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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:46 pm
by marauding mullet
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 1:32 pm
just to drop the fcuken hammer again
I've been on a transition surf movie bender and that seq of MP at Kirra on Morning of the Earth is still a complete jaw dropper. Go to 43min and something on here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ak-ZsAB ... ture=share
Like four years before this was shot, pretty much every surfer in the world was riding loggers. Now, MP, 19 years old and just crackling with energy and style, is lining up Kirra like a gunslinger. You can just smell the surfing being invented as it happens on screen.
It's funny eh Alby just kind of stumbled across the day this was shot, it wasn't set up at all. And the ftg is not at all nostalgic, it's just kind of raw and brilliant.
1971, can’t help but notice how much he uses the middle and front of the deck. Wasn’t til 10 years later I first surfed Kirra, had it like that many times tho, and I was standing middle and front a lot too. Suited Kirra.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:55 pm
by Drailed
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:44 pm
this isn't about you hatchnam. This is about drailed. ha ha my spell check tried to change it to "drained"
dont lie, your spell check didnt write that at all.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:57 pm
by Cranked
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:37 pm
I'll even lend you my new board
hang on no I won't.
That looks serious Nick. Where's it for? Dimensions?
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 5:06 pm
by Beanpole
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:33 pm
my god this site is a Kook Haven isn't it
I mean drailed stand up for god's sake.
This is the part where I say that my first store bought board was the same MP Model he rides in MOTE. A Joe Larkin Ski Free. He was still tooling around Kirra Car Park on a dragstar Pushie. Kind of around the time he went to Bells for the first time.
My dad wouldn't take me to Byron to buy a San Juan cause they were druggoes. He thought Joe was more conservative. So I got an MP
Jimmy Gamboa riding a hull at Rincon looks like he's channeling MP.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 5:08 pm
by foamy
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Fri Nov 16, 2018 11:24 am
Fcuk! I just got a crazy board shaped
9'8" x 20.5" x 3.5" Christenson off a Twig file, low entry to foiled vee bottom pintail quad.
Chris lives the classic gypsy shaper's life, orders collect at various points on the globe, he comes into town and tunes in with the machine etc, finish shapes a pile of boards, then depending on what's happening either heads off to the next port of call or goes into re-design mode. I think he's off to the Goldie now. Meanwhile he's left me this thing, a full on bombie killing spear.
It looks great, Nick.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:10 pm
by The Mighty Sunbird
Yeah watch out loofy, we’s comin to get ya!!
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:25 pm
by Nick Carroll
Cranked wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:57 pm
That looks serious Nick. Where's it for? Dimensions?
see foamy's re-post above. It's for where fcuken ever. Germans? Various other bombies? Down south? Maybe big Cloudbreak. Just for sorta round here though.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:32 pm
by Drailed
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:25 pm
Cranked wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:57 pm
That looks serious Nick. Where's it for? Dimensions?
see foamy's re-post above. It's for where fcuken ever. Germans? Various other bombies? Down south? Maybe big Cloudbreak. Just for sorta round here though.
Didnt Shearer have one of those for 4ft Cloudbreak
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:54 pm
by Beanpole
The Mighty Sunbird wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:10 pm
Yeah watch out loofy, we’s comin to get ya!!
That one has stripes on the top doesn't it?
Looks about as well designed as my backyard, The Mighty.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:43 pm
by Nick Carroll
Drailed wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:32 pm
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:25 pm
Cranked wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:57 pm
That looks serious Nick. Where's it for? Dimensions?
see foamy's re-post above. It's for where fcuken ever. Germans? Various other bombies? Down south? Maybe big Cloudbreak. Just for sorta round here though.
Didnt Shearer have one of those for 4ft Cloudbreak
What do I care drained. The Longtard has fled the building. 4’ Cloudbreak is for American adult learners. And so the kooky world turns.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:33 pm
by Beanpole
....and senior surfers
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:41 pm
by alakaboo
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:20 pm
steve shearer wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:34 pm
I saw a guy on a new Christenson get so rag-dolled on the rock-off on Sunday.
Why do you think he is the best designer in the world Nick?
He seems to be able to design and shape pretty much anything, from supergun paddle-in craft for Jaws etc (see Greg Long, numerous others) to classic Fish and longboards, to epic tube riding 6' plus pintails, without missing a beat. Like really without missing a beat. Every single good surfer I know who has one or more of his boards, and this is right across the spectrum of those designs, kind of slightly drools when the subject comes up. All the boards I've seen of his, from Greg's Eddie winning quiver of 2009 to an 8'0" semi longboard he shaped for my brother's partner to a bunch of different craft I've seen in CA and here, including several six channel swallows I saw today, just reeked of pure class, wonderful combinations of rocker, outline, foil and bottom lines. On this basis I am willing to trust his skills beyond any other shaper right now for a board I want to ride at the edge of my capabilities, in Sydney area surf barely anyone has yet ridden. So I am voting with my money and my sense of what's required for those waves.
I should add I think there's a few other designers who are in that kind of league, like Pat Rawson can do all that for sure, Stu Kenson in CA, Gunther Rohn, here in Oz I think Wayne Webster is pretty much the closest thing we have to a true across the board super designer. But yeah, I do think Chris is the guy right now.
We'll Nick after a couple of weeks riding powder and piste in Japan I can tell you he makes a pretty fcuking amazing powder snowboard as well.
https://www.jonessnowboards.com/en-US/g ... ander.html
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 9:35 pm
by jimmy
I’ve got to go to Singapore in a few weeks for work and am going to have a week surfing on the way back. Was gonna come back through Bali and see where the waves are but seeing as I’m further West I’d thought I’d check out some land based options on Sumatra to minimise travel time.
Was thinking about Banda Aceh but also after any recommendations/ advice on places further South.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:50 pm
by Cranked
I think everywhere in Indo is a bit hit and miss at that time Jimmy.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:51 pm
by marauding mullet
jimmy wrote: ↑Thu Feb 14, 2019 9:35 pm
I’ve got to go to Singapore in a few weeks for work and am going to have a week surfing on the way back. Was gonna come back through Bali and see where the waves are but seeing as I’m further West I’d thought I’d check out some land based options on Sumatra to minimise travel time.
Was thinking about Banda Aceh but also after any recommendations/ advice on places further South.
http://forum.realsurf.com/forum/viewtop ... 3&start=36 This thread, pages 3,4 and 5 I posted some stuff about the surf camp cluster just south of Krui. Right in front of a left hander, other waves around with a scooter. Laid back vibe, friendly people. Swell magnet
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:59 pm
by jimmy
I know Cranky. Was just after some advice about cool places to stay that people might have been to. I’m not paying for flights and only spend cash on accommodation. Thought Acheh would be cool because 15 years ago they lost 250,000 people which was a large proportion of their population. And like the idea of going somewhere that is not one of the usual surf destinations.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 8:30 am
by Cranked
You can go to Sumba with Salty and the other realsurf reprobates
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 10:21 am
by Nick Carroll
well OK it's getting more realer now
the longtard must be shitting himself.