Favourite type of surf?

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chrisb
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Favourite type of surf?

Post by chrisb » Mon Aug 31, 2015 11:28 am

Nick said that last week was really good for surf. However where I surf, which is not too far from Newport, I did not enjoy last week's fast crunchy beachbreaks. Horses for courses I suppose.

I think this topic was covered years ago but with many different forum members today it's probably now a good time to ask again, what is your ideal wave?

For me it's a 2 foot to 5 foot right-hand point break, sand bottom, smooth easy takeoff, preferably with no close-out sections but fast enough to get speed and do cutbacks. What Cape St Francis used to be like in the 1960's, and what The Pass is like today. Judging from the crowds at the latter I think I have the majority agreeing with me. :lol:

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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Aug 31, 2015 11:36 am

Six to eight foot grinding groundswells with only three people out.
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

aaarating
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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by aaarating » Mon Aug 31, 2015 12:41 pm

As long as its offshore brushed and No more than 1 large great white shark in the water at the time.

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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by channels » Mon Aug 31, 2015 12:46 pm

There is a wave in WA which I still dream about. Has to have the right sand build up and needs a bit of swell..... roll in take-off, nice wall for 2 or 3 turns before speeding up for a nice hollow section. Surfed it a lot in my early 20's and it is absolutely linked to that time in my life. Part of the memory of the wave takes me back to a life with a lot less commitments and pressures.

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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by alakaboo » Mon Aug 31, 2015 12:51 pm

Those lefts you get on the first day of a 4-6ft NE swell after a week of medium size southerly swells, when the sand is packed in and the rip channel is ruler-edged.
The ones where you have to get in super deep and pump twice then lock in. On higher tides you can bank off the top a couple of times before the fast section.

Matticus' local does a great version.

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scot
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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by scot » Mon Aug 31, 2015 1:40 pm

The waves that I really enjoy are those that have a wedge to them that you can backdoor the section from the takeoff and get lots of speed.
Waves like Mystics, Rebounds (tassie), Iluka breakwall and even off the wall at dbah at times.

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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Aug 31, 2015 2:05 pm

South Straddie would be on my top three.

Any wave that has you turning, but only to wash off speed for your next barrel on the same wave pretty much ticks all boxes.
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Beerfan » Mon Aug 31, 2015 2:07 pm

I just like waves that hold up for a while, especially sucky beachies that keep on going. Mind you, I've surfed two or three times this year so I'm really not fussy at this point, happy with small clean anything.

My all time fave beach when it gets a left hand bank back into the more common right as well


Mystics in the pre dawn solo is pretty sweet. Been a long time since I've done that.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Aug 31, 2015 2:20 pm

Not in my top three, but over the years I've also grown a soft spot for the double overhead plus days at South maroubra.

Deep water bombie style peak on take off, that steepens and magnifies on the drop, then hits the inside bank, and grinds down the line like a stream train.

Unfiltered raw swells, hard driving, hard on rail surfing, when the water feels alive.
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Trev
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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Trev » Mon Aug 31, 2015 2:32 pm

Well, growing up on the southern end of the Goldie, obviously sand bottomed right hand points are my thing. Snapper, Greenmount, Kirra and The Alley.And I've never really changed from that, despite a 15 year hiatus from about 1970.
Although, to be honest, I probably have changed a bit. My favourites since moving to Sydney have been right hand point waves over a rock bottom - The Bower and Dee Why. Then, after coming home it's been Moffs and The Bluff. Both right handers over a rock bottom.
I do enjoy some of the faster, more hollow beachies up here but have always had a preference for longer, slower waves where you can get into the groove and go with the flow.
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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by foamy » Mon Aug 31, 2015 2:56 pm

I like waves that are either really long or really short.

For long waves, the Qld points, head high, on the great days.

For really short waves. I really like a strong offshore wind and a peak that stands up and throws hollow onto the flats. Take off and drop straight into a wide barrel, maybe only a 2 to 3 second tube and out onto the shoulder and into the channel. 10 seconds later you are back in the take off zone. Simple. I have had some great sessions with just a few guys. The peak might only be on for an hour or two. You just get so many waves. You get it so wired, it is relaxing and thrilling simultaneously. Hard to beat.
I can see why so many of the top pros love The Box. It is a steroided version of that.

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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Almighty God » Mon Aug 31, 2015 4:26 pm

All of the above...except for the triple overhead...I am not man enough for that...would like to say anymore...but I probably never was

I also like waves that bend back toward you...allow you to get really aggressive and creative on the face

And waves that grow on you...where you can take off on a 2 foot wave and be riding something overhead by the end. Buggeries on the Central Coast is the best example of this I can think of...that was a cool day trip, when barely anyone knew about it.

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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Beanpole » Mon Aug 31, 2015 6:22 pm

Similar to Trev....except I don't like Dee Why that much....Take offs too narrow.....and if there's one thing I don't like its a congested small fast take off with a rock bottom....or coral for that matter.

Sandon I really like on its day. I particularly like a wave with a good bowl section.
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Trev
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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Trev » Mon Aug 31, 2015 6:43 pm

Beanpole wrote:Similar to Trev....except I don't like Dee Why that much....Take offs too narrow.....and if there's one thing I don't like its a congested small fast take off with a rock bottom....or coral for that matter.
Yeah. Once I discovered The Bower I went to DY less.
Still managed to get bounced off the suck rock on more than one occasion.
And I'd only go at first light until the crowd got too much.
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You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

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I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by petulance » Mon Aug 31, 2015 7:41 pm

Soft reef breaks with a gentle take off, preferably over a soft seaweed covered reef and a channel for easy paddling and safety.
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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Aug 31, 2015 7:55 pm

Heavy energetic reef-driven waves. Big fcuken waves to 20'+ over deepwater reefs. Shallow sandbar point waves with some sectional variety. Rip bowls. Wedged up sandbar beachie barrels.

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pinhead
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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by pinhead » Mon Aug 31, 2015 7:57 pm

Hatchnam wrote:Six to eight foot grinding groundswells with only three people out.
For me pretty much anything with only three people out.

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Re: Favourite type of surf?

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Aug 31, 2015 8:01 pm

Oh and Pacific style reef waves over Indo style.

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