Just general surfing stuff

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Yuke Hunt
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Yuke Hunt » Wed Apr 15, 2015 9:00 am

steve shearer wrote:He's cutting back, probably sharing a wave with his mate/
Oh he's definitely "sharing" ... but whether the other fella is a willing participant is another matter altogether.
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stinky_wes
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by stinky_wes » Wed Apr 15, 2015 9:57 am

The Merewether crew are known for wave sharing, also known as "let's take the drop anyway and hope the guy inside falls off".

Unfortunately there aren't many options in the area that hold 8ft+ so it get's busy on the bigger days.

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Wed Apr 15, 2015 11:42 am

Merewether: only place I have ever had someone deliberately spear their board at me as I rode past. That's from a sitting position not while they were riding. Apparently they didn't like that I was taking off deeper than them.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:53 pm

foamy wrote:I don't see this thread as covering bad things that happen while surfing, but I found this film of being caught inside a 6 wave set at Todos Santos interesting. Not giant surf, but obviously a very solid, long period swell.

We often don't realise just how short most rides are. Taylor Knox said, only semi-jokingly, the average Californian wave ride is 2 to 3 seconds. You watch website's wave of the week, when not in slo-mo, they are often no more than 7 second rides.

But this chap, puffed already by paddling around and then paddling for and missing a non-set wave, finds himself caught inside a very solid six wave set. Going by the camera, while he is working hard, he spends about 55 seconds underwater in a period of 1 min 45 secs. To me, that is a surprising amount of time. I think the lesson is, if you don't have a fair bit of fitness, you could easily be in a lot of trouble.
http://youtu.be/s695pzIiRDg
Hee hee
Erase.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by andy2476 » Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:21 pm

Drailed wrote:Yeah I was thinking a tow.. His entry and line just doesnt add up .


Drailed wrote:He has def towed and going toward the peak before turning.



:lol:
Drailed wrote:
#goteamiggy

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:51 am

Jacksons Surfboards at Caringbah is selling their business. Great grass roots surf shop. It's a pity.

Image

Though Jim will still be shaping and Dave will still be doing repairs..
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beerfan » Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:00 am

Had a very nice 9'1" Jackson for a few years. Great board. Went quick on evilbay. Quality built too.
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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:24 am

I had a Jacksons quad shortboard for a little while. Was a stack of fun in small bowly beachbreaks. Wide point back from centre, with a hipped pulled in tight sharp swallow tail. Almost like a laser zap outline.

Dave does by far the best repair jobs of anyone I've ever taken boards to.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

aaarating
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by aaarating » Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:15 pm

What a a great thing to have been able to attend South Cronulla Bowlo to celebrate 40 years of Dave and Jim's involvement in Brian's original business dating back to the 50's. (Jackson and Cansdell I think?) Amongst the metro surf localities the Cronulla area, despite producing or at least having links to some of Australia's greatest surfers of their time (Bobby Brown, PT, Banksie, Dog Marsh and Occie) amongst many other great surfers, is often rolled by the Northern Beaches, which dominate due to their strong competitive psyche and with due acknowledgement seen as the cutting edge for a lot of surfboard design and production - whose gonna argue with Simon Anderson's thruster revolution? Despite this, Jacko and his crew cemented a much loved spot from generations of us in the south. Yeah, sometimes the boards were dogs - I remember buying a 6' stinger step bottom chimmed rail single fin effort circa 1978 - the first brand new board I ever bought. Shit it was a dog. Weighed a ton (glass, filler and finish coat) but looked fantastic on the rack but at Green Island in 6' sets you couldn't get to the bottom. But innovation and imagination were important and never feared. I forgive you Jim and Dave. You made heaps more and far better boards for thousands of us that went great and have provided life long memories. True surfers and gentlemen. You have earned a well deserved rest.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:59 pm

Bummer. Always like to pop in if I'm down that way. Always seem to have a solid selection of quality boards right across the range.

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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sat May 02, 2015 9:15 am

A well-argued and exuberant broadside fired upon the WSL for their mishandling of this week's Punta de Lobos big wave contest.
http://magicseaweed.com/news/ceremonial ... -out/7502/

tonks
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by tonks » Tue May 05, 2015 8:31 am


ctd
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by ctd » Tue May 05, 2015 9:24 am

MrMik, you wanted a gun didn't you? That one seems to work ok

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Kunji
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Kunji » Tue May 05, 2015 3:32 pm

How do you guys measure waves?

Discuss.
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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Tue May 05, 2015 4:41 pm

Not this old whore again.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by crabmeat thompson » Tue May 05, 2015 4:46 pm

Kunji wrote:How do you guys measure waves?

Discuss.

from the front.
steve shearer wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:31 am
You are both absorbing salt and urinating.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by ctd » Tue May 05, 2015 4:55 pm

Small, right size, too big.

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petulance
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by petulance » Tue May 05, 2015 5:06 pm

Flat, tiny, no fear, fun, pushing my limits, I shouldn't be out here, no bloody way.
smnmntll wrote: She's also moderately hot, with a bit of that petulance-approved titless starved whippet look about her but still pretty decent.

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