Just general surfing stuff

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Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Sat Jul 28, 2018 11:09 am

That articles been around for a while. I was thinking that when we were in Fiji which is pretty well organised. Paddled back to the boat at Namotu and I couldn't work out which boat was ours. Ended up getting onto another boat that took me to the island. Trouble was I wasn't staying there. He took me back and I eventually found the boat. Everyone was snorkelling so no one was onboard.

When I snapped my rental at Cloudbreak they were pointing in across the reef for me to get the half that snapped off. I couldn't see it. I paddled out to the boat on half a surfboard but they took off to get the broken piece of board leaving me out in the middle of the reef. Got on another boat to wait.
Both these cases were just silly but if anything had actually gone wrong I reckon I could easily be fcuked up out there and a long way from immediate medical attention. Guess the resorts are close.

Kind of similar when I was surfing Hyatt Reef with my son when he was fairly little. He decided he wanted to go in after a while. Our boat had gone back to shore and the boat that happened to come out with someone else wasn't keen on taking us in.
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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Mon Jul 30, 2018 11:20 am

Read an interesting article about Mark Richards and his back issues. He has a long trunk and short legs which has led to major back issues throughout his career.

Got me pondering the question. What is the best build for a person who surfs a lot. Any opinions?
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Jul 30, 2018 8:04 pm

Long torso with stumpy bandy legs like a jockey has always been an asset....or at least not a deterant to a career in surfing.
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BA
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Mon Jul 30, 2018 8:26 pm

Thud wrote:
Mon Jul 30, 2018 11:20 am
Read an interesting article about Mark Richards and his back issues. He has a long trunk and short legs which has led to major back issues throughout his career.

Got me pondering the question. What is the best build for a person who surfs a lot. Any opinions?
That’s my build. Didn’t know until I got professionally fitted for a road bike. They said it made things difficult getting the right frame. Haven’t had any back issues touch wood.

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Mon Jul 30, 2018 9:02 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Mon Jul 30, 2018 8:04 pm
Long torso with stumpy bandy legs like a jockey has always been an asset....or at least not a deterant to a career in surfing.
Not according to MR
Beanpole wrote:
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I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavetheking » Mon Jul 30, 2018 9:07 pm

Apparently people with long trunks and short legs are less attractive to women and have unfavourable health outcomes
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Mon Jul 30, 2018 9:13 pm

Are you talking about Mr snuffaluffagus?
Beanpole wrote:
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Jul 30, 2018 9:25 pm

Thud wrote:
Mon Jul 30, 2018 9:02 pm
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Jul 30, 2018 8:04 pm
Long torso with stumpy bandy legs like a jockey has always been an asset....or at least not a deterant to a career in surfing.
Not according to MR
That would be the World Champ MR?
MR never actually struck me as being that particular build. Unlike Occy for example. I guess style and posture are at play.
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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Mon Jul 30, 2018 11:09 pm

Yes, Mark Richards.
Beanpole wrote:
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I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

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Trev
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Fri Aug 03, 2018 6:47 am

One for boo

A SUNSHINE Coast university professor has been granted $1 million to find new ways to manage Australia's changing coastlines.

Professor Tim Smith, from USC's Sustainability Research Centre, will undertake a four-year Future Fellowship after he was allocated the funding by The Australian Research Council.

USC will contribute an additional $662,000 to the study.

Prof Smith said current strategies to manage problems like urbanisation and sea level rises were not working, and short-term solutions like seawalls were simply delaying the inevitable.

"Despite decades of coastal management, we are still failing to effectively respond to changes, and so the condition of the world's coasts continues to decline,” Prof Smith said.

"Quick fixes are not working, so it is imperative and urgent that we learn to become more adaptive and to embrace the uncertainty that lies ahead.”

Prof Smith aims to discover more adaptive solutions to climate change, population growth and urban development that could dramatically alter the way governments, councils and decision-makers respond.

