Just general surfing stuff

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foamy
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Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sun Apr 12, 2015 10:51 am

This is Damien Hopgood apparently. I'm pretty sure I've done this manoeuvre. I think it is a very good surfing photo.

Image

rmb
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by rmb » Sun Apr 12, 2015 10:56 am

Thats a cool photo reckon he misses his board?

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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sun Apr 12, 2015 10:59 am

It is my version of the aerial. Though the trick is to miss your board.

I wonder if he can see his house.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sun Apr 12, 2015 8:01 pm

I don't see this thread as covering bad things that happen while surfing, but I found this film of being caught inside a 6 wave set at Todos Santos interesting. Not giant surf, but obviously a very solid, long period swell.

We often don't realise just how short most rides are. Taylor Knox said, only semi-jokingly, the average Californian wave ride is 2 to 3 seconds. You watch website's wave of the week, when not in slo-mo, they are often no more than 7 second rides.

But this chap, puffed already by paddling around and then paddling for and missing a non-set wave, finds himself caught inside a very solid six wave set. Going by the camera, while he is working hard, he spends about 55 seconds underwater in a period of 1 min 45 secs. To me, that is a surprising amount of time. I think the lesson is, if you don't have a fair bit of fitness, you could easily be in a lot of trouble.
http://youtu.be/s695pzIiRDg

rmb
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by rmb » Sun Apr 12, 2015 8:12 pm

I think foamy it suggests more about if your unable to understand the environment observe conditions etc you could be in a lot of trouble.

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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sun Apr 12, 2015 8:21 pm

rmb wrote:I think foamy it suggests more about if your unable to understand the environment observe conditions etc you could be in a lot of trouble.
Yep, well he did call it 'How not to surf Todos Santos'.

Though big surf, in most conditions, if you out for a while, you will get caught inside.
Shane Dorian said that advice for people who want to paddle Jaws. To be in position to catch most waves, he said, you had better be prepared to be caught inside because that is a certainty.

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chrisb
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by chrisb » Mon Apr 13, 2015 7:49 am

The old two card trick. You get frustrated waiting ages out the back for "the big one" while smaller ones break inside. You paddle inside to get the smaller ones then the cleanup set arrives. Alternatively you paddle for and miss the first set wave only to find you can't get out the back quickly enough to miss the next three crunchers. Happens all the time in big and small surf.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beerfan » Mon Apr 13, 2015 8:02 am

That's my strongest surfing skill, getting impatient and taking the smaller ones, only to wear the set on my head. Or at least watching the good ones roll through as I'm paddling back out, Can't be taught.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Fuschia » Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:34 am

Just about gave me nightmares, Foamy. Brought back memories.
I got caught about halfway out between Surge and Winky at the Bower one big day. Had to be big to break out there and rideable all the way past Surge on the outside.
Wiped out on the first in the set and broke my leggie. I don't know how many there were in the set but by the time I finished I was well inside Surge and still in water over my head. But the thing is, with all the rocks on the bottom, the turbulence is horrendous.
When the set finished I had to swim (slowly) out into the deep water and go looking for my board which was halfway across the channel towards the pool. Well, maybe not halfway but it felt like it.
Probably the worst I've ever had. If it happened today (20 years later) I'd drown.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Apr 13, 2015 10:00 am

I remember Matt Grainger saying they were doing tow ins at the Bower and I can't remember who it actually was but they took off and the whole reef went dry. They got broken ribs and washed into Shellies. The rest of the crew didn't know what happened and thought he had just decided to paddle in and go home.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by petulance » Mon Apr 13, 2015 3:50 pm

Jurgen Klopp wrote: We have four centre-backs; I don’t think we need more. Just at the moment I’m fine. The transfer market is open until August 31. We cannot force the things and we would never get a centre-back just for the sake of it. Look out there and tell me five that would make us stronger. Five. Then you win a prize.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:06 pm

Question for Novocastrians. Those BIG South Winter Swells that often get photog'd featuring those grinding mofo walls. I'm assuming it's Newcastle Harbour (or if not, where is it?) It looks epic and coming into the prime season I wanna have a crack at it soon. Tick it off the list.

So what's it like in the 8-10 ft range? The paddle out? The paddle in? The wave itself? Etc?

By the looks of it I'm thinking an eight foot paddle gun would be the go. But is it also viable on a foiled up step up, say a 6'9 or so?

Anyone surfed it before or surf it much?
Last edited by Hatchnam on Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by channels » Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:17 pm

That's shithouse. What a dog act.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Almighty God » Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:32 pm

foamy wrote:This is Damien Hopgood apparently. I'm pretty sure I've done this manoeuvre. I think it is a very good surfing photo.

Image
About 3 months ago I attempted this very maneuver...this was the result

Image

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:57 pm

Hatchie, the waves may have been the freak waves that break in the harbour but more likely they are Merewether. Guess I can't get run out of town since I don't live there anymore.

Merewether is way better when it gets bigger. Don't think the harbour holds that kind of size. Biggest perfect waves I think I've ever seen was at Caves out off the coal jetty think.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Apr 13, 2015 6:02 pm

thanks. i might ask MM. yeah, prob merewether. on second look, the harbour looks more like it'd need a big north east swell. wherever it is i'm keen to have crack at it.
The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by stinky_wes » Mon Apr 13, 2015 6:14 pm

Hatchnam wrote:Question for Novocastrians. Those BIG South Winter Swells that often get photog'd featuring those grinding mofo walls. I'm assuming it's Newcastle Harbour (or if not, where is it?) It looks epic and coming into the prime season I wanna have a crack at it soon. Tick it off the list.

So what's it like in the 8-10 ft range? The paddle out? The paddle in? The wave itself? Etc?

By the looks of it I'm thinking an eight foot paddle gun would be the go. But is it also viable on a foiled up step up, say a 6'9 or so?

Anyone surfed it before or surf it much?
If you're thinking of Newie Harbour (shallow right hander) I wouldn't bother with a big board. Your normal shorty or a step up will do. Although you'll have to battle with dozens of boogers taking off on the boil, making it rarely worth the hassle.

Also cut down the wave height by three quarters from the open beaches...

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Apr 13, 2015 6:23 pm

Ok thanks . So it's sounding like merewethers where I'm referring to instead
The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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