Chasing the dragon

[offshore1]

take a good look at yaself buddy.

I was actually booked in for complications caused by a penis reduction.

[offshore1]

Too right wingnut. Shouldn't make sport of ringmaster's botched sex change operation.

[rmb]

Fine line between and addiction and an obsession or even a passionate embrace.

You don't get good unless you hover between those three gradations on the spectrum, for large periods of otherwise productive time.

I've been there for thirty years and have probably transferred some of that devotion over to fishing, which I suspect will be a more or less fluid and reversible development.

They are very similar pursuits in terms of the relationship between effort/skill/experience and reward. The experiential gulf say, between what a skilled dedicated surfer luxuriates in at 8-10ft Lennox or Pipeline or Sunset or any other black diamond run, and what the weekend warrior experiences is profound. They are barely in the same ballpark. One is an active participant, the other a moreorless passive observer.

Same with fishing. 10% of the fishermen catch 90% percent of the fish, which means the vast majority are fcuking clueless. They enjoy a relaxing dabble but as far as enjoying the complex, primal and deeply compatible feeling-sensations of successful fishing goes- it's an alien universe to them. Which doesn't even address the rapid development of neural/memory/learning circuitry in the brain as vast amounts of imformation are being processed on a successful fishing mission.
To ask a good question you must needs know some of the answer. That knowledge base is completely inaccessible to the vast majority.

I guess the big diff between surfing and fishing and maybe other recreational pursuits with Golf winning the gold medal for pointlessness is that success is rewarded, not just at the personal level of the ego, but shared with the family or community. Catching a fish, butchering it and watching your kids grow healthy and strong on it is deeply satisfying.

Thus it feels a little more grown-up and slightly less selfish obsession/addiction. But that's just self-justification too.

Personally I find these two obsession's play at a detriment to each other and to become more skilled at both it takes time in or on the water. For me I have been a fisherman longer than a surfer and find my obsession varying between the two. I get pissed of if social commitment's even threaten getting in the way of these pastimes if the conditions are good mid day and i'm at work i fcuken hate hearing about others getting waves in the arvo likewise with fishing if I cant get out and I know there's a good run of fish to be caught it drives me nut's. I spend too much of my wage on these pursuits yet am always after a new board, fishing/boating equipment or another holiday.

[bobjs]

I am like a smoker who never has his own packet. Always humbugging for the next one. But what if I had fully indulged in my earlier days. Would I be more satisfied now?

A mate was recently out of the water for six months on doctors orders. He said he was actually happier cause he had no choice. Wasn't like he was missing out due to life's other commitments.

[crabmeat thompson]

The happiest I think I've been as a surfer was when I tore my achilles. Lived in the desert, didn't have the constant nagging at my thoughts, "what's the ocean doing?" I could look at trees and appreciate them, not look at them as nothing more than a wind diagnostic.

My back was the best it's been, so to my knees and hip. Found other things to do, and found myself spending heaps more time with the family.

Surfing's more of a curse than anything else as you get older and have a family, imo ...

[Grooter]

Surfing's more of a curse than anything else as you get older and have a family, imo ...

I've had a similar feeling this year with the little ones getting older and have wound it back a fair bit.

I'm now getting used to the idea of surfing being a casual pursuit over the next 10 or so years until they're old enough to not want dad around every minute of the weekend days. Am I'm not really that bothered by it either like I would have been in years past as it's becoming really enjoyable.

[steve shearer]

Happiest I've been as a surfer was spending two weeks in the jungle at G-land.



Bunch of good boards, pumping surf all day every day and zero sense of urgency.

just a wonderful sense of melting into the moment and getting the rides of a lifetime.



Having this out the backdoor isn't too bad either.






I think it's a blessing and even though I can do it less with a young family I probably enjoy the good ones more.

[steve shearer]

Speak up.

[Skipper]

Nice pics in da bucket Steve You do have a thing for cocks on the beach hey.
Is that yours in one back there?