"We hope to chart a new direction by embracing vulnerability and change to radically alter the theory and practice of climate change adaptation and coastal management,” he said.

The study will consider numerous factors including sea level rises, increased intensity of extreme events such as storm surges and flooding, rural-urban transitions, population growth and increased human consumption.

"The Australian coast is home to over 20 million Australians and intrinsically linked to our economy, industry, biodiversity, arts, lifestyle and cultural identity,” Prof Smith said.

"The way we adapt to this new future is going to be critical if we want to maintain our lifestyles and our livelihoods.

"Sea walls may be a quick fix, but they won't answer how we live with coastal change long-term and they won't allow our communities to build the resilience and flexibility for the change that lies ahead.”

The project will also employ a post-doctoral fellow and two PhD students. It builds on collaborations with Uppsala University in Sweden and RAND Corporation in the United States.

Prof Smith, Executive Dean of USC's Faculty of Arts, Business and Law, is on the International Scientific Steering committee of Future Earth Coasts and is a lead author of the next Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by alakaboo » Fri Aug 03, 2018 7:01 am

Cheers Trev.
Tim's a good guy, very clever. Sounds like a great project, and that's a difficult grant to win.
I'll keep an eye out for any job ads.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Aug 03, 2018 9:20 am

We could start by not building any more permanent structures within 250m of a high tide line.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by alakaboo » Fri Aug 03, 2018 9:42 am

That horse has bolted, Nick.

And the majority of the east coast already has that policy, and has done for almost 10 years.
Implementation is another matter entirely, due to the domination of local governments (and state government donors) by developers, and politicians too scared to set a precedent.

And lol at permanent.
Most structures are built with a 30 year planning horizon, due to archaic assumptions about economic growth and the age of housing stock.
Start by fixing the discount rate used in policy appraisal.

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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sat Aug 04, 2018 10:45 am

This is the video the WSL posted to announce that Caroline Marks won her US Open Rd 1 heat beating Sally and Bronte. This must be one of Caroline's best waves of the heat. I wonder if this is the type of thrills surfing will be offering Olympics viewers at Chiba.
https://mobile.twitter.com/wsl/status/1 ... 84/video/1

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Sat Aug 04, 2018 11:00 am

foamy wrote:
Sat Aug 04, 2018 10:45 am
This is the video the WSL posted to announce that Caroline Marks won her US Open Rd 1 heat beating Sally and Bronte. This must be one of Caroline's best waves of the heat. I wonder if this is the type of thrills surfing will be offering Olympics viewers at Chiba.
https://mobile.twitter.com/wsl/status/1 ... 84/video/1
Oh shit, the commentary vs. the actuality.

I think surfers who pivot their turns instead of carving them should have points deducted.
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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sat Aug 04, 2018 12:20 pm

The WSL drops this clip of a winning wave in Tatiana's exciting Rd 2 win.
https://mobile.twitter.com/wsl/status/1 ... 24/video/1

p.s. I'm not bagging women's surfing. It's just we are seeing what peak surfing looks like in poor waves. The harsher critics of the wave pool should perhaps be studying these clips.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Sat Aug 04, 2018 12:29 pm

Watch 80s footage of Occ or Tom Carroll in the same conditions and it's so much better than that.

Still shit to watch those conditions either way though.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Sat Aug 04, 2018 12:30 pm

Cranked wrote:
Sat Aug 04, 2018 11:00 am
foamy wrote:
Sat Aug 04, 2018 10:45 am
This is the video the WSL posted to announce that Caroline Marks won her US Open Rd 1 heat beating Sally and Bronte. This must be one of Caroline's best waves of the heat. I wonder if this is the type of thrills surfing will be offering Olympics viewers at Chiba.
https://mobile.twitter.com/wsl/status/1 ... 84/video/1
Oh shit, the commentary vs. the actuality.

I think surfers who pivot their turns instead of carving them should have points deducted.
How exactly would you perform a good carving turn in that dross?

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