Just general surfing stuff

[alakaboo]

I rode a 6'10" or so in California. Only a few waves, back when I was still learning, but it was an easy board to surf.

[Thud]

Hmmm, I'd say they are much harder to surf well than standard tris or quads. But it's all personal. Good for the power surfer. V8 rather than F1.

[Nick Carroll]

I bet Nick has a few.

I have had a few, only got one at present, a 12’0” PSV

Dave is really good at the “hard” planing curve, I think he got a lot out of Rusty’s early to mid 80s square squash thrusters, they had really subtle curves.

[tootr]

I emailed him re some info. on the PSV/glider type boards and he very generously wrote back with a bunch of thoughts about the design essentials.
As it happened I managed to find a second hand glider instead of having one made.

[steve shearer]

Magic Seaweed says it's 10.5 ft building to 15ft at Lennox .
Surf forecast says it's 5400kj.


Surf is about 2-3ft, slopey S swell.

[BA]

Let it go Steve.

Poo final is on. Medina seems pretty inoffensive these days. But for some reason I still can’t stand him. Go Big O.

[foamy]

Magic Seaweed says it's 10.5 ft building to 15ft at Lennox .
Surf forecast says it's 5400kj.


Surf is about 2-3ft, slopey S swell.

Magic Seaweed says the breaking wave at Ballina is 4-6 imperial feet, that's 2-3 surfer feet.
Peaking at 7-10 imperial feet at noon then dropping in the arvo. I wonder if that's pretty spot on.

[steve shearer]

For where Foamy?

Ballina is a shire, not a surf spot. There are 20-30 surf spots in Ballina shire.

Lennox is an actual surf spot.

[steve shearer]

According to Magic Seaweed it's 0-1ft at Broken head.

[steve shearer]

Pretty big spread. 15ft to 0-1ft.

[steve shearer]

Not being too harsh, as Nick explained, the east coast is an absolute bitch to forecast for.

I pulled a 7'6" out from under the house yesterday, I'll be riding a 5'6".

[foamy]

Yep, particularly such a southerly swell, I suppose.
Dr Tony Butt seems to be Magic Seaweed's head man for NSW. Legend, big wave charger and author of the book 'Surf Science' that you recently recommended. He lives a long way away, of course.

[Cranked]

They get it equally wrong on the bukit which I imagine would be the easiest location in the world to forecast.

Sometimes they are out by hours or days, rarely, but it seems more often over the last year or so, the swell doesn't arrive at all.

My rough score rating for surfforecast on the bukit is they get it correct to within 25% (for timing and size) 75% of the time, if that makes sense.

[steve shearer]

Yep, particularly such a southerly swell, I suppose.
Dr Tony Butt seems to be Magic Seaweed's head man for NSW. Legend, big wave charger and author of the book 'Surf Science' that you recently recommended. He lives a long way away, of course.

Yeah I read his spiel on this swell.

I think the problem is that swells here are locally generated in the Tasman sea and as Nick alluded to, a lot of things can go wrong.
In a very short space of time.


So what Tony Butt wrote about based on the prog charts didn't really happen in reality.

[The Mighty Sunbird]

Therefore the kilojoules are more correct?

[steve shearer]

no, equally wrong. Just with a different measurement attached.

[offshore1]

So what is that really, waist to chest, chest to head?
Give me something I can use here.

[steve shearer]

head high....bit more than that now.
Heading out now.