RealSurf Surfers' Forum

You australians will be dismayed to hear that UK Sport has partially relaxed its draconian payment-by-results policy and is giving British surfing a couple of hundred gees in readiness for Olympic year. 2020 may come too early but expect a flotilla of overfed public schoolboys to take 2024 by storm, their gold medal winning strategy painstakingly applied by an enigmatic German who prizes genetics uber alles

Ha ha I talked with Joey Buran recently, yes Joey the uber crazy American giant killer from the early 80s. Little known fact: Joey coached the GB team!

Watched a doco on the Momentum generation. Not bad. It's pretty much about Rob Machado and Kelly. Better than I thought it would be. I didn't realise Machado was on the skids until Taylor Steele made the Drifter movies with him. Kelly is an interesting and very complex guy. A complete enigma who seemily craves deep relationships but possibly doesn't really care or know how to form and maintain them.

Speaking of evil places you don't ever want to be, the most frightening place I've ever seen, one that literally sent a chill up my spine, was Secrets at Ulus on that big day earlier this year.

At 8am I was checking it, no-one else around, and a giant set, the biggest in about 20 years was stacked to the horizon and rolling into the cliffs. The cliffs sort of close it in so the waves focus and the water can't get out, no-one could possibly have survived that 20 wave set.

I looked up to to Ulus and there were 2 guys a bit south of outside corner (they had paddled up from padang) and I thought you poor, poor fcukers, in about 5 minutes time you're going to be fighting for your lives and there's no way anyone can do anything to help

They got caught by that set but the rip was so strong they were swept around the corner and out of the really heavy impact zone very quickly

It was a bit later, about 9am, that 2 guys on a ski appeared and they towed into the biggest and longest waves ever surfed at ulus. It was just huge with no takers for the next few hours.

Shoulda taken out the McCoy

.

Here we go again btw

Talk to me NC! Gimme something here, I've stopped looking forward to getting up early

Surf Forecast is giving Lennox zero out of 10 for the next 7 days. Hope this helps.

Ah there's gonna be a bunch of NNE wind connected with the monsoon flow coming down through Australia, depending on where it actually blows there could be a v special NE swell off it south of about Forster. But then again it could just be shit.

Coming into the Christmas period looks like a fair bit of easterly trade wind swell for most of the coast north of maybe Wollongong but def focused on the NSW north coast and southern Qld coast. Local winds could be fair to fcuked depending.

Epic epic longer range forecasts for the whole N Atlantic basin, dead set if you were free as a Bird you would plan to go to Morocco/points south for about a month.

What's clipping your feathers Mr Carroll?

There's only one of me D dog. I like everything I have planned for the first few months of next year but it all comes at an opportunity cost. You know it's like when you decide to go Cycling, it means you can't play soccer at the same time

That cyclone recurve is looking like a best case/worst case scenario for the Qld coast.
Some areas that were burnt out last week will be flooded next week.

Crazy how quickly it's projected to re-intensify.
Gulf must be warm.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 11, 2018 12:36 pm

There's only one of me D dog. I like everything I have planned for the first few months of next year but it all comes at an opportunity cost. You know it's like when you decide to go Cycling, it means you can't play soccer at the same time

I hear you brine brother, I hear you. As long as you getting wet.

I know we will surf together one day.

wow btw, just watching the progs, I don't think I've ever seen a monsoon-type low travel the way they say this one will -- carrying tropical moisture from SE Asia all the way beyond 50 degrees S

Global warming!!!!!

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 12, 2018 10:05 am

wow btw, just watching the progs, I don't think I've ever seen a monsoon-type low travel the way they say this one will -- carrying tropical moisture from SE Asia all the way beyond 50 degrees S

Global warming!!!!!

Thats a big swell from the Nor East forecast for Saturday...

Have a go at the SSTs

Good mate featuring in new wave buoy tech interview over on swellnut. I could offer an intro to Steve as incentive to get him back here