Just general surfing stuff

Can't find the right forum, then post your general surf-related remarks here!

Moderators: Butts, beach_defender, Shari, collnarra, Forum Moderators

User avatar
Cranked
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 7281
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:20 am

foamy wrote:
Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:00 am
Most have probably already seen it, but the article by Fiona Capp in Fairfax about the movie 'Breath' is insightful and very well-written.

https://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/mo ... 0z62g.html
Thanks foamy.

Here's three insightful (imho) excerpts
...Baker is adamant the bravest and most heroic moment in the film would be when Pikelet stands his ground and resists the pressure from Sando and Loonie to surf the unconquered big-wave break called Nautilus. "When I look back at that time in my life," Baker says, "I certainly wish that I had more confidence in who I was to say, 'I'm not going to do that', and not feel like I'd failed. I think we have evolved enough to be able to accept that as a strength. They're the moments that define you and make you who you are and separate you from the mob."

...In its defiant mood of rebellion, rejection of responsibility and worship of youth, surf culture has traditionally celebrated the eternal adolescent in all of us: that secret part of the self that resists the pressure to be civilised and domesticated and finds atavistic solace in the sea's savage mystery. While we don't need to relinquish it in order to grow up, there's no escaping the fact that clinging to this inner adolescent has stunted surf culture. Localism, sexism, surf rage and racism have been some of its uglier manifestations.

..."People forsook the group in the late '60s and thus began the 'festival of me'. Surfers have always been the most gigantic narcissists, so it was a perfect alignment. I'm not talking about hobby surfers here, but lifelong hardcore surfers who sublimate every other part of their lives to the tides and the swell and the weather,"I he says. In their conception of themselves as exceptional and not answerable to anyone, Sando and Eva epitomise this strand of arrested development in surf culture.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
Cranked
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 7281
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:25 am

In regard to quote 3:
Surfers have always been the most gigantic narcissists... lifelong hardcore surfers who sublimate every other part of their lives to the tides and the swell and the weather," in their conception of themselves as exceptional and not answerable to anyone, ...this strand of arrested development in surf culture.
Is it arrested development or a near spiritual breakthrough into a meaningful life
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
steve shearer
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24308
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:19 am

Is that quote attributable to Baker?

That whole trope of surfers as selfish narcissists is really one of the most tired and clapped out cliches around.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
steve shearer
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24308
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:20 am

You want selfish narcissists Fiona Capp and Simon Baker look at Hollywood actors/directors or writers.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
No Pants Lance
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 8248
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:26 am
Location: where wake collide

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by No Pants Lance » Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:04 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:19 am
Is that quote attributable to Baker?

That whole trope of surfers as selfish narcissists is really one of the most tired and clapped out cliches around.
from my reading no, it's attributed to Winton.

Kinda has a point though, but I'd qualify it on the grounds that the term narcissist itself, has taken on a whole other meaning in this age of gender/socio-sexual politics.

The selfish, individual centric aspect of a surfer is a given i reckon.
Nothing to be shamed by or vilified with.

You could say the same about golf.
or fishing.
;-)

User avatar
foamy
Owl status
Posts: 4278
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 6:46 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:10 pm

Steve, we are all selfish narcissists. That's the facticity :wink: of the human condition.
But, the primary purpose of writing, directing and acting is to produce something for others to use.
Not with surfing. It is pure self-indulgence. It's just a way of feeling good. Nothing wrong with that. But people who go on about how surfing makes you special should take their hand off it.

User avatar
steve shearer
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24308
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:41 pm

Nah mate.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
steve shearer
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24308
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:50 pm

A, I reject the notion surfing is uniquely predisposed to producing selfish narcissists and it may even have a counter vailing effect over a lifetime and b: I reject the notion that surfing is purely self indulgent. It has a very strong utilitarian element which has both easily observed subjective parameters and easily quantifiable objective parameters.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 20779
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:01 pm

I would add c) surfing is still growing and developing as a culture here in Australia and in most other places around the world, just because for a while the Aussie surf culture looked pretty adolescent etc does not mean it is now or will be in the future. I think Fiona is remembering something that's no longer quite true.

