surfing tips and tricks.

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steve shearer
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by steve shearer » Wed Jun 11, 2014 2:13 pm

LPJ wrote:Unless Steve, you're responding to me asking if it's worthwhile, and your personal opinion is no...?
probably not. I assume you are an adult beginner/intermediate?

If so you probably have limited time to develop a skill set ....you're only retarding your progress by wasting that time surfing shitty little dumpers.

I spent ten years as a coach/guide for beginner/intermediates. IMO the biggest factor in improvement is getting time in quality- and by quality I mean a wave with some predictability and length of ride- surf.
What in martial arts circles is termed time on the mat.....the hardest thing to do in surfing.

Lot of wheel spinning and angst surfing shit surf for zero net improvement other than paddle fitness.
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by LPJ » Wed Jun 11, 2014 3:18 pm

JSB: gotta be quick as a ninja in such closely spaced, double up, random peaks and close outs. Obviously, leaning forward while paddling before the wave is sub-optimal.

Steve: Point taken. What about doing it in prep for when you do get smoking overhead beachies and need critical take offs?

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steve shearer
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by steve shearer » Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:12 pm

possibly....

still reckon the opportunity cost in terms of overall skill development is too high.


find a reefbreak , I can think of several in Sydney that are often uncrowded when average, and practice what Carroll said about it in his book.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by LPJ » Wed Jun 11, 2014 6:30 pm

Well I guess I'll just keep plugging away, deeper and deeper. Maybe for 15min at the start of a session, when I'm paddling at 100%

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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by zingomar » Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:09 pm

takeoffs

Arm strength makes a huge difference. That is paddle strength and push up strength. The strong paddling gets you in early positioned well with some speed and or under the lip, push up strength makes it all happen instinctively and quickly - you lift up and swing your feet under you without thinking about it. I'm over 50 and when unfit often put a knee down partway through the takeoff. When fit I just pop up in one movement and don't even think about how it happens.

Small sucky semi closeouts need all of the above but you pretty much have to takeoff sort of sideways and place the board under your feet like Nick Carroll teaches and sideslip a bit. They are a mix of speed, feel, drift etc - quite tricky unless you are fit and agile and have enough experience to control drift. But the other key ingredient is a peak with some push. A true small sucky semi closeout with no real angle or hint of a peak is almost unsurfable. You need an entry point like a rebound peak or wedge such as Duranbah to get in and to give you the speed to do anything with them before they closeout. Learning to surf in these sort of waves will be really hard.

For me, in summer, if fit, quick little beachbreaks of the semi closeout can be fun if there is a hint of a peak. Where I live, in winter they are one way trip to a cold flush and I seem slower and clumsier in the real cold - so I have no interest in them.

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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by LPJ » Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:46 pm

This site is a CARROLLory... :D that's a synonym for collusion right

"A true small sucky semi closeout with no real angle or hint of a peak is almost unsurfable." - comforting reassurance I'm not a total tard, or 'sped'. What would you say about the idea in my head of being a gorilla on the board and smashing down the take off and then catching it with my feet?

Is there a point where you push down too hard on the take off and are initiating the pitching out into the flats? This is assuming I tried to get in under the lip but just couldn't get into position in time cos of the randomness of the shorie...

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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by zingomar » Wed Jun 11, 2014 9:41 pm

Closeouts are a little pointless to surf. I have surfed them recently for fitness and to practice takeoffs ready for a trip away to Indo. True closeouts are really something to go straight on and get used to handling a straight ahead take off and handle the curve at the bottom - keep your nose up and position yourself back on your board to do so. really they are desperate measures not real surfing. But if you have the occasional wedge coming through to launch into a brief wall with speed they can be fun waves - small tubes and re-entry possibilities before the shut down. If you lives in crowded city waves, though every hint of a peak such as this will tend to have a crowd.

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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by Animal_Chin » Thu Jun 12, 2014 8:39 pm

I was going to reply then realised I live in Vicco and have fcuk all to offer.
Image

LPJ
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by LPJ » Sat Aug 23, 2014 5:36 pm

Cheers Zingo, yeah do have to do the straight drop sometimes, but usually just bail cos I don't really wanna risk busting fins on the shoreline sand...

Anyway, PRE-CHAFING. After weeks out of the water, I can see my sessions being shortened and paddle rounds being slowed by (steamer) chafe. Any tips or tricks???

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steve shearer
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by steve shearer » Sat Aug 23, 2014 7:00 pm

pawpaw ointment.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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swvic
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by swvic » Sat Aug 23, 2014 8:27 pm

Get a new wettie. That hasn't happened to me since, I dunno, 1999 maybe. As much as we bitch about wettie companies, their product has improved a great deal re the rash
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?

