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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 9:32 am
by buddy
Maybe only just 6ft on the biggest sets at the pot where it jacks up.

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 9:51 am
by Beanpole
Thats what I thought...more like 5' :-D-:

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 9:56 am
by buddy
I thought 5 foot was still in Iggy's scale?
Lennox is 7-9 foot today.

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 12:28 pm
by Beanpole
It is but it's about 12-13 ft in real terms.

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 12:40 pm
by Cranked
3,500kJ

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 12:43 pm
by Beanpole
Cranky returning some sanity to wave measurement. Actually the Cyclonic Swell would be the perfect time to assess the relative merits of kj as a measurement of swell intensity versus size.

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 12:43 pm
by Cranked
6,500kJ on Sunday night, 6,000 in the morning. Still got a bit to go to reach the Ulu 17,500 of last year

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 12:50 pm
by Cranked
Oma is giving a short period swell of 11-13s compared to the usual winter long fetch Indian ocean swells of 15-20s.

There's some great waves being ridden on the goldy - lots of vids already

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 1:32 pm
by alakaboo
13s is actually fairly long period for the east coast.
7-9s is pretty standard north of Byron.

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 7:59 pm
by Beanpole
I was looking at some videos on YouTube about wooden surfboards a while ago and hit a treasure trove of vintage Roy Footage. There he was on his aircraft carrier in bright orange wetsuit with motorcycle helmet on tacking across the NZ surf zones, shaping, more surfing. I'm impressed he could actually turn the things.

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 12:35 pm
by foamy
I hadn't seen this clip of Steph Gilmore surfing Malibu. Very good.

https://stabmag.com/stabcinema/stephani ... of-beauty/

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 12:48 pm
by buddy
foamy wrote:
Wed Mar 06, 2019 12:35 pm
I hadn't seen this clip of Steph Gilmore surfing Malibu. Very good.

https://stabmag.com/stabcinema/stephani ... of-beauty/
No leggy in crowded surf so we should probably hang her.

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 2:31 pm
by The Mighty Sunbird
She’s better than Kelly

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 9:02 pm
by Beanpole
No matter how much juice they put in the algorithms, there remains a few tricks from the gun shapers that don't get computed.

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2019 6:54 pm
by Trev
R.I.P. Baddy
Only 67?

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2019 6:55 pm
by Trev
From Pacific Longboarder
Rest in Peace David Treloar.
Our love and thoughts are with Josephine.
The great Australian surfer, fisherman and gentleman died today (Thursday 28th March) of a heart attack, aged 67, while surfing his beloved Angourie Point, where he’d been the best surfer in the water since 1970.
Check him out stealing the show in a clip from Morning of the Earth on pacificlongboarder.com
R.I.P. Baddy

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2019 7:23 pm
by Beanpole
Far out. Another talented member of the old guard bites the dust.
RIP

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2019 7:30 pm
by steve shearer
He'll be sadly missed.
Huge influence on my life.

That whole pre-commercial, pre-pro surfing era always resonated with me far more deeply than the jumpsuits and desperate deception of early pro surfing.
I fell in with George and Brocky and by extension Baddy when I came down here.

Not because of any hero worship but because we did the same things.
They were guys, George and Baddy especially who fished when it was flat, surfed when there were waves. What I thought, and still do, as true watermen....to use that horribly cliched phrase.
Not only could they play in the ocean, they could subsist off it and know it in a way only those who do subsist off it can.

Baddy used to come up here when the swell was on and hang in Brocky's yard. It was fcuking awesome. The day would be dissected and placed into historical context.
He was a great storyteller and mythologizer. He made you feel like history wasn't just something that had happened but was happening now and we were paying attention to it. We were part of it.
We loved him, we looked up to him; he was tremendously fun and funny. Rabelaisian.

He loved me and my mate from Bribie. He thought that was hilarious. That we were there mixing it up on big days with Hawaiian boards. He got such a kick out of it.

Going down to Angas and surfing the Point was always a treat with Baddy in the water. He was the best kind of local custodian in my opinion. There was order, humour, good chance you'd get called into a good one. He made it seem special. Timeless.

He knew every swell, the movements of sand, currents, fish activity. You could dig down as deep as you could get and Baddy knew something about it, could recall an analogue. I know he passed a lot of that on. He was generous with his knowledge. Generous in spirit.

I spoke to him last year on the phone for a surfers journal story. It was so good to step back into that world. He made me feel it was OK to live that life, to have those passions and live them fully and without remorse or social shame.
He still seemed young, very young at heart but without that kind of perpetual adolescent avoidance of responsibilities. He raised families, put a lot of love into a lot of lives.
He was one of a kind.