Just general surfing stuff

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Wed Sep 19, 2018 9:20 pm

got it. He's a goofy foot. Somehow the film on YouTube is shot the other way
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

buddy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Wed Sep 19, 2018 9:24 pm

I know that's what you were after but I have a feeling everyone in here would have noticed that ;)

He does have a great style.

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Wed Sep 19, 2018 10:05 pm

Just testing
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Sep 20, 2018 6:10 am

Thud wrote:
Wed Sep 19, 2018 1:48 pm
https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... g-drowning

20% of surfers self report that they cannot or are weak swimmers in the surf. Must be a large foreign contingent I'm guessing or older surfers who don't live near the water who dabble now and again.
That’s an underestimate I reckon. There’ll be a gap between people who can barely swim and people who are willing to admit it.

There’s probably also a gap betweeen the surfers at most patrolled beaches and those at unpatrolled locations.

Current biggest cause of death while surfing worldwide? Heart attack.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Sep 20, 2018 6:11 am

Thud wrote:
Wed Sep 19, 2018 8:22 pm

Rob Machado has lovely style. Is style underrated today?
Not if you consider his endorsement contracts, Rob’s been pulling vast fortunes for over a decade based solely on that lovely style

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BA
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Thu Sep 20, 2018 6:15 am

Rob’s one of my favourite all-time surfers.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Sep 20, 2018 6:39 am

He flows and connects effortlessly without all the ugly tic-tac two-step stuff.
Sniff wrote:
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Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Thu Sep 20, 2018 6:57 am

Speaking of surfers who are weak swimmers, Rob Machado.

As reported by Chas Smith in Beach Grit.
The conversation turned, slightly, toward having enough general sense to be able to survive. Rob said, “I don’t even know how to swim but if you drop me at second reef Pipe I’m sure I’ll figure out how to get to the beach.”

“Really?” I responded “You really don’t know how to swim?”

“I mean kind of…” he said, “…but not well at all.”

And how’s that. Rob Machado can’t swim well. He is a Pipeline Master.

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Thu Sep 20, 2018 9:30 am

Before legropes everyone was fitter. A lot of quality breaks like Lennox didn't have many takers either.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

Slobadan Madicubich
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Slobadan Madicubich » Thu Sep 20, 2018 7:10 pm

Some things probably in Rob's favour
Excellent lung capacity
Can float
Understands currents
Fitness
Calm demeanour
Resting heart rate of about 10 b.p.m.

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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:26 am

Very good article by Sean Doherty about JJF and a quick trip to King Island with Rasta.

https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Drailed » Fri Sep 21, 2018 11:23 am

foamy wrote:
Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:26 am
Very good article by Sean Doherty about JJF and a quick trip to King Island with Rasta.

https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/
"Very good" You reckon? They tried to write it as though Florence is some kind of fccckn mythical figure. Boring as batshit.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by carvin marvin » Fri Sep 21, 2018 12:25 pm

Drailed wrote:
Fri Sep 21, 2018 11:23 am
foamy wrote:
Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:26 am
Very good article by Sean Doherty about JJF and a quick trip to King Island with Rasta.

https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/
"Very good" You reckon? They tried to write it as though Florence is some kind of fccckn mythical figure. Boring as batshit.
Then there is the question are flow hives ethical, alot of beekeepers think you could be reprograming the bee not to make the honeycombs.

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PeepeelaPew
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by PeepeelaPew » Fri Sep 21, 2018 4:11 pm

...
Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Sun Sep 23, 2018 2:47 pm

Nick, much to do with Salt in the Blood?

On National Geo Channel 8.30 Monday, I think
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Sun Sep 23, 2018 7:53 pm

Nothing. I dunno anything about it.

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Sun Sep 23, 2018 9:15 pm

"Salt In The Blood, a short film documenting parts of Tom Carrolls life and how the exhibition came to be pulled together was screened at the launch of the Torquay exhibition. Within the first few minutes of the film I was welling up as Tom's words of being embraced by the ocean when times were tough struck a nerve with me. It is a beautiful short film that surfers, photographers and anyone with an appreciation for creative freedom will enjoy."
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Fri Oct 05, 2018 10:52 am

New book about Keith Paul out. Hope it's a good read. One smooth surfer.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

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