Just general surfing stuff

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:08 am

For a long time now I've viewed surfing as like skiing. My body moves up and down. As it moves up I weight one edge of the board and it turns, as my extension stops and I drop the rail is unweighted and I change to the other rail.

So there is a rhythm of continual extension and compression of the body as you change from rail to rail.

I use the same technique of weighting and unweighting, compression and extension, when I'm riding a mountain bike through a series of turns

The unweighting can be either at an up or down moment in the movement of your body. Down unweighting is quicker.

I first learnt this in "How to Ski" instruction books and have not seen or heard or read it anywhere else. It can be a graceful and flowing motion.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:19 am

And oh, IMO you can see the old style surfing where turning is done by just sort of leaning with no compression/extension - to me it often looks awkward and lacks rhythm and style
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:33 am

I’m talking more Tom Curren J Bay (he was riding a 7ft plus board) and from an older perspective Jeff Hackman. Not so much thick wobbly long single fins that require perfection to look awesome.

I should add flow and DRIVE.
Last edited by Thud on Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:41 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:34 am

Trev wrote:
Tue Dec 10, 2019 8:48 am
Agreed Thud.
For me it's always been about the flow.
To me short boarders are more like gymnasts. As you say, incredibly athletic.

But then, I'm REALLY old.
But that’s why it’s good having you around Trev, make us feel younger.
Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Tue Dec 10, 2019 11:52 am

Thud wrote:
Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:34 am
Trev wrote:
Tue Dec 10, 2019 8:48 am
Agreed Thud.
For me it's always been about the flow.
To me short boarders are more like gymnasts. As you say, incredibly athletic.

But then, I'm REALLY old.
But that’s why it’s good having you around Trev, make us feel younger.
And having Baba around makes me feel younger. 🤪
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Tue Dec 10, 2019 5:01 pm

I just like down the line surfing on point breaks really. A lot of short board surfing particularly comp surfing suits peaky wedging waves that you can bash the lip on. Nothing worse than seeing a beautiful wall and some stooge busts an air then lands in the whitewater. Critical manoeuvre, bro.

There's a bit of footage around of Slater surfing Honolua Bay that's just so spot on positioning wise. I much prefer his free surfing. No not posting a link.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Wed Dec 11, 2019 9:57 am

In another example of being completely out of tune Nutri Gain is running ads during Pipe with some clubbies going to some remote 3' wave and towing in by helicopter on their bellies and knees like it's Extreme Sport.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Wed Dec 11, 2019 11:31 am

I saw that. I kept waiting for something.
Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding.

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BA
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Thu Dec 12, 2019 6:32 am

Pipe is firing.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Drailed » Thu Dec 12, 2019 9:16 am

BA wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 6:32 am
Pipe is firing.
Good but not firing.

Medina thanking God in his interviews is irritating as fccck.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by channels » Thu Dec 12, 2019 10:45 am

Kelly still proving he is better than most.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Thu Dec 12, 2019 1:45 pm

Slater’s 10 today is worth watching if you haven’t seen it.

https://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/4 ... t-backdoor

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Thu Dec 12, 2019 4:11 pm

Drailed wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 9:16 am
BA wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 6:32 am
Pipe is firing.
Good but not firing
You’re a hard marker Loof.

Image

Image

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Wyre
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Wyre » Thu Dec 12, 2019 4:33 pm

foamy wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 1:45 pm
Slater’s 10 today is worth watching if you haven’t seen it.

https://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/4 ... t-backdoor
Jaysus!!
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Dec 12, 2019 4:56 pm

you're right, loony's got no clue at all

For a while today Pipe was a+

https://www.coastalwatch.com/surfing/25 ... r-the-goat

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Thu Dec 12, 2019 5:15 pm

Wyre wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 4:33 pm
foamy wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 1:45 pm
Slater’s 10 today is worth watching if you haven’t seen it.

https://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/4 ... t-backdoor
Jaysus!!
F$ck yeh. That was tops. Go Kelly.
Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding.

Sheng Weng

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Thu Dec 12, 2019 5:17 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 4:56 pm
you're right, loony's got no clue at all

For a while today Pipe was a+

https://www.coastalwatch.com/surfing/25 ... r-the-goat
“A short dark man has an easel set up on the sand.......”

Kelly with a 6’6.
Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding.

Sheng Weng

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Dec 12, 2019 5:30 pm

yes I was trying for symbolism there

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