RealSurf Surfers' Forum

hmmmm....have based my life around access too surf time

people change

what do u look for in a last surf

dropin on everyone cause u don't give a rats

give your board away some random in the carpark :?

me...i'm looking for a tube

anyone else been here done that.....sunday will be my last surf...for quite a time

i wish exit in a suitable manner please help my planing

have done this a few times fong and my last one is never really planned out unfortunately.
I'm on a hiatus at the moment and my last surf was horrible! I contracted some weird inner ear problem that resulted in a vertigo kind of condition so every surf had me feeling dizzy and wanting to throw up. Its been this way since i got back from indo in april and i just cant be buggered any more till this feeling goes. Lucky i've been flat out with work and family other wise i'd be back in the mental wing for sure!

I know this doesn't really help, but if its any consolation, I'd like to go out with a big barrel that twists and warps and finally closes out. I'd cough and splutter my way to the beach grinning ear to ear and take my leggy off at the shore and watch the two halves of my board wash in and out with residual ebb and flow. it'd be a rebirthing kind've experience maaaan!

mustkillmulloway wrote:give your board away some random in the carpark :?

a mate did this when he was moving countries, sort of.
left his board on the beach with a note on it with his email, got a message from a FROTHING grom who got a board for free.

Can't help you too much, but it wouldn't be in Noosa.
That spot we've talked about...

Our two yr old boy had his first little stint in daycare yesterday.

that enabled me and the missus to go surfing together for the first time in years.

Glistening babyfood peaks with not a soul in the water.

Riding a mini-mal in thigh high peaks and sharing a few laughs was about as good as it gets.

... in contrast to steve's story.

My last surf before I headed out to Alice springs for 2 years was uneventful.

February storm swell at burleigh. Big storm, lots of gail force onshores and rain for a week, then the sky lifted and wind swung offshore. Every man and his dog got out there for their 1st surf in a week.

Muddy brown water, people everywhere. Got dropped in on, saw a fight and gave two randoms a piece of my mind when they ditched their boards over attempting a duckdive right in front of me while I raced in my only barrel of the session. I had to bail the wave and got carted over the falls.

I was really happy I was leaving this shit behind for a while.

steve shearer wrote:Our two yr old boy had his first little stint in daycare yesterday.

that enabled me and the missus to go surfing together for the first time in years.

Glistening babyfood peaks with not a soul in the water.

Riding a mini-mal in thigh high peaks and sharing a few laughs was about as good as it gets.

surfing with the missus, mate you are living the dream

so what did you do to the lexus driver?

lecture him on the evils of cubism ?

When he's sitting in the tree next to ya, I guess ya know who ya can blame.

Actually Iggs, it's not a mini-mal.
I just said that to see if you were around.

It's a transition era shortboard. A glossed out big ticket item that scenesters would pay top dollar from SixOunce for.
I got a good deal from the boys at Sea Surfboards when they had the factory at Byron Industrial Estate.

Fcuking tricky board to ride.
You can't pump, flail or flap around on it like your spastic samba partner......it's too finely foiled for that.
it needs to be ridden with sensitivity and correct placement.....I know Carroll recommends a mal to clean your style out but this is far superior.
it has a shortboards basic engine and lines.....built around the spiral vee and those gorgeous hand-foiled fins. That back puppy loads up beautifully in a full wrap cuttie on a head high point wave.











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Don't bother trying to guess where this delectable little left is.....your way off.

...

My last surf for three months went down on Sunday 17th of July between 3:30 and dark. It was 2-4 foot, weird, peaky lurchy shore break style waves in Sydneys east . I got a tonne of fun little lefts and basically surfed myself into the ground. Exiting the water in the dark it felt like a good little session to bracket the good run of waves I've managed to snag over the past couple of months. All in all a nice way to go out.

well u cheered me up chong

i'll follow your example i think

Toby wrote:Fruit tree could be up for a bumper crop this summer? What is it?

Correct me if I'm wrong. But it looks like some kind of peach/apricot.

Yeah peaches.

Long as August stays cool and we don't get any bad weather in Sep, it'll be laden with peaches.

Need to thin some of those blossoms.

The last time I thinned some blossoms it almost landed me in a Thai jail.

...

I don't.

It's a freaking scourge.

I wouldn't expect too much unstung fruit.

Looks a lot like the shape of my wife's board, which I ride when it's under waist high.
Absolutely rubbish build (could be a backyard job?) and I hated it when I first rode it, but since I've improved my weighting I haven't had a bad surf on it.
It's on death row, got 3 almost creases.

Who shaped that one, Steve?