RealSurf Surfers' Forum

got it. He's a goofy foot. Somehow the film on YouTube is shot the other way

I know that's what you were after but I have a feeling everyone in here would have noticed that

He does have a great style.

Just testing

Thud wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 19, 2018 1:48 pm

https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... g-drowning

20% of surfers self report that they cannot or are weak swimmers in the surf. Must be a large foreign contingent I'm guessing or older surfers who don't live near the water who dabble now and again.

That’s an underestimate I reckon. There’ll be a gap between people who can barely swim and people who are willing to admit it.

There’s probably also a gap betweeen the surfers at most patrolled beaches and those at unpatrolled locations.

Current biggest cause of death while surfing worldwide? Heart attack.

Thud wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 19, 2018 8:22 pm

Rob Machado has lovely style. Is style underrated today?

Not if you consider his endorsement contracts, Rob’s been pulling vast fortunes for over a decade based solely on that lovely style

Rob’s one of my favourite all-time surfers.

He flows and connects effortlessly without all the ugly tic-tac two-step stuff.

Speaking of surfers who are weak swimmers, Rob Machado.

As reported by Chas Smith in Beach Grit.

The conversation turned, slightly, toward having enough general sense to be able to survive. Rob said, “I don’t even know how to swim but if you drop me at second reef Pipe I’m sure I’ll figure out how to get to the beach.”

“Really?” I responded “You really don’t know how to swim?”

“I mean kind of…” he said, “…but not well at all.”

And how’s that. Rob Machado can’t swim well. He is a Pipeline Master.

Before legropes everyone was fitter. A lot of quality breaks like Lennox didn't have many takers either.

Some things probably in Rob's favour
Excellent lung capacity
Can float
Understands currents
Fitness
Calm demeanour
Resting heart rate of about 10 b.p.m.

Very good article by Sean Doherty about JJF and a quick trip to King Island with Rasta.

https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/

foamy wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:26 am

Very good article by Sean Doherty about JJF and a quick trip to King Island with Rasta.

https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/

"Very good" You reckon? They tried to write it as though Florence is some kind of fccckn mythical figure. Boring as batshit.

Drailed wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 21, 2018 11:23 am

foamy wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:26 am

Very good article by Sean Doherty about JJF and a quick trip to King Island with Rasta.

https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/

"Very good" You reckon? They tried to write it as though Florence is some kind of fccckn mythical figure. Boring as batshit.

Then there is the question are flow hives ethical, alot of beekeepers think you could be reprograming the bee not to make the honeycombs.

...

Nick, much to do with Salt in the Blood?

On National Geo Channel 8.30 Monday, I think

Nothing. I dunno anything about it.

"Salt In The Blood, a short film documenting parts of Tom Carrolls life and how the exhibition came to be pulled together was screened at the launch of the Torquay exhibition. Within the first few minutes of the film I was welling up as Tom's words of being embraced by the ocean when times were tough struck a nerve with me. It is a beautiful short film that surfers, photographers and anyone with an appreciation for creative freedom will enjoy."

New book about Keith Paul out. Hope it's a good read. One smooth surfer.