new member.... and a question

[jeffn]

Hi
I'm a 49yo Newcastle guy who restarted surfing last year after a 20yr break.
I started with my high school board.... A 6'2" Egan tri-fin but soon felt it a little lacking in the flotation department. (I'm 6'2" and 87kg).
I then bought a MR 7'4" "big guy" board and it's way better for paddling and picking up waves but I struggle to turn like I (think I )used to.
So, I recently bought an MR Squid 6'10". This board floats along mushy surf like it's on an air bed. Would this board be very maneuverable? I still find it hard work compared to my memories of my old 6'2".
My style is pretty laid back so maybe the squid is good enough or should I be aiming for a shorter board but with more volume than my old Egan.

If anyone has any comments if be glad to hear. I know this falls into the newby "what board do I need" category so apologies for your forehead slapping up front.

[JSB]

Boards built for "big guys" never turn well. Use it for a while to get back into catching waves and getting your flow back. You could go a HPS with a little extra foam if you get bored, talk to a shaper and let them know what you want.

[Skipper]

Go the air bed. You'll be immortalised.

[Beanpole]

Good to see a Novocastrian in the forums.
I wouldn't rush to too short a board too quickly if you haven't surfed for quite a while.
However, I reckon one of the problems with "big guys boards" is they tend to just be a blown up version of a shorter board with more thickness. The trouble with that is the rocker remains the same but its now over a much bigger area.Thats probably okay if you actually are a bigger version of an average surfer. Not if bigger means fatter and thicker but not taller. This also means slower and heavier. There are bigger boards that are what they are rather than blown up short boards. They can work very well for you if thats the style of board you like.

Anyway thats my 2 cents worth.
Good Luck, keep practicing your turns.

[kreepykrawly]

Dont ride a wide board it'll give you hemorrhoids...aka the grapes of wrath.

Womble a realsurf forum member on here got it and has been battling the problem for years now.

[Trev]

Jeff, take no notice of Kreepy.
He's sort of, our "special" project so we let him stay around in the background.
Every now and then, he lashes out but he's (pretty) harmless.

[jeffn]

Unfortunately I developed a hemorrhoid on my first day on the MR squid.



Just kidding. As long add my current boards aren't going to inhibit my progress I'm happy. Thanks for the advice everyone.

[Animal_Chin]

Unfortunately I developed a hemorrhoid on my first day on the MR squid.

Posterity.

And google.

[Davros]

I agree with Beanpole, I'm 110 kegs, not to much of a fat bastard and the "big guy" shortboards are ok but really they don't work great as they feel over blown, pillowey and not right in faster powerful surf IMO. A nicely foiled fished up hybrid also good, think MR Puffer Fish or Flying Fish.

[Animal_Chin]

I agree with Beanpole, I'm 110 kegs, not to much of a fat bastard and the "big guy" shortboards are ok but really they don't work great as they feel over blown, pillowey and not right in faster powerful surf IMO. A nicely foiled fished up hybrid also good, think MR Puffer Fish or Flying Fish.

Fatty.

[Davros]

Wetsuit did feel a bit tight the other day....riding Mick Mackies, Neal Purchases 6'4 x 23/4x 20 1/2....foiled for a fat c&nt.

[Davros]

JD board next on agenda, guy locally loves his as well.

[jeffn]

I'm just surfing the usual shitty waves that are there when I go surfing. sometimes they are good. the usual mix that is available.
I'll quite often surf crappy surf just too get wet. I don't mind.

I really just wanted some feedback as to whether my available boards were OK as all rounders and not designed for some specific conditions I'd rarely encounter.

......And also was just saying hi.

[Davros]

Thanks Matticus, as long as we can head to an all you can eat buffet riding mini bikes.

Wing nut has good points, but once you start having to try to hard to get into waves its all over.

[marauding mullet]

I'm pretty much in the same boat as you jeff, 55 yo, 6'1", 93kgs, 20 years out of the water and live in newcastle, we're practically bookends I'm from sth oz originally and kinda lost interest in surfing when i moved to newy 20 years ago, the crowds and beach breaks just didn't do it for me and work got in the way too. When i decided 12 months ago to get back into it i started borrowing a mates mal but never having used one before it felt weird but at least i was out there. The next progression was a 7'' 3" fish popout-off the rack thing that was easy to use but didn't turn on the rail for me. They say those type of boards surf "flat" and i found that to be true. It got me back on my feet though and paddle-fit and i was loving it and kicking myself for staying dry for so long. Next step was a custom 7' grant miller board which was not shaped with any compromises built in for my lack of ability. I'm currently in sumatra with it and it feels like an old friend although i'm still not at 100% confidence. Grant is very good at making boards to suit individuals, including bigger guys, check out his website. The last custom boards i owned 20 years ago were all around 6'6" rounded pin single fins for sth oz so i just left the whole design in grants hands rather than dictate design features i've lost touch with. Good luck with your surfing, maybe we'll crash into each other in the water one day