Just general surfing stuff

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Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Aug 27, 2018 6:38 pm

How's the stuff in the news about "daredevil surfers" grabbing their boards to ride the huge storm surf n Hawaii.

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Wyre
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Wyre » Tue Aug 28, 2018 7:26 am

Hey, so this duck diving with foot rather than knee thing, I need to know more.

Tried it out the other day, but would like some elaboration on technique.

I felt like it put a heap more pressure on my lower back, am I doing it wrong?

I got how effective it is, but a little clarification would be great.
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

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Legion
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Tue Aug 28, 2018 7:39 am

...
Last edited by Legion on Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 28, 2018 8:06 am

There’s a million ways to duckdive. Sometimes the foot is good, sometimes the knee, sometimes the whole flat of the shin, sometimes nothing. You just want to bear the goal in mind, getting under and out the back of the wave as quick and smooth as you can.

Basic things to think about:
- quicker you’re moving into it, the better. Paddle into it. Nothing worse than a standing start duckdive.
- keep it as shallow as the wave allows.
- keep it as “flat”, like horizontal, as you can.

Tips:
- sink the board quicker by turning one rail down slightly at the nose as you duck.
- The knee or foot thing isn’t about pushing down, it just sets the board and keeps it stable underwater, don’t over-work that aspect
- Keep your head down.

Most surfers I see executing not-super-good duckdives are blowing it because they don’t go into ‘em with any paddling speed, and thus lose control of the whole thing under the wave.

If you want to get a better feel for the duckdive, go out through a surf zone without a board, diving under whitewater waves as you go. Chest to waist deep water is good. All the same dynamics are at work, without the board. What works best? All those three basics — going in quick, keeping the dive as shallow and horizontal as you can.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 28, 2018 8:36 am

I went into a shallow, no paddle sideways duck dive the last swell and got the board straight in the nose from the underwater explosion.

It wasn't by choice.

If I'd thrown the board I would have taken someones head off.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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SAsurfa
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by SAsurfa » Tue Aug 28, 2018 9:19 am

Cranked wrote:
Sat Aug 25, 2018 6:54 am

Craig, if as you say, your swellnet model is also incorrect because of this anomoly, and you can recognise the model anomaly easily, this seems to indicate that the factors involved may be sufficient to enable you to code up a patch to recognise and correct the discepancy and modify the swellnet surf forecast appropriately?
It's a Wave Watch Model issue so not easily atm, but hopefully it will continue to improve with each model update.

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Wyre
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Wyre » Tue Aug 28, 2018 9:25 am

Thanks for the advice NC.

My duck dives aren’t too bad, but I always thought it was the deeper the better.

Makes sense to keep it as shallow as wave allows (although sometimes that’s pretty deep!)
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 28, 2018 9:41 am

Oh yeah, sometimes you gotta go deep.

Trouble with going deep when you don't need to is that you waste energy. Everything about moving through surf zones is about minimising effort and saving energy for when you need it.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 28, 2018 10:00 am

going for a surf with Lucky Al!
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 28, 2018 10:17 am

A rare privilege
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 28, 2018 10:22 am

Maybe we'll get to share the lineup one day Cranked?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Tue Aug 28, 2018 10:55 am

steve shearer wrote:
Tue Aug 28, 2018 10:00 am
going for a surf with Lucky Al!
Al rips. Watch that cat swoop and bury rail
godsavethequeen wrote:
Thu Nov 14, 2019 11:55 pm
My beef has always and only been with the realistic range available to the average Sydney working stiff
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 28, 2018 11:35 am

Come to the bukit, I'll line you up with good cheap accommodation for $20/night, a scooter $4/day, introduce you to the local rat pack, Jake Drifter is my next door neighbour. There's a million surf stories waiting to be written, and you can write the whole thing off on expenses. Ask Derek what its like, get an intro to Tim (Uluwatu Surf Villas) so we can use his steps down to temples :-D-:

Fcuk it, just get Derek to line up a villa for you. Pretty sure they would have a few unoccupied
Last edited by Cranked on Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:03 pm

SAsurfa wrote:
Tue Aug 28, 2018 9:19 am
Cranked wrote:
Sat Aug 25, 2018 6:54 am

Craig, if as you say, your swellnet model is also incorrect because of this anomoly, and you can recognise the model anomaly easily, this seems to indicate that the factors involved may be sufficient to enable you to code up a patch to recognise and correct the discepancy and modify the swellnet surf forecast appropriately?
It's a Wave Watch Model issue so not easily atm, but hopefully it will continue to improve with each model update.
How seriously are they working on a solution. There's always priorities for software development and I can't imagine this particular problem would have a very high one.

I'm not sure what API you are using and what level of abstraction, but if you can recognise the anomoly and devise an algorithm from the API below you could program a solution and steal a march on your competitors

"data": {
"Wind_speed_surface": 4.409999847412109,
"Wind_direction_from_which_blowing_surface": 171.86000061035156,
"v-component_of_wind_surface": 4.360000133514404,
"u-component_of_wind_surface": -0.6200000047683716,
"Direction_of_wind_waves_surface": 98.7699966430664,
"Primary_wave_mean_period_surface": 10.760000228881836,
"Primary_wave_direction_surface": 94.48999786376953,
"Significant_height_of_wind_waves_surface": null,
"Mean_period_of_wind_waves_surface": 9.59000015258789,
"Secondary_wave_mean_period_surface": null,
"Significant_height_of_combined_wind_waves_and_swell_surface": 2.1500000953674316,
"Secondary_wave_direction_surface": null
}

Dumping data sets is a pretty shity API, I assume there's better ones.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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ajohnsen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by ajohnsen » Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:18 pm

Cranked, that's porn to Pet. Please provide a work warning for him next time.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:36 pm

Cranked wrote:
Tue Aug 28, 2018 11:35 am
Come to the bukit, I'll line you up with good cheap accommodation for $20/night, a scooter $4/day, introduce you to the local rat pack, Jake Drifter is my next door neighbour. There's a million surf stories waiting to be written, and you can write the whole thing off on expenses. Ask Derek what its like, get an intro to Tim (Uluwatu Surf Villas) so we can use his steps down to temples :-D-:

Fcuk it, just get Derek to line up a villa for you. Pretty sure they would have a few unoccupied
Reckon I might come up for a few days - got a board waiting with Banksy

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Wyre
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Wyre » Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:14 pm

ajohnsen wrote:
Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:18 pm
Cranked, that's porn to Pet. Please provide a work warning for him next time.
Pet is having a TORrid affair with his sec-botary. This stuff is nothing compared to some of the raunchy code it sends it. dirty downloads, hawt little SATA drive numbers, crotchless USB ports, you name it.
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:16 pm

oh anyone in NSW south of Pt Macquarie, fcuking look out. Tomorrow especially through the afternoon. Big, super heavy groundswell from the SE, being generated right now and overnight by a winds associated with a deep low in the southern Tasman. Much stronger swell than last week's.

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