Just general surfing stuff

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Sun Sep 22, 2019 12:05 pm

Legion wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 11:14 am
I'll bet Sophie is glad at least one person liked the event. You should write the marketing blurb, Nick.
Oh yes I am sure she would like the line “it’s just such a fcuked environment — like a sort of WSL Dreamland in Hell”

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by crabmeat thompson » Sun Sep 22, 2019 3:58 pm

Cranked wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 10:54 am

I hear your pain.

that's just it man ... there is no pain. not a single ounce.


maybe i'm just an adrenaline junkie and i get more from skating. maybe it's just a phase that'll pass. i really don't know. i've never been here before.

i'm not thinking too much about it ... just doing it.
steve shearer wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:31 am
You are both absorbing salt and urinating.

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Sun Sep 22, 2019 4:26 pm

Of course there’s the issue of being a 40 something hanging at the park. To your point surfing is full of old blokes blowing waves.
Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding.

Sheng Weng

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Legion
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Sun Sep 22, 2019 4:29 pm

It's better than in the bushes near the local school like he used to.

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Trev
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Sun Sep 22, 2019 4:53 pm

Legion wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 4:29 pm
It's better than in the bushes near the local school like he used to.
Used to???
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Sun Sep 22, 2019 5:12 pm

crabmeat thompson wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 10:17 am
godsavethequeen wrote:
Sat Sep 21, 2019 7:55 am
I don’t understand. Don’t you surf for how it makes you feel? How can your ‘stoke’ levels be affected by whether surfing is cool or not?
yeah, surfing just doesn't feel the same it used to. i use the whole 'cool' thing as a bit of a simplistic troll. sure, it's crowded like never before. that, i think i can mostly handle. but maybe something deeper is happening to me.

it's a good hypothesis: i surf bcos how it makes me feel. So i did some thinking!

right now to me, surfing symbolises gentrification. constant reminders how we're fucking the place with pollution, development, over population and plastic.


i read about a bloke searching for enlightenment ... he practised buddhism, he meditated. he did yoga. he ate clean, he cleansed his soul with hours & hours of therapy. Ultimately he stated his biggest progress towards enlightenment was cutting out things in his life which brought negativity to him.

he reckoned the single biggest stride was tuning out the news. he stopped all of his new consumption. some might call it apathetic to bury your head in the sand ... but for him, not watching & reading how everything is fucked around him ... and simplifying his life with what's directly in his line of sight made him an immensely more happier person.


... surfing is kinda like that to me right now. it's a constant reminder of how the gentrified kooks have taken over. my fave wave on the coast, the last time i surfed there; there was not one car under 1-2 years old parked there. it was all black rangers, rovers, landcruisers, hiluxes, everests, fortunas etc

in the water it was a fucking mess. people surfing horribly - but continually paddling inside and bombing waves, shithouse manners everywhere, heaps of aggression & in general just bad vibes.

i had this moment in the water when i genuinely questioned what the fuck i was doing.


maybe when i move to tassie i'll take up surfing again, but for now ... it's not even on my radar. i get buzzed after skating. like properly stoked out. i'm happier after meditating and i'm ultra content after yoga. i love my long ocean swims and there's my salt water fix. it's all positive!

surfing to me right now - negative.
Nice post braith. We’ve all had long old relationships with surfing so I reckon the odd freshen up or time away to gain a bit of perspective is healthy enough. It’s a strange kind of cyborg who keeps ploughing the same ol furrow for 35 years without questioning anything

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Sun Sep 22, 2019 5:50 pm

crabmeat thompson wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 3:58 pm
Cranked wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 10:54 am

I hear your pain.

that's just it man ... there is no pain. not a single ounce.


maybe i'm just an adrenaline junkie and i get more from skating. maybe it's just a phase that'll pass. i really don't know. i've never been here before.

i'm not thinking too much about it ... just doing it.
I'm with you on the adrenaline rush braithy: that incredible focus, the feeling that time stands still, the exhilaration when you pull off something difficult and dangerous. Downhill biking has it in spades, and I'm sure skating does too.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sun Sep 22, 2019 7:45 pm

godsavethequeen wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 5:12 pm
It’s a strange kind of cyborg who keeps ploughing the same ol furrow for 35 years without questioning anything
that reminds me of the central character in Michel Houllebecq's Whatever.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Sun Sep 22, 2019 7:50 pm

There’s plenty who do it.

The same bus to work everyday to the same job to the same ground to support the same team. Over and over and over and over......

That’s how people grow old quickly. Routine.
Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding.

Sheng Weng

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No Pants Lance
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by No Pants Lance » Sun Sep 22, 2019 8:22 pm

wot Braithy said .." ..."
wow, so much to unpack there. surfing 'n all. I get that. We're years apart, yet I stoopidly, churlishly, shittily resent the same observations,but wh am i to do so?

steve shearer wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 7:45 pm
godsavethequeen wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 5:12 pm
It’s a strange kind of cyborg who keeps ploughing the same ol furrow for 35 years without questioning anything
that reminds me of the central character in Michel Houllebecq's Whatever.

and yeah, he begins with Romans XIII, 12 - " the night is far spent, the day is at hand: let us therefore cast off the works of darkness, and let us put on the armour of light" .

And yet that light leads this character to a place of separation, imprisoned within themselves.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Sun Sep 22, 2019 8:29 pm

Yerah braithy I wouldn’t sweat it, do what feels right.

We all gotta re-assess our passions from time to time.

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Lucky Al
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Lucky Al » Sun Sep 22, 2019 8:39 pm

I made this boogieboard out of a piece of rubber today. It's 34.5 x 19.25 x 1.75 inches. I'm going to ride it in the Bai Xep shorebreak when the surf comes up:

Image

Image

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by crabmeat thompson » Sun Sep 22, 2019 8:55 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Sun Sep 22, 2019 8:29 pm
Yerah braithy I wouldn’t sweat it, do what feels right.

We all gotta re-assess our passions from time to time.
and that's what it feels like right now. a phase that i'm going through that'll pass once i've re-assessed everything.

it's just weirded me out. i'd never been happier with my boards, my health and my level of surfing was at an all time high.
steve shearer wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:31 am
You are both absorbing salt and urinating.

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Lucky Al
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Lucky Al » Sun Sep 22, 2019 8:57 pm

I've been turning my boogieboard around and around, eyeing it up and down, and got a feeling it's going to go good. I think I'll call it the Red Fish Blue Fish.

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Sun Sep 22, 2019 10:24 pm

What do the locals think about your surfing Al? Respected dude or figure of fun?

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Sep 23, 2019 2:59 am

I can't imagine surfing on the Gold Coast on a regular basis for the above reasons.

julioadler
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by julioadler » Mon Sep 23, 2019 12:26 pm

Folks,
don't mind me...
Are we turning into twins nations ?
https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfr ... dates-them
Just saying.
Maybe even make our own association (with acronym and all!) and dominate the world of surfing!

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Sep 23, 2019 2:14 pm

Brazil's men and Australia's women!

Like pro surfers I mean

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