Just general surfing stuff

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marauding mullet
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by marauding mullet » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:40 am

Thud wrote:
Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:38 am
Above 6'10 is single or 2+1 city.
I knew it! Smallest board I have is 6’ 7”
I’m going shopping
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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:41 am

Check out the Jye Byrnes Crossbreed
Ultimately a hero is a man who would argue with the gods, and so awakens devils to contest his vision.

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:50 pm

Went for a surf today. Was pretty average about 1pm.

Guy parks next to me in a new Land Rover Discovery, pulls out a new high performance longboard from FireWire (Taylor Jensen TT) puts on a brand new e bomb wetsuit under his brand new hoddie-dressing gown thingy. Had a tide watch.

He couldn't stand up. Didn't catch a wave. Was nervously looking side ways at people paddling into 2ft weak muck. I almost said to him "you know that board has a lot of rocker and is probably much harder to ride than a flat based fish". But I didn't, it would have been patronising, humiliating and his kids probably think Dads "a surfer he's cool". So I left it. And even typing this feel bad for him.
Ultimately a hero is a man who would argue with the gods, and so awakens devils to contest his vision.

buddy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:59 pm

Why would you feel bad for him?
He's clearly got more money than he knows what to do with.

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swvic
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by swvic » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:04 pm

Either seriously deluded and thinking surfing would be easy or he has serious mental health issues. Either way he has too much money

Many years ago I went into the surfshop in Margaret River with a mate who was picking up a custom. Bloke in the shop was in the process of selling a family of 4 new boards, tail pads, wetties, covers, legropes, roof racks and straps. He chuckled in a couple of blocks of free wax
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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:15 pm

You see guys there are some things money can't fix. Pride, ego and man's constant assessment of where he sits in any hierarchy.
Ultimately a hero is a man who would argue with the gods, and so awakens devils to contest his vision.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:24 pm

I'm sure he has that fully covered in his professional and personal life.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Legion
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:27 pm

And you didn't even say hello to loofy?

Slobadan Madicubich
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Slobadan Madicubich » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:28 pm

Hope he's got a " Life Coach ".

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:34 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:24 pm
I'm sure he has that fully covered in his professional and personal life.
Who knows. May have been his wife's money. I don't equate wealth with satisfaction. He just looked completely lost. Ah you're probably right.

If I see him again I'm going to ask him for a ride on that board, he can ride my DX 3
Ultimately a hero is a man who would argue with the gods, and so awakens devils to contest his vision.

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Cyclone
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cyclone » Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:29 pm

Legion wrote:
Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:27 pm
And you didn't even say hello to loofy?
Beat me to it. :-)(
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:00 am

Most have probably already seen it, but the article by Fiona Capp in Fairfax about the movie 'Breath' is insightful and very well-written.

https://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/mo ... 0z62g.html

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:20 am

foamy wrote:
Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:00 am
Most have probably already seen it, but the article by Fiona Capp in Fairfax about the movie 'Breath' is insightful and very well-written.

https://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/mo ... 0z62g.html
Thanks foamy.

Here's three insightful (imho) excerpts
...Baker is adamant the bravest and most heroic moment in the film would be when Pikelet stands his ground and resists the pressure from Sando and Loonie to surf the unconquered big-wave break called Nautilus. "When I look back at that time in my life," Baker says, "I certainly wish that I had more confidence in who I was to say, 'I'm not going to do that', and not feel like I'd failed. I think we have evolved enough to be able to accept that as a strength. They're the moments that define you and make you who you are and separate you from the mob."

...In its defiant mood of rebellion, rejection of responsibility and worship of youth, surf culture has traditionally celebrated the eternal adolescent in all of us: that secret part of the self that resists the pressure to be civilised and domesticated and finds atavistic solace in the sea's savage mystery. While we don't need to relinquish it in order to grow up, there's no escaping the fact that clinging to this inner adolescent has stunted surf culture. Localism, sexism, surf rage and racism have been some of its uglier manifestations.

..."People forsook the group in the late '60s and thus began the 'festival of me'. Surfers have always been the most gigantic narcissists, so it was a perfect alignment. I'm not talking about hobby surfers here, but lifelong hardcore surfers who sublimate every other part of their lives to the tides and the swell and the weather,"I he says. In their conception of themselves as exceptional and not answerable to anyone, Sando and Eva epitomise this strand of arrested development in surf culture.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:25 am

In regard to quote 3:
Surfers have always been the most gigantic narcissists... lifelong hardcore surfers who sublimate every other part of their lives to the tides and the swell and the weather," in their conception of themselves as exceptional and not answerable to anyone, ...this strand of arrested development in surf culture.
Is it arrested development or a near spiritual breakthrough into a meaningful life
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:19 am

Is that quote attributable to Baker?

That whole trope of surfers as selfish narcissists is really one of the most tired and clapped out cliches around.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:20 am

You want selfish narcissists Fiona Capp and Simon Baker look at Hollywood actors/directors or writers.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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No Pants Lance
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by No Pants Lance » Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:04 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:19 am
Is that quote attributable to Baker?

That whole trope of surfers as selfish narcissists is really one of the most tired and clapped out cliches around.
from my reading no, it's attributed to Winton.

Kinda has a point though, but I'd qualify it on the grounds that the term narcissist itself, has taken on a whole other meaning in this age of gender/socio-sexual politics.

The selfish, individual centric aspect of a surfer is a given i reckon.
Nothing to be shamed by or vilified with.

You could say the same about golf.
or fishing.
;-)

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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:10 pm

Steve, we are all selfish narcissists. That's the facticity :wink: of the human condition.
But, the primary purpose of writing, directing and acting is to produce something for others to use.
Not with surfing. It is pure self-indulgence. It's just a way of feeling good. Nothing wrong with that. But people who go on about how surfing makes you special should take their hand off it.

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