Just general surfing stuff

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Fri Sep 07, 2018 3:17 pm

Occurs involved? Has to be a success. Not
Ultimately a hero is a man who would argue with the gods, and so awakens devils to contest his vision.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Fri Sep 07, 2018 3:49 pm

I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

buddy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Fri Sep 07, 2018 4:10 pm

Did you watch the whole xxckrn thing?
Do you get an unsociable work hours bonus?

Good read. I didn't watch any of it.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Fri Sep 07, 2018 4:13 pm

Beautiful work Steve.

But when are social d playing and can I see it?
Can you call kelly and ask him for me?
Erase.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Fri Sep 07, 2018 4:18 pm

buddy wrote:
Fri Sep 07, 2018 4:10 pm
Did you watch the whole xxckrn thing?
Do you get an unsociable work hours bonus?

Good read. I didn't watch any of it.
Got up at 2am.

watched up to the women.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Fri Sep 07, 2018 4:19 pm

The Mighty Sunbird wrote:
Fri Sep 07, 2018 4:13 pm
Beautiful work Steve.

But when are social d playing and can I see it?
Can you call kelly and ask him for me?
Carroll is there...he must have the program.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Fri Sep 07, 2018 4:43 pm

The darkest day in surfing.

The high point of surfing is man in lock step with nature. Waves are gifts from gods for humans to dance upon.

It's spitting in the face of the ancients who connected with the ocean all those years past.

Its destroying art.

It's like book burning

They are a ship of fools
Ultimately a hero is a man who would argue with the gods, and so awakens devils to contest his vision.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Drailed » Fri Sep 07, 2018 5:49 pm

Good write up Steve.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Fri Sep 07, 2018 6:00 pm

thanks Loof, I thought you might have beef with the King Lear reference.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Drailed » Fri Sep 07, 2018 6:12 pm

Never beef with you brother, you are one of my favourites.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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tootr
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by tootr » Fri Sep 07, 2018 6:31 pm

He’s never heard of King Lear either.
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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Fri Sep 07, 2018 7:39 pm

Yes, good article.
Ultimately a hero is a man who would argue with the gods, and so awakens devils to contest his vision.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Sep 08, 2018 1:45 am

Thud wrote:
Fri Sep 07, 2018 4:43 pm
The darkest day in surfing.

The high point of surfing is man in lock step with nature. Waves are gifts from gods for humans to dance upon.

It's spitting in the face of the ancients who connected with the ocean all those years past.

Its destroying art.

It's like book burning

They are a ship of fools
I do think one thing, they oughta stop showing actual proper waves on the broadcast, because when they pop up you just get a shiver of recognition

It is the ultimate Westernisation of something that once had nothing to do with any Western ideas of anything, which is why many of us embraced it. Oh the irony! We wanted freedom and they’ve turned it into a pond with a metal machine attached.

But ya know, these people don’t have power over us in any way. I’m still able to be interested, maybe partly because I don’t feel bound to it, like nothing is owed and nothing paid. I’ll come home from here, a contest where I can’t surf at all because there is no surf, there are just a certain number of waves meted out to the pros and to whichever commentators can wangle their way into the three wave pre-heat pool “warmup”, and then I’ll go surfing again, however the fcuk I want, for free.

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offshore1
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by offshore1 » Sat Sep 08, 2018 3:42 am

Not at Trestles when the girls longboard comp is running.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Sep 08, 2018 5:23 am

That argument: oh this doesn't affect me.....could be right on, or could be incredibly myopic.

Too early to tell.

You have to at least allow for the possibility of an armada of unintended consequences sailing in from the future.

But that vital fact: that Nick Carroll surf journalist is 100 miles from the ocean and can't surf, has to stand under the shade of the trees with the other plebs is actually the most interesting to me .....I'd love to hear Nick explore that.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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offshore1
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by offshore1 » Sat Sep 08, 2018 5:33 am

I'm interested to know more about the indigenous surf culture of the place.
That's what's cool about Tahiti, Fiji, West Oz, Portugal, North Shore.

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offshore1
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by offshore1 » Sat Sep 08, 2018 5:38 am

Remember when you were a grommet learning to surf? Took dozens if not hundreds of sessions.
Seems to me that the price per wave in the pools would be a daunting obstacle for most kids.

And,

Where's the water for Occy"s ocean going to come from?
Looks pretty fcukn dry up there.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Sep 08, 2018 6:14 am

steve shearer wrote:
Sat Sep 08, 2018 5:23 am
That argument: oh this doesn't affect me.....could be right on, or could be incredibly myopic.

Too early to tell.

You have to at least allow for the possibility of an armada of unintended consequences sailing in from the future.

But that vital fact: that Nick Carroll surf journalist is 100 miles from the ocean and can't surf, has to stand under the shade of the trees with the other plebs is actually the most interesting to me .....I'd love to hear Nick explore that.
I dunno, there’s no plebs up here. It’s the first “public” day so there’s a bunch of VIPs. I guess these are Californian Plebs: well-heeled looking people with office tans, trying to look “surfer”. There’s a handful of groms who are infinitely the most excited people in the region. It made me think of something but I’ll keep it for elsewhere

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