Just general surfing stuff

[steve shearer]

Did you watch the whole xxckrn thing?
Do you get an unsociable work hours bonus?

Good read. I didn't watch any of it.

Got up at 2am.

watched up to the women.

[steve shearer]

Beautiful work Steve.

But when are social d playing and can I see it?
Can you call kelly and ask him for me?

Carroll is there...he must have the program.

[Thud]

The darkest day in surfing.

The high point of surfing is man in lock step with nature. Waves are gifts from gods for humans to dance upon.

It's spitting in the face of the ancients who connected with the ocean all those years past.

Its destroying art.

It's like book burning

They are a ship of fools

[Drailed]

Good write up Steve.

[steve shearer]

thanks Loof, I thought you might have beef with the King Lear reference.

[Drailed]

Never beef with you brother, you are one of my favourites.

[tootr]

He’s never heard of King Lear either.

[Thud]

Yes, good article.

[Nick Carroll]

The darkest day in surfing.

The high point of surfing is man in lock step with nature. Waves are gifts from gods for humans to dance upon.

It's spitting in the face of the ancients who connected with the ocean all those years past.

Its destroying art.

It's like book burning

They are a ship of fools

I do think one thing, they oughta stop showing actual proper waves on the broadcast, because when they pop up you just get a shiver of recognition

It is the ultimate Westernisation of something that once had nothing to do with any Western ideas of anything, which is why many of us embraced it. Oh the irony! We wanted freedom and they’ve turned it into a pond with a metal machine attached.

But ya know, these people don’t have power over us in any way. I’m still able to be interested, maybe partly because I don’t feel bound to it, like nothing is owed and nothing paid. I’ll come home from here, a contest where I can’t surf at all because there is no surf, there are just a certain number of waves meted out to the pros and to whichever commentators can wangle their way into the three wave pre-heat pool “warmup”, and then I’ll go surfing again, however the fcuk I want, for free.

[offshore1]

Not at Trestles when the girls longboard comp is running.

[steve shearer]

That argument: oh this doesn't affect me.....could be right on, or could be incredibly myopic.

Too early to tell.

You have to at least allow for the possibility of an armada of unintended consequences sailing in from the future.

But that vital fact: that Nick Carroll surf journalist is 100 miles from the ocean and can't surf, has to stand under the shade of the trees with the other plebs is actually the most interesting to me .....I'd love to hear Nick explore that.

[offshore1]

I'm interested to know more about the indigenous surf culture of the place.
That's what's cool about Tahiti, Fiji, West Oz, Portugal, North Shore.

[offshore1]

Remember when you were a grommet learning to surf? Took dozens if not hundreds of sessions.
Seems to me that the price per wave in the pools would be a daunting obstacle for most kids.

And,

Where's the water for Occy"s ocean going to come from?
Looks pretty fcukn dry up there.

[Nick Carroll]

That argument: oh this doesn't affect me.....could be right on, or could be incredibly myopic.

Too early to tell.

You have to at least allow for the possibility of an armada of unintended consequences sailing in from the future.

But that vital fact: that Nick Carroll surf journalist is 100 miles from the ocean and can't surf, has to stand under the shade of the trees with the other plebs is actually the most interesting to me .....I'd love to hear Nick explore that.

I dunno, there’s no plebs up here. It’s the first “public” day so there’s a bunch of VIPs. I guess these are Californian Plebs: well-heeled looking people with office tans, trying to look “surfer”. There’s a handful of groms who are infinitely the most excited people in the region. It made me think of something but I’ll keep it for elsewhere

[crabmeat thompson]

my take.
boredom not rehearsed.
https://beachgrit.com/2018/09/surf-ranc ... hours-max/

i enjoyed this, particularly the king lear reference.

one of the greatest freedoms i've felt was that moment when i took over editing SL and it occurred to me, i'll never have to write another wsl recap ever again. don't get me wrong, I enjoyed the gruelling slog of covering a (sometimes) two week event. The physical and emotional onslaught of such a task is a thing very few people understand. And this is when it was the ASP, and it was kinda actually fun; i had times where I couldn't believe people paid me to do it.

... but to be able to perform in today's wsl landscape is more akin to being waterboarded for two weeks straight. and that was before the pool was even invented.

[Nick Carroll]

Btw I have been affected by this, it just doesn’t have any power over my own surfing experience. I didn’t think about it for a moment during that swell last week, and while I might think about it for five minutes when I next paddle out somewhere, the first couple of waves will wash it out of my head pretty quick.

My visceral response to it, ie that I will never pay some cnut to make me a wave because it runs counter to everything I feel about surfing, hasn’t shifted even a tiny bit, nor has it really hardened, because that (pay per wave) is in no way being inflicted on me, and almost certainly never will.

I guess what I am saying is it’s a choice, I’m gonna be infinitely more affected by other stuff re surfing, the coming 10,000-home development along the Ingleside escarpment which will put around that many new surfers in the beaches around my home. That’s fcuken impact. Though maybe some of them will go to the pool that keeps not being built at Olympic Park I guess. So there’s that.

[steve shearer]

is there a crowd there?

there's zero sense of crowd involvement on the broadcast.

it's so weird.

[crabmeat thompson]

is there a crowd there?

at some point someone in the wsl brains trust will catch on that people aren't interested in surfing unless:

• They surf, and it is a core part of their life where places like Jbay and Cloudbreak are appreciated. ie the mainstream are so dyslexic about what constitutes good surfing or a good wave and acknowledge the rarity of good, perfect conditions at these locations.

which leads me to what the mainstream can grapple with:

• The waves are big and death defying - tahiti and pipe.