the most annoying surfer

[alakaboo]

Iggy you'd lose your mind at some of the canyon-fed breaks in SoCal.

I got back into surfing in San Diego, my style as a result was hopeless in Sydney but works okay in my neck of the woods.

I surfed a single fin kneeboard, PP, it went unreal in small steep waves. Fin was way forward though, had to shift it back.
Was going to buy it from my mate but he rocked it the next day and snapped it in half, the magic was gone when it got fixed.

[purple pyramids]

Had a few kneelo mates before I moved over here. Sometimes we'd swap boards if the surf was shitty. They were all fast and surfed very flat. Couldn't cut back unless you got down real low and held the rail. Even then the turn was so long you could read a book. Singles and twins - never tried a thruster

Kneeling on them was something else. I could not turn at all. Lean into a bottom turn and the board would go straight and I'd fall off. Punishing on the knees too. Don't know how the fcuk they coped. Given all that, some of them were very good surfers

i know what you mean, i could never turn on the older slab style kneeboards either. but the modern thruster kneeboards are unbelievably responsive. i just think about a turn and i'm doing it. they're telepathic.

[Hatchnam]

Iggy you'd lose your mind at some of the canyon-fed breaks in SoCal.

tell me more about these "canyon-fed" breaks.
are you talking "super-deep to super-shallow" abrupt style?

[alakaboo]

Not just that, they focus the swell too so you end up with defined peaks.

[Beanpole]

Fish craze might have been cause in a time of thin boards all that extra volume in the fish helped a lot of fat buggers catch more waves and feel better about their surfing?

that makes sense...the fish had a a stand-up counterpart, while the slab, also with plenty of width and volume, never did have a stand-up equivalent. instead, it just became the thruster when that kneelo at NN stuck a fin in the middle of the wide tail of his slab.

Have to disagree re: no stand up equivalent. Just look at MPs MOTE board. He even went in the kneelo titles on it one year. That stubbie style planning hull was pretty popular around that time. Nat used to ride a very similar shape. Ted Spencer. The kneelo slab was just an exaggerated version of that.

Had some brilliant waves on my fish at point breaks up and down the coast but its not much chop in Sydney slop....or peaky good waves for that matter.

[purple pyramids]

Fish craze might have been cause in a time of thin boards all that extra volume in the fish helped a lot of fat buggers catch more waves and feel better about their surfing?

that makes sense...the fish had a a stand-up counterpart, while the slab, also with plenty of width and volume, never did have a stand-up equivalent. instead, it just became the thruster when that kneelo at NN stuck a fin in the middle of the wide tail of his slab.

Have to disagree re: no stand up equivalent. Just look at MPs MOTE board. He even went in the kneelo titles on it one year. That stubbie style planning hull was pretty popular around that time. Nat used to ride a very similar shape. Ted Spencer. The kneelo slab was just an exaggerated version of that.

Had some brilliant waves on my fish at point breaks up and down the coast but its not much chop in Sydney slop....or peaky good waves for that matter.

yeah, fair call...i did think of MP's board and PC describing it as a kneeboard shape in the MP bio. but didn't realise it was a popular shape. when was nat and ted spencer riding short, volumed boards, early to mid 70s?

[Beanpole]

Pretty much 70/71 up till the world titles at Bells really. After that they started to go get longer again in reaction to the results, more pros going to Hawaii plus people riding longer funny boards for Indo.

The pintail Nat rides in MOTE was complimented by a 5'10" square tail with a big flexi fin. My first three boards went outdated 7' tracker, 5'10" round nose square tail then MP ski free model also 5'10"

Nat rode a 5'10" square tail like that in the World Titles. Wayne Lynch was on a 5'6" round tail I think. Boards were actually very similar looking to a lot of shapes around now in plan shape. Twinnies too. Geoff McCoy and Terry Fitzgerald were officianados. I think Fitzy rode a 5'3" or something at that stage.

[oldman]

i don't snake anyone. my etiquite's pretty sound actually. i'm just proactive and efficient at catching a good number of waves. Oldman.... now THERE'S a snake you wouldn't expect. He's the drop in king!

Hey, I resemble that remark!!

FWIW, I only drop in on mates, and as far as I can recall it was a two way street when I was out there with Iggy.

But if I don't know you you're safe. I fair dinkum don't like it, but my mates started it, and I just carried it on.

[Beanpole]

Oldman. Everyone's mate in the surf.

[oldman]

.. the guy who's standing by his car drying off, been out since dark at YOUR local spot and you've just shown up in one farken dreadful hurry because it's about 7.30 am and out there is 6', offshore, breaking way out.
- with about 30 on it
- and this most annoying guy says, as you piss on by with no hair and a red face ... you shoulda been here early Carroll.

That guy. 1994 thereabouts, Newport (not fat that day!) reef.

Larry, that is absolute GOLD!!!

Butts!

Butts?

Farking hell, butts makes my visits seem like a regular event. Hope you're well and still kicking ................ er...... something, butts.

[oldman]

Oldman. Everyone's mate in the surf.

No, I'm a good boy out there, generally, but truth is that I have just about given up on surfing on crowds. It just takes the joy out of what should be fun.

[Hatchnam]

U still get out there olds? Haven't seen u in a while ?

[purple pyramids]

Pretty much 70/71 up till the world titles at Bells really. After that they started to go get longer again in reaction to the results, more pros going to Hawaii plus people riding longer funny boards for Indo.

The pintail Nat rides in MOTE was complimented by a 5'10" square tail with a big flexi fin. My first three boards went outdated 7' tracker, 5'10" round nose square tail then MP ski free model also 5'10"

Nat rode a 5'10" square tail like that in the World Titles. Wayne Lynch was on a 5'6" round tail I think. Boards were actually very similar looking to a lot of shapes around now in plan shape. Twinnies too. Geoff McCoy and Terry Fitzgerald were officianados. I think Fitzy rode a 5'3" or something at that stage.

that's really interesting. i had no idea people were riding boards that short...and twinnies. thanks for filling me in.

saltman...yep, not much a wave catcher that board...i took it out at wanda a couple of times. it was near impossible getting out...the nose has so much foam. duckdiving was a real chore. i guess there is a reason you don't see many scoop decks around.

[oldman]

U still get out there olds? Haven't seen u in a while ?

Well my friend, last time I saw you we said goodbye to each other and you were on your way up to somewhere, was it Gladstone.

Yeah I get out there occasionally, but mostly I reserve my surfing for anywhere I can get out of Sydney.

Surfed Sunday evening at de bra, 5 till 7, and it was just average at best, but the crowds are no joy for me any more.

I don't love them.

Coops might organise a drink sometime soon, in which case I hope we can catch up.

[Butts]

Olds, make sure you keep me in the loop for the drinks.
Also, anytime you want to head for a quite surf let me know!!