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Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 4:13 pm
by Trev
Braithy wrote:
offshore1 wrote:How does it work? Anybody know? That's a pretty good manmade wave.

fairies and elves, little buddy. fairies and elves.
Peddling like crazy under the sides.

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 4:20 pm
by offshore1
That's pretty dry and technical, any way to dumb it down to layman's terms?

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 4:31 pm
by channels
On Beachgrit, they have a screenshot of Slats in boardies in the barrel. So questioning when the vid was actually shot.

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:19 pm
by The Mighty Sunbird
Maybe it's all a cgi hoax

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:34 pm
by Wubic Pig
offshore1 wrote:That's pretty dry and technical, any way to dumb it down to layman's terms?
I'm guessing an underwater boat shaped hull on a track driven electrically and they'll whack up some solar/wind farm to offset the gunk. A nuclear wave would be cool - decahexadronical overhead.

Anyway I just can't get my head past jumping on it just the once on an old school coolite and just stall, trim, stall, trim and so on and so on...

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 11:30 am
by surfresearch
A few initial thoughts...
1. An outstanding technical development- a perfect artificial hydrodynamic wave.
2. According to Ted Spencer (1970), the size is perfect: a 6ft wave- a 6ft board - a 6ft rider.
3. Length of ride is most excellent at round 30 secs and +100 yards or metres?
4. If you are going to build a perfect shaped 6ft wave, Bruce's thin-lipped Beauties is not a bad place to start; with maybe also a touch of Rincon, or Broken Head, or even a nod to small Honolua Bay.
5. Glad I am not a goofy-foot.
6. If another one is built, it could/would/should be a looking-glass version of the "real" one.
7. Its value as a contest venue is unknown, someone will probably try it and we will see what happens.
8. It has some potential for developing and testing surfboard designs, and probably more valuable than anything done so far by tank testing.
9. Its value as a "fair-ground attraction" is likely to be considerable.
10. In 2015, based on his (ongoing) contest record, Kelly Slater's status in surfing history; indeed, in the history of competitive sport; is assured. In the very, very long term, this development could conceivably rank alongside his already significant contribution.

And just a couple of questions:
1. How do they do it?
2. Do I have to paddle back out?
3. Can the wave height be varied?
4. Can the rate of peel be varied?
4. How many minutes between each wave?
5. Is the location affected by the local wind conditions- is it possible for it to be onshore?
6. Water temperature?
7. What happens if, unlike Kelly, I don't make it out of the barrel, or land the air?
Geoff

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 12:16 pm
by foamy
I don't think it is really peeling. Narrow pool. The curl is not really moving across the wave. It looks like it is with the camera angle. The first shots of the unridden wave better show that the curl is pretty stationary. You can also see that from the angle of his surfboard when he is in the tube.

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 12:41 pm
by shaunmorrison
foamy wrote:I don't think it is really peeling. Narrow pool. The curl is not really moving across the wave. It looks like it is with the camera angle. The first shots of the unridden wave better show that the curl is pretty stationary. You can also see that from the angle of his surfboard when he is in the tube.
If the curl is stationary, does that mean I dont have to paddle back out?

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 12:54 pm
by foamy
Ha, ha. The wave is moving down the pool, just not peeling across the pool. You'd be walking back. I imagine the wave angle is a bit slanted, i.e. not perpendicular to the side of the pool, which would give the water flow into the wave a bit of the illusion of lateral movement.

In ocean waves for surfing, a peel angle of about 45° is considered ideal, 60°is slow, 30°is really fast. If you want a long pool wave ride, the costs would mean you wouldn't want to be designing a pool as wide as it long.

This is the wave pool.
Image

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 1:09 pm
by tootr
Apparently its an old artificial water skiing lake they bought and rejigged. I bet dollars to donuts this is just their test facility bought on cheap land far from prying eyes and the final design is yet to be revealed.

I can think of a point break that sort of breaks like that.

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 2:01 pm
by shaunmorrison
It's next to a golf course, I bet Kellys got his own hotted up golf buggy to drive back up to the take off area.

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 2:35 pm
by foamy
Or even better, as Kelly did, have the unofficial king of Teahupoo, Raimana Van Bastolaer, there on tap to taxi you on a jetski.

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 2:43 pm
by alakaboo
Ron the energy required increases as a square of the height.

Looks to me that they have wavegarden-type contouring but Webber-style wave generation.

There was a company a few years back in New Jersey that had a technology that looks like it could fit the bill. The Inertia did a story on it I think.
If I was on a PC I'd have a dig around some satellite pics. Surprised none of the internet sleuths have access or maybe just too wise to post up.

Brown water suggests big issues with turbulence after each wave, but it's a beautiful thing.
Like fake tits, it isn't my cup of tea but it grabs your attention.

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 4:59 pm
by still here
So does a perfect wave improve your surfing ..... or does growing up in mushy E coast USA do the trick .
Damn... it looks good .

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 7:54 pm
by alakaboo
Yeah the trees look like tannin producers but the high shot with the wider tail board makes me suss.

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 8:57 pm
by streetdaddy
Trev wrote:My thought is that in a contest arena it would be much harder to judge. The sameness of the wave would mean most competitors would be pulling the same manoeuvres so the judges would be looking at some pretty fine lines to award points..
If one of these designs gets to scale far enough that it's a financially sustainable enterprise, then it's inevitable that the 'random' nature of real-surfing will find its way into the equation. Imagine an articulated, programmable, pool bottom. In one scenario, surfers have random wave sequences thrown at them, to relieve the boredom of endless ho-hum perfect spitting kegs :roll: . In another scenario, competitive surfers load in their own pre-programmed sequences and dazzle the spectators with a carefully choreographed, and impeccably executed performance of man vs wave. Eventually, if money is no longer a barrier, just imagine what kind of wave riding experiences could be artificially created that surpass anything nature has created in hundreds of millions of years of planetary evolution. I remember scribbling up some unreal setups in the back of my maths book, maybe they'll actually become a reality now?

I wonder if I'll still prefer scrambling over a rock wall, slicing up my feet on barnacles, only to be greeted with cross-shore wind slop...

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 10:39 pm
by Trev
Street daddy, your sig doesn't work anymore. ;)

Re: Kelly's wave.

Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 10:09 am
by Drailed
streetdaddy wrote: In another scenario, competitive surfers load in their own pre-programmed sequences and dazzle the spectators with a carefully choreographed, and impeccably executed performance of man vs wave. Eventually, if money is no longer a barrier, just imagine what kind of wave riding experiences could be artificially created that surpass anything nature has created in hundreds of millions of years of planetary evolution
:lol: