Just general surfing stuff

Can't find the right forum, then post your general surf-related remarks here!

Moderators: jimmy, collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, beach_defender, Shari, Forum Moderators

User avatar
marauding mullet
Duke Status
Posts: 11411
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:13 pm
Location: an upside down valiant

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by marauding mullet » Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:46 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 1:32 pm
just to drop the fcuken hammer again

I've been on a transition surf movie bender and that seq of MP at Kirra on Morning of the Earth is still a complete jaw dropper. Go to 43min and something on here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ak-ZsAB ... ture=share

Like four years before this was shot, pretty much every surfer in the world was riding loggers. Now, MP, 19 years old and just crackling with energy and style, is lining up Kirra like a gunslinger. You can just smell the surfing being invented as it happens on screen.

It's funny eh Alby just kind of stumbled across the day this was shot, it wasn't set up at all. And the ftg is not at all nostalgic, it's just kind of raw and brilliant.
1971, can’t help but notice how much he uses the middle and front of the deck. Wasn’t til 10 years later I first surfed Kirra, had it like that many times tho, and I was standing middle and front a lot too. Suited Kirra.
petulance wrote: 01100100 01101001 01100111 01101001 01110100 01100001 01101100 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011
Lucky Al wrote:
Fri Aug 18, 2023 10:07 pm
You're a spazz Mighty Sunbird.

Drailed
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 22919
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2014 11:07 am

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Drailed » Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:55 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:44 pm
this isn't about you hatchnam. This is about drailed. ha ha my spell check tried to change it to "drained"
dont lie, your spell check didnt write that at all.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15051
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:57 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:37 pm
I'll even lend you my new board

Image

hang on no I won't.
That looks serious Nick. Where's it for? Dimensions?
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68000
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Wed Feb 13, 2019 5:06 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:33 pm
my god this site is a Kook Haven isn't it

I mean drailed stand up for god's sake.
This is the part where I say that my first store bought board was the same MP Model he rides in MOTE. A Joe Larkin Ski Free. He was still tooling around Kirra Car Park on a dragstar Pushie. Kind of around the time he went to Bells for the first time.

My dad wouldn't take me to Byron to buy a San Juan cause they were druggoes. He thought Joe was more conservative. So I got an MP :lol:

Jimmy Gamboa riding a hull at Rincon looks like he's channeling MP.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

User avatar
foamy
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 7876
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 6:46 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Wed Feb 13, 2019 5:08 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Fri Nov 16, 2018 11:24 am
Fcuk! I just got a crazy board shaped

9'8" x 20.5" x 3.5" Christenson off a Twig file, low entry to foiled vee bottom pintail quad.

Chris lives the classic gypsy shaper's life, orders collect at various points on the globe, he comes into town and tunes in with the machine etc, finish shapes a pile of boards, then depending on what's happening either heads off to the next port of call or goes into re-design mode. I think he's off to the Goldie now. Meanwhile he's left me this thing, a full on bombie killing spear.

It looks great, Nick.

User avatar
The Mighty Sunbird
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 22809
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:43 pm
Location: Pogo's

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:10 pm

Image

Yeah watch out loofy, we’s comin to get ya!!
Erase.

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:25 pm

Cranked wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:57 pm

That looks serious Nick. Where's it for? Dimensions?
see foamy's re-post above. It's for where fcuken ever. Germans? Various other bombies? Down south? Maybe big Cloudbreak. Just for sorta round here though.

Drailed
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 22919
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2014 11:07 am

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Drailed » Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:32 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:25 pm
Cranked wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:57 pm

That looks serious Nick. Where's it for? Dimensions?
see foamy's re-post above. It's for where fcuken ever. Germans? Various other bombies? Down south? Maybe big Cloudbreak. Just for sorta round here though.
Didnt Shearer have one of those for 4ft Cloudbreak
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68000
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:54 pm

The Mighty Sunbird wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:10 pm
Image

Yeah watch out loofy, we’s comin to get ya!!
That one has stripes on the top doesn't it?

Looks about as well designed as my backyard, The Mighty.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:43 pm

Drailed wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:32 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:25 pm
Cranked wrote:
Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:57 pm

That looks serious Nick. Where's it for? Dimensions?
see foamy's re-post above. It's for where fcuken ever. Germans? Various other bombies? Down south? Maybe big Cloudbreak. Just for sorta round here though.
Didnt Shearer have one of those for 4ft Cloudbreak
What do I care drained. The Longtard has fled the building. 4’ Cloudbreak is for American adult learners. And so the kooky world turns.

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68000
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:33 pm

....and senior surfers :-D-:
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

alakaboo
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 22602
Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:33 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by alakaboo » Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:41 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:20 pm
steve shearer wrote:
Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:34 pm
I saw a guy on a new Christenson get so rag-dolled on the rock-off on Sunday.

Why do you think he is the best designer in the world Nick?
He seems to be able to design and shape pretty much anything, from supergun paddle-in craft for Jaws etc (see Greg Long, numerous others) to classic Fish and longboards, to epic tube riding 6' plus pintails, without missing a beat. Like really without missing a beat. Every single good surfer I know who has one or more of his boards, and this is right across the spectrum of those designs, kind of slightly drools when the subject comes up. All the boards I've seen of his, from Greg's Eddie winning quiver of 2009 to an 8'0" semi longboard he shaped for my brother's partner to a bunch of different craft I've seen in CA and here, including several six channel swallows I saw today, just reeked of pure class, wonderful combinations of rocker, outline, foil and bottom lines. On this basis I am willing to trust his skills beyond any other shaper right now for a board I want to ride at the edge of my capabilities, in Sydney area surf barely anyone has yet ridden. So I am voting with my money and my sense of what's required for those waves.

I should add I think there's a few other designers who are in that kind of league, like Pat Rawson can do all that for sure, Stu Kenson in CA, Gunther Rohn, here in Oz I think Wayne Webster is pretty much the closest thing we have to a true across the board super designer. But yeah, I do think Chris is the guy right now.
We'll Nick after a couple of weeks riding powder and piste in Japan I can tell you he makes a pretty fcuking amazing powder snowboard as well.

https://www.jonessnowboards.com/en-US/g ... ander.html

User avatar
jimmy
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 5621
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:12 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by jimmy » Thu Feb 14, 2019 9:35 pm

I’ve got to go to Singapore in a few weeks for work and am going to have a week surfing on the way back. Was gonna come back through Bali and see where the waves are but seeing as I’m further West I’d thought I’d check out some land based options on Sumatra to minimise travel time.
Was thinking about Banda Aceh but also after any recommendations/ advice on places further South.
Hatchnam wrote:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 1:13 pm
How about tame down the scatter gun must consecutively post on every thread behaviour you compulsive mongoloid.
swvic wrote:
Mon Feb 01, 2021 11:54 pm
Actually, that’s interesting. Take note, beanpole

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15051
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:50 pm

I think everywhere in Indo is a bit hit and miss at that time Jimmy.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
marauding mullet
Duke Status
Posts: 11411
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:13 pm
Location: an upside down valiant

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by marauding mullet » Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:51 pm

jimmy wrote:
Thu Feb 14, 2019 9:35 pm
I’ve got to go to Singapore in a few weeks for work and am going to have a week surfing on the way back. Was gonna come back through Bali and see where the waves are but seeing as I’m further West I’d thought I’d check out some land based options on Sumatra to minimise travel time.
Was thinking about Banda Aceh but also after any recommendations/ advice on places further South.
http://forum.realsurf.com/forum/viewtop ... 3&start=36 This thread, pages 3,4 and 5 I posted some stuff about the surf camp cluster just south of Krui. Right in front of a left hander, other waves around with a scooter. Laid back vibe, friendly people. Swell magnet
petulance wrote: 01100100 01101001 01100111 01101001 01110100 01100001 01101100 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011
Lucky Al wrote:
Fri Aug 18, 2023 10:07 pm
You're a spazz Mighty Sunbird.

User avatar
jimmy
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 5621
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:12 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by jimmy » Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:59 pm

I know Cranky. Was just after some advice about cool places to stay that people might have been to. I’m not paying for flights and only spend cash on accommodation. Thought Acheh would be cool because 15 years ago they lost 250,000 people which was a large proportion of their population. And like the idea of going somewhere that is not one of the usual surf destinations.
Hatchnam wrote:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 1:13 pm
How about tame down the scatter gun must consecutively post on every thread behaviour you compulsive mongoloid.
swvic wrote:
Mon Feb 01, 2021 11:54 pm
Actually, that’s interesting. Take note, beanpole

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15051
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Fri Feb 15, 2019 8:30 am

You can go to Sumba with Salty and the other realsurf reprobates
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Feb 15, 2019 10:21 am

well OK it's getting more realer now

Image

the longtard must be shitting himself.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 58 guests