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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:39 pm
by The Mighty Sunbird
“well aj you know what they say, it takes a village to make a kid do something really stupid”
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:41 pm
by The Mighty Sunbird
My first was a backyard single fin which for some reason had chook feathers in the glass around the fin.
I have no memory of the first wave or board I stood up on
Cos I live in the moment, man
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:37 pm
by Thud
Beanpole wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:36 pm
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm
Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.
Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.
I think we can all agree on that, Brine Brother. It's Realsurfers you're talking to here remember.
I can tell you it’s AWESOME being AWESOME.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 4:00 pm
by gcuts
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm
As I've probably bored you with before, my first board was a 5'8" squash tail single fin. I didn't know it at the time but it was originally shaped for Nat Young who rode it in the 1970 world contest at Johanna.
My lil bro's first board was a Ron Wade 5'6" pop-out double ender singly.
We got beyond those boards very quickly and two years later were riding hand shaped 6' plus pintails, v much the high performance boards of their time.
We never bothered with "the glide" or whatever - just pushed ahead with surfing and boards as quickly as our circumstances allowed. It was just about time in the water and the number of waves caught.
Nobody tried to impose a vision of surfing on us, we looked out at the world and chose what visions we liked and followed them. Adults? Ha!
This is pretty congruent with almost every good to very good surfer I've ever talked with about their origins and development.
Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.
Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.
So don't undercut your kids, give 'em a shot, maybe they won't take it but that'll be their choice.
Really?
FMD.
And the crowd in here let's you get away with this stuff?
FMD.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:01 pm
by foamy
Get away with what?
Saying it’s awesome being a good surfer?
Well, if that annoys you, Nick wrote a whole book on the subject.
“The Complete Guide to Surfing Your Best - Vol 2 : Advanced surf skills and knowledge for all surfers” by Nick Carroll
You could buy that book and be super annoyed.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:53 pm
by BA
If I could surf like NC I’d tell everyone. Like just tell strangers as I passed them in the street.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:57 pm
by channels
If I could surf like NC, I'd post Surfline videos of myself to forums.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 6:01 pm
by Thud
Don’t let Carroll off the hook. I get what what he saying, he’s appreciative that he can surf great breaks and stoked it’s a skill he’s acquired and maintained.
Still a nob though
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:03 pm
by godsavetheking
Most Australians are pretty conceited. Oh you hide it quite well behind that faux humility and self deprecation but that’s always very much only skin deep
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:07 pm
by marauding mullet
Ca’n Goddy, do the Ozzy accent
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:31 pm
by Nick Carroll
I dunno god save I think it's a bit hard to pin down an Australian cliche right now. That ad campaign with Kylie Minogue etc may have hit the spot for terrified Britons who wish there was a decent white country somewhere out there who will grovel to them and love the Queen or whatever, but it's as far from the truth as Wales is from Hawaii. Australia is no longer white and English, it's a hacked up melting pot of mad ex-nationalities, exactly the kind of place Britishers are scared shitless of their own little island becoming. Ghastly. That self deprecating boastfulness is just a memory, along with Barry fcuking Mackenzie and every other cheeseball cultural reference you can imagine.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:35 pm
by godsavetheking
You should the latest ad for Wales. It looks fcuking amazing. I genuinely had no idea what it was an advert for until Visit Wales popped up at the end
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:38 pm
by Trev
What? The seaplane one?
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:54 pm
by godsavetheking
Dunno, wasn’t really paying much attention. It had the snowdonia zip line (but not the wave pool)
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:59 pm
by Trev
godsavethequeen wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:54 pm
Dunno, wasn’t really paying much attention. It had the snowdonia zip line (but not the wave pool)
Nup. Not the seaplane one.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:14 pm
by Cranked
gcuts wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2020 4:00 pm
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm
As I've probably bored you with before, my first board was a 5'8" squash tail single fin. I didn't know it at the time but it was originally shaped for Nat Young who rode it in the 1970 world contest at Johanna.
My lil bro's first board was a Ron Wade 5'6" pop-out double ender singly.
We got beyond those boards very quickly and two years later were riding hand shaped 6' plus pintails, v much the high performance boards of their time.
We never bothered with "the glide" or whatever - just pushed ahead with surfing and boards as quickly as our circumstances allowed. It was just about time in the water and the number of waves caught.
Nobody tried to impose a vision of surfing on us, we looked out at the world and chose what visions we liked and followed them. Adults? Ha!
This is pretty congruent with almost every good to very good surfer I've ever talked with about their origins and development.
Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.
Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.
So don't undercut your kids, give 'em a shot, maybe they won't take it but that'll be their choice.
Really?
FMD.
And the crowd in here let's you get away with this stuff?
FMD.
Pretty understated really, Nick only said he was a good surfer.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:27 pm
by godsavetheking
Yeah but that was just the faux humility talking. Underneath he was shouting ‘I AM A SURFING GOD’
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:30 pm
by Nick Carroll
Trev wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:38 pm
What? The seaplane one?
WTF does Trev watch ads for Wales????
This whole thing is way more fcuked up than I thought