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Trev
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by Trev » Sat Aug 23, 2014 10:19 pm

Weird.
I've never had a rash from a wettie.
Only ever get a bit when I wear boardies and my thigh rubs on the wax on the board.
Beanpole
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by Beanpole » Sun Aug 24, 2014 9:41 am

On a trip down to the Coal Coast a couple of weeks ago I noticed as usual a certain distinct style that I've come to associate with the place. It involves surfing from way back on the board and pivot turning all the time. Now the guys obviously have the place wired and surf it way better than I can but gee it's not a style I like looking at. Particularly old guys. Don't know how it would travel elsewhere. As usual a nice vibe in the water and they are obviously having fun so I guess it doesn't matter.
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by Drailed » Sun Aug 24, 2014 11:41 am

steve shearer wrote:pawpaw ointment.
Yep that and nappy rash cream. Both awesome for rash.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Davros
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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by Davros » Sun Aug 24, 2014 4:30 pm

B3 rash cream is the goods. Tips, don't ride a board that has to low a rocker, going fast in a straight line will get old and it's all about control and having the head space to pick your manoeuvres.

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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by Indo dreaming » Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:33 pm

Well i was expecting to see some good tips or tricks in here but theres not much of substance, so i might add the most classic trick of all

The Old school sliding 360

As a grommet i always thought they were cool especially when Buttons done them, anyway a almost ten years ago after surfing for about 20 years i started trying them and learnt them by trial and era.

They actually feel real cool to do (feeling wise), especially in the right place on a wave like on an end section when theres not much left of the wave or coming out of a quick tapering barrel, your just got to stop yourself from doing them to much or in the wrong place on a wave though otherwise they become kinda lame, although when first learning them you have to waste quite a few waves like any kinda of trick.

Okay first Where to do them Certain area of waves are easier to do them than others, you kind of want a wave thats not too fat but not too step and its easier do do them if its not too hollow or peeling to fast a little tapering almond shaped pockets with a fluffy lip is perfect, but once you get them down, you can also do them on a take off, or even on a little fluffy closeout section.

First thing Sliding 360 are nothing like doing a three sixty on a skateboard you dont turn off your actual tail or lift the nose up most times, so get that out of you head, doing one like a 360 on a skateboard is more like a carving 360, yeah they look better but are ten times harder.

Comparing it to a trick (or feel) on a skateboard its more like a slide, forget what you call them(burns, power slides?) that old school slide where you shift most of your weight to your front foot and and kind of push sideways a little with your back foot while turning slightly.

Also before you try them, its way easier to do them forehand than backhand, so to start with just try them forehand then if you get them totally wired and do them at will then try them backhand.

Step 1= Position once you got a suitable section, you need to be on the right place of the wave, you cant just do them anywhere on a wave, its the top third of the wave where you start the turn, so position yourself so your near the top of the wave, either by letting the wave suck/pull you up or even by doing a very slight top turn, you want to be in a position where your on a slight angle like your doing an angled takeoff.

The turnOnce you start feeling the momentum of dropping back down the face, kind of turn into the wave slightly like your doing a slight bottom turn, but your not at the bottom of the wave, your actually in the top third of the wave, as your doing this slight turn, centre your weight over your front foot, and very slightly push sidewards with your back foot (just like the skateboard move i described above) through this bit kind of try to keep your board flatish (not to much on rail)

The slideAll this will should cause your fins to kind of go loose or slide, and you will end up with your tail towards the beach, this is what you want because your not actually doing a 360 your just doing a 180 and once your backwards your fins will grab and you will natural spin the other 180.

Hanging onThrough the slide and when your fins grab you really need to keep your body low and your weight kind of evenly spread, arms spread out, kind of like a classic surfer stance, this is actually the hardest part of the turn because its a split second between sliding and fins grabbing and the fins regrabbing can throw your balance, once you feel your fins grab then you kind of reshift your weight back to your tail more, then before you know it your back facing the beach and ridding out of it.

Tip A wider stance helps when learning them, with your front foot a bit more forward than normal and back foot as as far back on the tail as possible.

Tip Most important tip, and most common mistake is again its nothing like a 360 on a skateboard so dont try to turn off you tail, your more turning off the middle of your board, your basically getting backwards then letting the wave/fins finish the turn.

Yeah anyway thats my take on how to do Old school sliding 360s, there actually very easy to do when you know how but always impress non surfers in particular chicks :D

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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by LPJ » Fri Aug 29, 2014 4:57 pm

Alright cheers yeah it's pretty old as I got it at an outlet store for cheap and didn't use it for a while. So the tape perished almost straight up and the stitching is a bit rough. Got an outtie belly button too. Just gonna finish the vasso first.

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Re: surfing tips and tricks.

Post by yoba » Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:28 am

Hey guys, what sort of "Carroll's book" was mentioned twice in this tread? As a grown up beginner I desperately looking for any piece of information to handle my log better at Wanda breaks.

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