surfing alone

[dan]

mate I can't think of anything better than surfing alone sometimes. Gives me so much time to think about stuff going on in me life. And all the best waves are yours!

But maybe I can't talk cause what I call "surfing alone" usually means some remote bank down a long strech of beach on the east coast. If you are talking about the west coast or south-west coast, then yeh, I'd be kinda worried.

[WANDERER]

i think it was greenough that said, "one other surfer in the lineup reduces the chance of a shark attacking you by 50%"

[mad]

In going for an early I partake of the Pat Malone a bit. On one hand its freaks you out and the other you totally buzz with the exclusive and special vibe. I'm not getting all hippy or nuthin' but you do feel closer to the elements and it sort of strips surfing back to its basics without all the peer bizzo.
I know what I'm trying to say, but its as clear as mud. If I could just find me stash...... Anyway if I become shark shit, least I went surfing.

[sykout]

yer its weird when you get awesome waves though. i remember surfing completely alone, maybe 3km from another person and i got a heavy bazza and came out to this eerie silence. It's surely these silences that build the shark paranoia

[Y? sk8label]

surfed a semi hard to get to secret spot up north, me and family were traveling from sydney to goldy, stopped at this place and camped overnight waking up to perfect lefts!!!!!!!!! zipped up wettie at 6:00 am waited a while for someone else to show as the perfect 3ft lefts peeled for 200+mtrs. no one showed, and i ended up paddling out by myself with not a house or car(exept our car and trailer) insight! Was a bit eary at first, but after i got the first wave(like a minute long) i was havin the time of my life! had with no-one out for an 1 hour 1/2...........saw a couple of fins coming straight for me, i freaked then realised it was a pod of dolphins........yikes!!!!!!!! about 7:30, one guy showed up who was goofy ft(i'm natural and love backside re-entries)and he was surfing it pretty good.

8:00 am crowd turns to 4 poeple and only one of em can actually surf the joint, rest of em just kooks ........... the best surf i ever had ever! sorry can't name the place but............. i'll surf byself anywhere after surfing here, the most secluded spot i've ever surfed with rocky cliff backdrop, and green hills for miles

[phil_mckrack]

yeh once at tuncurry i was surfing with one other guy out down the beach a fair bit, both of us gettiong pitted off our nuts, looking in at each other when we were in the tube, felt so alone, it was just so quiete, and no i didnt get freaked out at all, although one time at redhead i was out onoy for 10 minutes by myself, and i was scared shitless!

[sandonpoint]

ive had countless surfs to myself one day distinctly was out probs 5ft whalebone and i coan safely say i was about to poo my pants. this summer ive had heaps of earlys at beachies by myself before the lazy crowds come out, usually like 2-3ft perfect and i cant even describe it

[_cant_touch_this]

not a house or car(exept our car) insight!

You're a deadset moron aren't you mate?

[sykout]

gahahahahaha

[mad]

Hey MG, I think you find my stash!!!

Quoting Grenough again, didn't he say he'd rather surf a quite B or C grade wave than a crowdeed A grade one.

[Larry]

I was sitting out at North Tabourie one afternoon one summer's day - alone - just waiting on another set - just gazing down into the water beneath my feet - very nicely glazed off with the sun on my back and nothing on my mind - like we do

and the water under my feet suddenly turned BLACK !!!

and the bottom disappeared - and all my head went very cold as the brain figured out that the black shadow down there two feet under my board was a massive, living, swimming thing -

2' away !!!!































thank f.ck it was a dolphin eh ?



laz

[Clif]

surfing alone is the bomb. love surfing with mates but when u r out there, birds swinging low to check you out, good bank peeling away, sun out, knowing no-one is coming over that dune , magic. too many sunset sessions (my fav) on tropical isles to not value it. dream about those sessions forevermore.

but context is all important, overcast, drizzling, 8 foot plus swell, reef in west vicco - cold, bubbling and gurgling. A mate can be all important in egging you into one. oh, the impending shame of not going when he is looking over from his last one will push you over the edge. but surfing alone can mean pull backs when u just know u shoulda gone.

part of the challenge of surfing alone is that self drive, making it work i reckon.

also, u eventually end up with no choice as mates drop off to pursue house repayments, careers, picnics int he park, and the numerous other excuses for not hitting it for the dawnie down manyana.

mmm north tabourie.

grew up surfing a lot of arvo sessions at North Straddie, plenty of shapeshifters nder the water there, but still about. amazing what the head can do to a session. perfect solo waves turn into frightful fears of the unknown depths. amazing how one doesn't fall during that layback snap. lol.

[Hawkeye]

hehehe...! Know what that's like...

Maybe I'm a bit sadistic, but I always have a chuckle when I see someone spot the dolphin after me. The startled, sudden intake of breath, followed by a slight relaxation and a slightly guilty half-smile and look around to see who might have noticed they've now got a brown wetty! At least then I know I've got company in the strong aroma stakes.

Ha! I was sitting in the lineup at Tuncurry one day and was almost crash-tackled by a pair of juveniles surfing the wave. Fortunately they saw me just in time and jinked away with centimetres to spare.

Would have made an interesting news headline: "Surf Rage: Demented dolphin attacks surfer for dropping in"

[barstardos]

Its still possible to have this feeling everyday in Sydney.
Just paddle out at first, first light (not very early at the moment) and give yourself 15 minutes of glorious, freaked out surfing solitude!!!

[fletch]

I prefer surfing alone, especially in the rain and even better when you are out of the city. Had many a great surf at Middle Rock by myself. You can't see any houses, just bush and beach stretching off as far as the eye can see. You can really start to imagine that no one else exists, love it, awesome feeling, .

Was out tallows oneday, surfing alone and it was raining, was amazing. Saw some dolphins playing in the waves, then I saw a fin sliding along the top of the water that didn't go up and down, nor did the animal it was attached to pop up to breath air. I got out.