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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:59 pm
by buddy
Why would you feel bad for him?
He's clearly got more money than he knows what to do with.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:04 pm
by swvic
Either seriously deluded and thinking surfing would be easy or he has serious mental health issues. Either way he has too much money
Many years ago I went into the surfshop in Margaret River with a mate who was picking up a custom. Bloke in the shop was in the process of selling a family of 4 new boards, tail pads, wetties, covers, legropes, roof racks and straps. He chuckled in a couple of blocks of free wax
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:15 pm
by Thud
You see guys there are some things money can't fix. Pride, ego and man's constant assessment of where he sits in any hierarchy.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:24 pm
by steve shearer
I'm sure he has that fully covered in his professional and personal life.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:27 pm
by PeepeelaPew
...
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:28 pm
by Slobadan Madicubich
Hope he's got a " Life Coach ".
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:34 pm
by Thud
steve shearer wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:24 pm
I'm sure he has that fully covered in his professional and personal life.
Who knows. May have been his wife's money. I don't equate wealth with satisfaction. He just looked completely lost. Ah you're probably right.
If I see him again I'm going to ask him for a ride on that board, he can ride my DX 3
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:29 pm
by Trev
Legion wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:27 pm
And you didn't even say hello to loofy?
Beat me to it.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:00 am
by foamy
Most have probably already seen it, but the article by Fiona Capp in Fairfax about the movie 'Breath' is insightful and very well-written.
https://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/mo ... 0z62g.html
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:20 am
by Cranked
Thanks foamy.
Here's three insightful (imho) excerpts
...Baker is adamant the bravest and most heroic moment in the film would be when Pikelet stands his ground and resists the pressure from Sando and Loonie to surf the unconquered big-wave break called Nautilus. "When I look back at that time in my life," Baker says, "I certainly wish that I had more confidence in who I was to say, 'I'm not going to do that', and not feel like I'd failed. I think we have evolved enough to be able to accept that as a strength. They're the moments that define you and make you who you are and separate you from the mob."
...In its defiant mood of rebellion, rejection of responsibility and worship of youth, surf culture has traditionally celebrated the eternal adolescent in all of us: that secret part of the self that resists the pressure to be civilised and domesticated and finds atavistic solace in the sea's savage mystery. While we don't need to relinquish it in order to grow up, there's no escaping the fact that clinging to this inner adolescent has stunted surf culture. Localism, sexism, surf rage and racism have been some of its uglier manifestations.
..."People forsook the group in the late '60s and thus began the 'festival of me'. Surfers have always been the most gigantic narcissists, so it was a perfect alignment. I'm not talking about hobby surfers here, but lifelong hardcore surfers who sublimate every other part of their lives to the tides and the swell and the weather,"I he says. In their conception of themselves as exceptional and not answerable to anyone, Sando and Eva epitomise this strand of arrested development in surf culture.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:25 am
by Cranked
In regard to quote 3:
Surfers have always been the most gigantic narcissists... lifelong hardcore surfers who sublimate every other part of their lives to the tides and the swell and the weather," in their conception of themselves as exceptional and not answerable to anyone, ...this strand of arrested development in surf culture.
Is it arrested development or a near spiritual breakthrough into a meaningful life
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:19 am
by steve shearer
Is that quote attributable to Baker?
That whole trope of surfers as selfish narcissists is really one of the most tired and clapped out cliches around.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:20 am
by steve shearer
You want selfish narcissists Fiona Capp and Simon Baker look at Hollywood actors/directors or writers.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:04 pm
by Skipper
steve shearer wrote: ↑Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:19 am
Is that quote attributable to Baker?
That whole trope of surfers as selfish narcissists is really one of the most tired and clapped out cliches around.
from my reading no, it's attributed to Winton.
Kinda has a point though, but I'd qualify it on the grounds that the term narcissist itself, has taken on a whole other meaning in this age of gender/socio-sexual politics.
The selfish, individual centric aspect of a surfer is a given i reckon.
Nothing to be shamed by or vilified with.
You could say the same about golf.
or fishing.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:10 pm
by foamy
Steve, we are all selfish narcissists. That's the facticity
of the human condition.
But, the primary purpose of writing, directing and acting is to produce something for others to use.
Not with surfing. It is pure self-indulgence. It's just a way of feeling good. Nothing wrong with that. But people who go on about how surfing makes you special should take their hand off it.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:41 pm
by steve shearer
Nah mate.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:50 pm
by steve shearer
A, I reject the notion surfing is uniquely predisposed to producing selfish narcissists and it may even have a counter vailing effect over a lifetime and b: I reject the notion that surfing is purely self indulgent. It has a very strong utilitarian element which has both easily observed subjective parameters and easily quantifiable objective parameters.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:01 pm
by Nick Carroll
I would add c) surfing is still growing and developing as a culture here in Australia and in most other places around the world, just because for a while the Aussie surf culture looked pretty adolescent etc does not mean it is now or will be in the future. I think Fiona is remembering something that's no longer quite true.