Just general surfing stuff

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:14 pm

gcuts wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 4:00 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm
As I've probably bored you with before, my first board was a 5'8" squash tail single fin. I didn't know it at the time but it was originally shaped for Nat Young who rode it in the 1970 world contest at Johanna.

My lil bro's first board was a Ron Wade 5'6" pop-out double ender singly.

We got beyond those boards very quickly and two years later were riding hand shaped 6' plus pintails, v much the high performance boards of their time.

We never bothered with "the glide" or whatever - just pushed ahead with surfing and boards as quickly as our circumstances allowed. It was just about time in the water and the number of waves caught.

Nobody tried to impose a vision of surfing on us, we looked out at the world and chose what visions we liked and followed them. Adults? Ha!

This is pretty congruent with almost every good to very good surfer I've ever talked with about their origins and development.

Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.

Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.

So don't undercut your kids, give 'em a shot, maybe they won't take it but that'll be their choice.
Really?

FMD.

And the crowd in here let's you get away with this stuff?

FMD.
Pretty understated really, Nick only said he was a good surfer.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:27 pm

Yeah but that was just the faux humility talking. Underneath he was shouting ‘I AM A SURFING GOD’

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:30 pm

Trev wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:38 pm
What? The seaplane one?
WTF does Trev watch ads for Wales????

This whole thing is way more fcuked up than I thought

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:32 pm

He’s obsessed with Wales, just like iggy

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:34 pm

godsavethequeen wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:27 pm
Yeah but that was just the faux humility talking. Underneath he was shouting ‘I AM A SURFING GOD’
I don't really need to shout that do I god save. I don't even need to say it.

You have to accept the truth about yourself. Famous people do this all the time. They look at the fan mail and shit and just say, "Well of course this exists, it is merely a recognition of who I truly am."

Whereas I have some guy calling himself gcuts bagging me on real surf.

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Trev
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:46 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:30 pm
Trev wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:38 pm
What? The seaplane one?
WTF does Trev watch ads for Wales????

This whole thing is way more fcuked up than I thought
Well no.
Godsave was bragging about a new Wales ad.
So I googled Visit Wales advert and that came up.
Pretty ordinary actually.
Not even an appearance by Thomas.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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Trev
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:48 pm

Anyway, some people watch horror movies for entertainment.
Looking for an ad for Wales is just next level.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:49 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:34 pm
godsavethequeen wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:27 pm
Yeah but that was just the faux humility talking. Underneath he was shouting ‘I AM A SURFING GOD’
I don't really need to shout that do I god save. I don't even need to say it.

You have to accept the truth about yourself. Famous people do this all the time. They look at the fan mail and shit and just say, "Well of course this exists, it is merely a recognition of who I truly am."

Whereas I have some guy calling himself gcuts bagging me on real surf.
Awesome. You know you've got cred when that happens.

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:51 pm

I wasn’t bragging about it you chump. I was trying to point out that it is so unrepresentative of where I live that I didn’t even recognise it. Jesus Christ
Last edited by godsavethequeen on Sat Jan 11, 2020 1:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Legion
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:53 pm

I thought the Kylie ad was pretty good.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:02 pm

Is there a Welsh Kylie?

Indeed there is

Image
Erase.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Fri Jan 10, 2020 11:14 pm

I think we are all obsessed with Wales. Who wouldn’t be. You’ve done a fine job as the ambassador.

Highly guarded ordinary reef points and the odd slab that works so rarely they’re near myths.

Laughable fairy floss beach breaks.

Freezing cold

Quarter mile paddle outs.

Brown water.

Wind battered slop

6 mil rubber with hoodies and booties.

Mud everywhere.

Kooks that think they’re ripping.

Narrow swell window.
Last edited by Hatchnam on Sat Jan 11, 2020 12:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
godsavethequeen wrote:
Thu Nov 14, 2019 11:55 pm
My beef has always and only been with the realistic range available to the average Sydney working stiff
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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offshore1
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by offshore1 » Sat Jan 11, 2020 12:17 am

See what you started, gcuts.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Sat Jan 11, 2020 12:19 am

GSTQ is just gcuts with a plum in his mouth and noddy car.
godsavethequeen wrote:
Thu Nov 14, 2019 11:55 pm
My beef has always and only been with the realistic range available to the average Sydney working stiff
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Sat Jan 11, 2020 12:33 am

Well this is a surprise iggy. Fancy seeing you here

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offshore1
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by offshore1 » Sat Jan 11, 2020 12:36 am

BTW, for some reason, Google feeds my phone articles it's algorithm thinks I'll find interesting. It actually does a pretty good job.
Along with the latest dwarf porn news, they've been sneaking in the odd Carroll piece. The one about unexpected things that happened in surfing the last decade was a really good read.

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offshore1
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by offshore1 » Sat Jan 11, 2020 12:39 am

And Nick occasionally sneaks into the odd little people porn piece.

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Sat Jan 11, 2020 12:40 am

My missus just texted me a snap from the end of the lane. Whatcha think iggy? I mean, it’s shit and that’s a particularly softcock wave but pretty epic compared your normal rubbish right?

Image

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