Just general surfing stuff

[Beanpole]

Legendary nuisance at least....
My carver is pretty perfect for snaring waves out there....plus it's been whacked and repaired so many times.

[crabmeat thompson]

So you're not on board with Geoff McCoys designs since the early eighties then Brian?

Once you're up and riding you don't need the width and volume at the front of the board, its there for paddling power and catching waves, after that it just gets in the way.

nah. hate them. haha


paddling and catching waves is actually 90% of any surf session. so making a board which benefits the other 10% has never really washed with me.

Plus, it's not you can't use other design methods and still keep you surfing sharp.

flat deck, boxy rails, low entry rocker with a pulled in tail, deep single and higher tail lift, will beef up the turning power and drive of any board, and you can still keep volume and width under the chest with a more forward wide point.

that shape is pure sex. while the old pear shaped heapa. not so much.

[Nick Carroll]

fcuk there is some hilarious slagging going on at Beachgrit right now re Kelly's label winning a SIMA Award

I've been thinking a lot about rumours lately, the way they circulate and the contexts that drive them, and the one about KS riding Simon Andersons painted to look like FWs is a great example of the genre. Rules about Rumours:

1. People have to want them to be true
2. They can never be addressed directly to the person or thing concerned - i.e. the rumour must remain unproven
3. They have to involve a purported lie, or information gap, or bad faith of some kind, which the rumour must apparently address
4. They always involve bad feeling toward something or someone - sometimes the target of the rumour, sometimes tangentially
5. They have to be presented as a Secret, which obtains apparent power to the spreader of the rumour ("I know this")

and I don't totally know about this last one, but suspect that

6. They tell the observer more about the person spreading the rumour than about the target of the rumour.

I dunno if any good ever comes of rumours but they're bloody fascinating things.

[steve shearer]

what are your thoughts given that, about the rumours surrounding Owen?

It seemed as if you gave them some credence. Or felt there was some information gap there. Still feel that way?

[offshore1]

I don't know but I've been told
crozzy's crazy as the Ayatoll

[Davros]

Agree, if you want to spread a fake rumour start off with"look you can't tell anyone" and by the time the rumour gets through 10 pairs of hands it would have mutated into something outrageously plausible. It seems to happen a lot amongst surgeons and specialists as the competition for theatre space is at an all time high in the private system.

[Nick Carroll]

what are your thoughts given that, about the rumours surrounding Owen?

It seemed as if you gave them some credence. Or felt there was some information gap there. Still feel that way?

Well I've been digging around filling the information gap a bit for myself, plus Sean did a good piece in SW. The rumour there, when I heard it, really shocked me and it is what got me interested in rumours, or thinking about them. Some of the off the record conversations I've had with people have been super fascinating and quite revealing about the nature of rumours generally and this one specifically, and also about the current pro surfing culture, which seems to me to be a matrix of concealment more than anything. Even my own reaction to it has been instructive. I definitely worry about Owen from a bit of a distance though, everything you read about athlete recovery from traumatic brain injury suggests that re-injury could have really bad consequences down the track.

[crabmeat thompson]

Yeah Paul Kariya's story is really heavy.

Two things you don't mess with, the brain and the back. I guess O is too young and not set up enough to retire and free surf... that would weigh in not walking away from tour.

[Hatchnam]

Ewww

I agree (sorry cranked). The most beautiful looking planshapes and cleanest feeling boards I've surfed have all been variations of an ellipse.

[steve shearer]

I don't think anyone needs to apologise to Cranked over the aesthetics of his board choices. If that's his only vice- riding shit ugly pop-outs- he's doing OK.

[Beerfan]

The extra daylight hours have softened Steves heart

[Cranked]

Form follows function, I've got no problem with the shape at all. I'm pretty sure the wide nosed boards won't be as good once I'm up and riding (I've been down this path before), but I'm prepared to sacrifice quality for quantity.

Geoff McCoy uses that plan shape and solves the extra difficulty of paddling/wave catching by adding a shit load of volume. I was catching more waves a few years ago when I had 7' and 7'6 McCoy Nuggets (50 and 60 litres respectively). Only reason for moving on was that I couldn't duck dive them in serious waves, and that was just too dangerous in crowded conditions.

Its always on the cards that I could go back to McCoys

[ctd]

But wide (so wide) McCoy tails in steep/fast waves? Slingshot down the face before you know whats happening?

[Cranked]

But wide (so wide) McCoy tails in steep/fast waves? Slingshot down the face before you know whats happening?

Noooo!

The amount of roll and V between your feet is huge and slows the board down in a drop until you engage the rail, once the rail is engaged the width is irrelevant. They are the nicest board to take a drop with, they naturally do the right thing. It really is an amazing design, right out of left field.

[Davros]

Good point on the duck diving

[batoes]

But wide (so wide) McCoy tails in steep/fast waves? Slingshot down the face before you know whats happening?

Noooo!

The amount of roll and V between your feet is huge and slows the board down in a drop until you engage the rail, once the rail is engaged the width is irrelevant. They are the nicest board to take a drop with, they naturally do the right thing. It really is an amazing design, right out of left field.

i rode one (nugget 5'11) in Tahiti a few years back - Teahupoo and Vairio. Cranked is 100% right, they have no problem in larger, barrelling waves. The reason i moved away from them was Geoff's lack of interest in shaping anything under 3 inches thick. I'd still love to grab a tiny one from him, either a potbelly or astron zot.

[Cranked]

As for the Martin Littlewood Deltas, they looked to me what Geoff McCoy would have done with his Lazor Zap if he'd been into concaves. Screw the stepped deck though, that is ugly and unnecessary.

I had the 6'6 for a year. It was a bit under volumed for me, maybe 37 litres, but it went really well when I caught waves. The 6'9 I bought about 6 months ago, it went well too, but it didn't go nearly as well as my Stretch F4, neither on the face nor when catching waves, so there was no problem trading them for something else.

And really, the 6'6 was no match for the 6'6 Byrne Michael Baron Fish, again one of the best boards I've ever ridden.

[Davros]

Here's a review on the F4 from 10 years ago which seems like 400 years ago, "the nose and tail are fuller" not compared to boards today. sick clip attached

https://www.google.com.au/amp/s/surfd.c ... board/amp/