[steve shearer]

Sorry Skip, mine in one back where?

[RickyG]

Surfing's more of a curse than anything else as you get older and have a family, imo ...

I've had a similar feeling this year with the little ones getting older and have wound it back a fair bit.

I'm now getting used to the idea of surfing being a casual pursuit over the next 10 or so years until they're old enough to not want dad around every minute of the weekend days. Am I'm not really that bothered by it either like I would have been in years past as it's becoming really enjoyable.

Prety much nails where I'm at right now too.
I've sometimes wished i didn't surf, so I could focus on the things and not have that nagging feeling that I'm missing out - hate it on holidays especially when i'm out and about with the family and wishing I was in the water.

Right now the small windows available to surf get closed up pretty quickly with family stuff (eg, bike ride with the kids or surf? How selfish is it to take the latter option?).

I'm not certain if it the cause or a symptom, but my enthusuasm for surfing has really waned in recent years. My plan is to take my two boys out bodysurfing and boardriding (on one of those foam training boards) a bit this summer and see if it catches hold with them. If so in the near future I'll hope to surf with them which might rekindle some of the love.

[crabmeat thompson]

(eg, bike ride with the kids or surf? How selfish is it to take the latter option?).

I'm not certain if it the cause or a symptom, but my enthusuasm for surfing has really waned in recent years.

Yeah that's the kinda thing I'm talking about too.

I can't look at them and say now when they're asking for a run up the beach or a bike ride to somewhere. Especially with my wife really ill. I've watched my son become overweight earlier in the year (still is a kilo or two overweight, but before he was like 5!) while I was always working and studying 5 subjects ... my wife literally couldn't take him out anywhere. He'd just get camped in front of the tele for hours.

I'm like shearer too, where I really enjoy and saviour the good ones. I just appreciate everything more, now that I get less.

[crabmeat thompson]

I'm not certain if it the cause or a symptom, but my enthusuasm for surfing has really waned in recent years.

Surfing is like sleep. It's 100% habitual. The more you do it, the more you need and want it.

[alakaboo]

I was just like that Ricky, but my wife recently told me that my slavish devotion to surfing was one of the most attractive things about me when we first met and now that the kids are easier to look after I need to start being more selfish again and just go whenever the surf is good.

Could've knocked me over with a feather. I think it's a trick to make me drive when we go out.

[steve shearer]

thats rad.

[RickyG]

I was just like that Ricky, but my wife recently told me that my slavish devotion to surfing was one of the most attractive things about me when we first met and now that the kids are easier to look after I need to start being more selfish again and just go whenever the surf is good.

Could've knocked me over with a feather. I think it's a trick to make me drive when we go out.

Nice one!

Re just enjoying the good surfs - that's always been a bit dififcult for me. I'm not naturally gifted in any sporting pursuit, so to be at a point where I can enjoy the good days I really need to be surfing frequently (even if it's crap) in between just to keep the timing and feel of it together.

It's less of an issue now that I'm exercising regularly through the week (surfing used to be my only serious physical activity) but as we all know surfing is the only way to keep fit for surfing.

I reckon a few dawn pre-work surfs might be in order over the summer when works quiet.

[crabmeat thompson]

Even flatwater SUP'ing, Ricky. Look into that. I do a bit. I can take the kids on it too. My daughter loves it, and she'd rather do that than bike riding or running.

Good shoulder & lat/ deltoid workout. All muscles used for paddling.

Excellent core, hammy/ quads, knees & calf workout too. Really hones your balance and the fast twitch muscles, much the same of when you first plant your feet on your surfboard. It keeps them primed and strong.

I now do a crosstraining bit with my SUP. I'll paddle the kids around for a km or two. Then I drop them back off and they swim in the shallows of the creek, and then I'll lie down on the board and paddle it 800 mtres up wind, around the bridge and back to them while they swim. Just keeping the shoulders & paddling muscles primed.

It all helps keep the stoke alive. lol

[andy2476]

Lucky you've got the pit bull to keep an eye on them.