone (28)
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Oscar Wilde - "I am not young enough to know everything"

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_cant_touch_this
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Post by _cant_touch_this » Mon Feb 16, 2004 8:38 pm

as long as someone surfs the place consistently, they should never lose their place (15)

random
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Post by random » Mon Feb 16, 2004 10:43 pm

I think more than age it is the loss of fitness, agility and ability. to give a number id say late 30's. (obviously there are exceptions who dont lose fitness til early 50's)

(21)

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nubby
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Post by nubby » Tue Feb 17, 2004 2:00 am

when they are dead and buried........cause all the surfin they have done in thier life is still swirlin round in thier heads, and personaly, they would still feel a part of it and part of them will always be a surfer. no matter how long ago it was they stopped surfin. you know that feeling when you get to a spot you havnt been to in years, but you have had so many good sessions and great times there, that it still feels familiar and you feel like you never left......well i spose it would be like that everytime the just get near the ocean.......like my bro broke his back, and they said he would never walk again, but he never stopped thinkin of himself as a surfer......and like i wrote on another thread, a decade after his acco, he was gettin stand up backside tubes at oz pipe on his first surf in 10 years!!!!!! i reckon once you have got the bug in your head, your place will ALWAYS be in the ocean......

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spotty
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never

Post by spotty » Tue Feb 17, 2004 6:32 am

Where i come from, older surfers do get more respect, (provided they are real locals, not born-agains). When i am 70 i want to smoke every fool on the beach cause life really is too short by then. :twisted:

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hammer time
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Post by hammer time » Tue Feb 17, 2004 9:05 am

agreed. older surfers should be given more respect.

i don't think surfers are really gone until they are gone> dead.

there is this guy at cronulla who must be about 90 or more, and he's now goin hard on the bodyboard. when he paddles for one i give him a push.
so there you go boys.

Larry
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Post by Larry » Tue Feb 17, 2004 10:04 am

I want more stuff here please - (and that was a bloody good read nubs) - so get cracking you slackarses

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Morgan The Moon
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Post by Morgan The Moon » Tue Feb 17, 2004 10:30 am

Check out the Magoo Charity Classic on the Central Coast - named after one of the clubs oldest surfers (who's in his seventies).

The guy still gets his quota of 10 waves in a 20 minute heat, competes with the A-graders (some of who are about a 3rd of his age) and can still give as good as he gets.

Do I think he should still be out there - kin oath!! Just goes to show that age isn't a factor and gives me something to look forward to when I'm his age (34).

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matt...
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when does a surfer die?

Post by matt... » Tue Feb 17, 2004 10:32 am

does a surfer die at all ?

the more famous surfers will still live in memories, print & film media long after they're gone.........

us mere mortals will still remain in the memories of fellow surfers, friends & relatives.

my dad is 64 & still surfs at Manly at least 4 - 5 times a week. He rides a mal & only likes a small swell, but he is still out there...

i am 34 & still get my fair share of waves at n.avoca & the haven, when it fires...

i swim regularly to help maintain my fitness.

my brother is 29 & is still carving at n.steyne.

we've been getting waves all our lives & haven't had too many problems in the lineup. :D

the only thing that pisses me off is when boogers use their flippers to beat me to an appraoching set wave !! :twisted:

michael perry
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when does a surfer die? NEVER!!!

Post by michael perry » Tue Feb 17, 2004 11:34 am

When does a surfer die? NEVER!!!!
Once its in your blood, your hooked.
Even when the body gives up the ghost, you can still go out for one last session, just scatter your ashes in the ocean and ride the swells for an eternity.
Before that, just surf to the best of your ability, that's all you can ask of yourself. If it takes blood, sweat & tears to be fit enough to do it, then just do it, no complaints. When you snag a clean peak, take a late drop, carve down the line and flick off, its then you realise how lucky you are to be a surfer, especially as you get older.
As for place in the line-up, I''ve been through so many changing of the guard line-ups its irrelevent these days. Just surf well, show respect and the waves will come.
For the record, I'm still ridin a 6'2" swallow and having the time of my life. (46)

Surfchaser
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Post by Surfchaser » Tue Feb 17, 2004 12:08 pm

I'm with marcus :D !

- SC

buzzy
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Post by buzzy » Tue Feb 17, 2004 1:25 pm

Agree with Michael's comments about the changing faces in the lineup. Who cares about that. People come and go. Just respect the ocean and other surfers and you should do fine.

As for me, my interest in surfing has waxed and waned since I first took it up 25 years ago :shock: . I'm ok with that. While some people are blessed to be constantly excited about the same thing decades on end I have a shorter attention span. I'll always surf, just sometimes I'll let a few weeks go by when I don't do so in my less interested periods. So I guess during those periods I die, or at least become comatose, but then you are revived. I don't know if that answers the question but I figure you can surf as long as you want. I don't really care what the current group of self proclaimed "locals", who usually come from somewhere else anyway, think. (38 )

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schnorky
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Post by schnorky » Tue Feb 17, 2004 1:46 pm

All those old blokes hanging round the beach with their skin-matching,
de-elasticised speedos, scaring the young mums, swimming the beach with goggs at a ponderous rate, giving whiting reports to the fishos, bluey reports to the surfers. These are the old surfers that never moved up and down the coast to extend their surfin'. Theyre not going anywhere....I'll be right behind em....in another 20 years (nigh on 50). I know I can never leave.

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Chonie
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Post by Chonie » Tue Feb 17, 2004 1:47 pm

When the buzz is lost and you feeling nothing when u go to the beach.
Doesn't matter how fit or not you are, if the passions gone....

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chrisb
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Old surfers never die

Post by chrisb » Tue Feb 17, 2004 1:55 pm

Old surfers never lose their place in the lineup..........

"As long as there's an ocean and a strong and steady wind
I'll sail the seas forever, no land can lock me in".

whackenauffe
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Post by whackenauffe » Tue Feb 17, 2004 1:58 pm

you can still go out for one last session, just scatter your ashes in the ocean and ride the swells for an eternity.
just an amusing little side note. We had the intention for my grandfathers scattering of his ashes. Me and my uncle took the ashes out on his boat to my grandfathers favourite fishing spot. We were emptying the ashes out when a flock of seagulls came and took what they could. It was quite funny and i think the old guy would prefer to go out in a humerous situation. kinda like a testiment to his life.
cheers david

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