User avatar
foamy
Owl status
Posts: 4278
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 6:46 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:05 pm

Though surfing is play so will always happily retain something of the child.

User avatar
steve shearer
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24308
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:11 pm

But somehow conflating that with racism, sexism etc etc is just bullshitt logic.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
No Pants Lance
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 8248
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:26 am
Location: where wake collide

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by No Pants Lance » Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:12 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:50 pm
A, I reject the notion surfing is uniquely predisposed to producing selfish narcissists and it may even have a counter vailing effect over a lifetime and b: I reject the notion that surfing is purely self indulgent. It has a very strong utilitarian element which has both easily observed subjective parameters and easily quantifiable objective parameters.
Nothing, absolutely nothing beats curling up with Derrida on a rainy Saturday.

User avatar
foamy
Owl status
Posts: 4278
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 6:46 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:19 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:11 pm
But somehow conflating that with racism, sexism etc etc is just bullshitt logic.
I didn't agree with that. Those isms do not seem innately adolescent.

User avatar
steve shearer
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24308
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:20 pm

I know you didn't Foamy, it was Fiona Capp who made those causal connections.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
steve shearer
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24308
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:24 pm

And this premise of toxic masculinity that Tim Winton seems in thrall to.
It ruins his fiction, makes it overwrought and inauthentic. Especially in the case of Breath. Last third of that book was a mess.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
steve shearer
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24308
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:53 pm

Just can't get my head around Derrida Skip. Had a few cracks at it. Foucault makes more sense to me.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
black duck
Owl status
Posts: 4108
Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 10:47 am

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by black duck » Sat Apr 28, 2018 3:13 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:24 pm
And this premise of toxic masculinity that Tim Winton seems in thrall to.
It ruins his fiction, makes it overwrought and inauthentic. Especially in the case of Breath. Last third of that book was a mess.
The last third of nearly all his books are a mess.
smnmntll wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 3:20 pm
You foaming spangoloids need to chill before you all do wetties on the carpet

2nd Reef
Harry the Hat
Posts: 3079
Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 12:14 pm
Location: Pau Malu

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by 2nd Reef » Sat Apr 28, 2018 3:21 pm

black duck wrote:
Sat Apr 28, 2018 3:13 pm

The last third of nearly all his books are a mess.
Agree.

I went and saw the premiere the other night and had pre-judged it a stinker because of that, but instead I came away all lightheaded and enthused. Wasn't a great fan of the book, Winton can often lead you into unlikely scenarios yet somehow convince you of their possibility, it's a strength of his storytelling, however the asphyxiation sex bit was like a malignant tumour on an otherwise fine specimen and I couldn't suspend disbelief. Fortunately Baker tones it down, so while there's still a plastic bag under the bed, it's more representative of adult sex in general, dangerous to an emotionally vulnerable teenager, and the analogous aspect of risk taking that the book turns on.

I knew no-one like Pikelet when I was a grom, a surf-crazed teen that had the fortitude to say no to a revered mentor, and I doubt many exist. So Pikelet saying no to Sando is one of those unlikely scenarios Winton manages to present with conviction. And it worked, at least on film. It may come off as moralising viewed in context with his recent toxic masculinity campaign but it didn't feel like that in the darkness of the cinema. Others may judge that differently.

Of course, it ain't just the ideas that we'll judge, there's also the visual presentation. Do we again look like dills up on the big screen? To this at least, I reckon every surfer will agree that Baker nails it. The surfing quirks aren't explained, he doesn't try to make the surf look 50 foot, there's no climactic big wave scene, no pseudo mysticism. Every actor surfed and so did the writer, director, and the whole water unit too.
Last edited by 2nd Reef on Sat Apr 28, 2018 3:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests