Just general surfing stuff

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by crabmeat thompson » Mon Feb 26, 2018 11:01 am

best 'big' wave board for around here ever, the 6'9" black beauty.

that was my cadillac at burleigh and currumbin for years. i still remember one big barrel at burleigh on it. it threw so wide a mini bus could have fit in it.

i remember paddling back out to a mate and my hands were shaking, i thought i was about to overdose on adrenalin. and we just looked at one another and he said, "who needs to take drugs when you can do that." he was an ex speed addict who got into surfing as an adult. from such a hardcore drug and skate background he picked up surfing in months, and was charging some of the heaviest water around here has to offer.

last i heard his wife left him and took the kids with her because he found his way onto the meth program. the irony was he got back on the gear by hocking the two or three boards i gave him over the years. one of them was the 6'9" black beauty.

it'd be at some nerang/ southport cashies i'd imagine.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Mon Feb 26, 2018 11:50 am

That's a story with plenty of highs and a horrible low.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by crabmeat thompson » Mon Feb 26, 2018 12:56 pm

Drugs have claimed so many people in these parts.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Mon Feb 26, 2018 1:14 pm

I haven't been to the Gold Coast since the mid eighties. I've heard different stories about it. Like it has a menacing feel when you are out after 11pm. But like said I don't know and that sounds like bollocks.
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I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Mon Feb 26, 2018 3:53 pm

Good to know. I was wondering how they went
Beanpole wrote:
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I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Rustt » Mon Feb 26, 2018 4:20 pm

How is this, this would have been terrifying. But he kept his cool, surprised he had the energy to talk afterwards. https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... cks-nazare

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:32 pm

crabmeat thompson wrote:
Mon Feb 26, 2018 11:01 am
best 'big' wave board for around here ever, the 6'9" black beauty.

that was my cadillac at burleigh and currumbin for years. i still remember one big barrel at burleigh on it. it threw so wide a mini bus could have fit in it.

i remember paddling back out to a mate and my hands were shaking, i thought i was about to overdose on adrenalin. and we just looked at one another and he said, "who needs to take drugs when you can do that." he was an ex speed addict who got into surfing as an adult. from such a hardcore drug and skate background he picked up surfing in months, and was charging some of the heaviest water around here has to offer.

last i heard his wife left him and took the kids with her because he found his way onto the meth program. the irony was he got back on the gear by hocking the two or three boards i gave him over the years. one of them was the 6'9" black beauty.

it'd be at some nerang/ southport cashies i'd imagine.
I had a 6’9 black beauty for a couple of years. Snapped it in half at six foot voodoo. Got caught out by a set paddling back out after take a right (there’s no channel if you go right at voodoo).

Still miss that board. Amongst the many sessions on it down here, also had an insane go out on it at head and half high south straddie. Countless barrels. Such an easy board to ride. So smooth. That rocker, the vee bottom, that hard rail running full length. Such a distinct planshape. I’m yet to see or surf any other step up board that compares to it.
Sniff wrote:
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Not enough for a full handbeak
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:35 pm

RCJ lucky to be alive
Beanpole wrote:
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I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:36 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:32 pm
crabmeat thompson wrote:
Mon Feb 26, 2018 11:01 am
best 'big' wave board for around here ever, the 6'9" black beauty.

that was my cadillac at burleigh and currumbin for years. i still remember one big barrel at burleigh on it. it threw so wide a mini bus could have fit in it.

i remember paddling back out to a mate and my hands were shaking, i thought i was about to overdose on adrenalin. and we just looked at one another and he said, "who needs to take drugs when you can do that." he was an ex speed addict who got into surfing as an adult. from such a hardcore drug and skate background he picked up surfing in months, and was charging some of the heaviest water around here has to offer.

last i heard his wife left him and took the kids with her because he found his way onto the meth program. the irony was he got back on the gear by hocking the two or three boards i gave him over the years. one of them was the 6'9" black beauty.

it'd be at some nerang/ southport cashies i'd imagine.
I had a 6’9 black beauty for a couple of years. Snapped it in half at six foot voodoo. Got caught out by a set paddling back out after take a right (there’s no channel if you go right at voodoo).

Still miss that board. Amongst the many sessions on it down here, also had an insane go out on it at head and half high south straddie. Countless barrels. Such an easy board to ride. So smooth. That rocker, the vee bottom, that hard rail running full length. Such a distinct planshape. I’m yet to see or surf any other step up board that compares to it.
The old stock black beauties weren't as high volume as they are now were they?
The stock dims are 20 1/4, 2 7/8
Seems real beefy.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:37 pm

It was beefy. So was I then at 88kg. Now I’d be looking for the stock 6’6
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Mon Feb 26, 2018 6:35 pm

buddy wrote:
Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:36 pm

The old stock black beauties weren't as high volume as they are now were they?
The stock dims are 20 1/4, 2 7/8
Seems real beefy.

Exactly, the new ones are heaps more high volume.

I hate that about current board models/volume. They beef them up so quickly.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Feb 26, 2018 6:41 pm

Thud wrote:
Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:35 pm
RCJ lucky to be alive
He copped a caning in the video.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Mon Feb 26, 2018 6:51 pm

10 years ago you'd call it a mini mal.

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PeepeelaPew
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by PeepeelaPew » Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:26 pm

...
Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sun Aug 04, 2019 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:42 pm

You gotta stay small guys, preferably under 30l.

How the fcuk else am I going to get any waves?
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:47 pm

The rush to smaller boards has definitely been one of the best things to happen over the last 10 years.

Really, its the only way to establish your credentials as a hard core surfer.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:52 pm

Very true.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Skipper » Mon Feb 26, 2018 11:58 pm

Rustt wrote:
Mon Feb 26, 2018 4:20 pm
How is this, this would have been terrifying. But he kept his cool, surprised he had the energy to talk afterwards. https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... cks-nazare
"that's it for me this Nazare season, think I might go look at some castles"

lol.

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