Ask Carroll

[gcuts]

Ok, so this is where we meet and share our thoughts. Silly me, newbie and all, thinking it was where Mr Carroll dished out his pearls of wisdom. So, if you all don't mind, I'll add my confession here too.

... i've found over the years my mood kinda mirrors the ocean and the sand. when it's alive and delivering good waves i'm constantly cheerful bordering on almost euphoric. when the ocean is lame, my energy levels and mood are probably down ...

Yes, me too. Outlook on life very different when I have had good waves. But, I've found I am more productive when everthing is in sync - getting good waves, feeling fit, surfing well, and the work side of life seems to fall into place too. When the surfing "lifestyle" side is out, no matter how much effort and the work side is a struggle too. I've taken to doing other things when the surf is crap, rather than endure poor waves. I'll go fishing, or go for a road trip. Luck with work I can pretty much set my own working hours, so I tend to use the surf forecasts to plan work, and where I will be and when.

... whiff of sea air. Fkukk that smell just flicks a switch in the brain, like, ah fkukk I need to get wet.

Yes, the salt air, smell of the ocean has me twitching to get in the water. What is it about the smell and sound of the ocean. I seem to sleep so much better if I drift off with the sound of waves crashing nearby.

... At times I've had to do some soul searching and thought about when I've been on top of my game and answer always comes up as simply being fit and not having a ton of money in the bank, in fact the times I've had coin have been my unhappiest, fair dinkum.

Me too. Money is good for freedom, but it always seems to bring some extra element of responsibility for me, and with that it sort of changes the balance in life. Not only have the times earning a lot of coin been the times away from more frequent surfing, but as you said Davros, looking back, they were not happy times. My health and fitness also suffered. So, it's now a simple formula for me. Earn enough to live and save a few dollars for the future, no big commitments like huge debts, so work can be more flexible and therefore allow me time to surf everyday there are waves.

Having said all that, I do feel at times I can't get enough, like a week of good waves and I still want more. Actually, it can be in the same surf session, I'll paddle back out until my arms are jelly and I am physically unable to catch another wave, and yet my brain will be still wanting more at times.

So, to be fair to Mr Carroll, I'll ask him, this is after all HIS thread.

Do you think this is normal and OK to want more time in the water, even after having a good fill of waves? Why is this surfing "lifestyle" so all consuming? Does it define us, or are we somehow, defining what "surfing" is by doing what we do?

[Hatchnam]

Nick, how do you suggest best way to overcome the dissappintment of buying a new board and it not really doing ut for you when in your mind you thought this board was gonna be the f$ck&ng one!!

What are you wanting from the board, and what isn't it doing ?

No one single board is gonna go great in all conditions. Just surf the hell out of it over and over in a wide variety of conditions, and become aware of what it will and won't do, and keep it for conditions it's best suited to.

[Drailed]

Yeah yeah f@ck I know that, it just isnt doing what I hoped it would and what I bought it for. Am sure I will get it dialled with persistence.

[el rancho]

Firm but fair.

lol

[Hatchnam]

What were you hoping it was going to do ?

[el rancho]

Caress his balls

[aaarating]

Suppose it's the same type of advice with under performing wives and girlfriends? Misogynists may choose to paraphrase this advice re dud surfboards at their own risk of a quick and possibly violent end to said relationship.

[Hatchnam]

ok, so let me take a punt.

i see you got the gary mcneill torus twin. which is essentially a modernised keel fin fish type twin. full rounded outline, and pretty wide in the tail.

looks like a great fun board for small to mid-sized point breaks and walled up peelers where you've got some room to draw out some nice lines etc.

however, you're surfing it in mostly shifty full faced semi-closeout beachies that require instant off the mark speed, consistent drive, and able to handle quick directional changes (critical)

whereas this board in particular feels like it more just wants to cruise down the line, and turn in rounded out arcs?

and while it does feel a little slow off the mark, it does manage to some gather some speed, but not instantly, and requires a bit of a wind up?

[Nick Carroll]

So, to be fair to Mr Carroll, I'll ask him, this is after all HIS thread.

Do you think this is normal and OK to want more time in the water, even after having a good fill of waves? Why is this surfing "lifestyle" so all consuming? Does it define us, or are we somehow, defining what "surfing" is by doing what we do?

Very sensible of you gcuts. Asking something that is.

I think it's totally normal and OK to want more time in the water. Very seldom have I felt completely filled up by a surf for more than a few hours. The only surf experiences that feel like they left me flat for longer than a couple of days were full tilt Mentawais boat trips.

There's a lot about surfing that works, basically. It's a high end skill that teases you to pursue it. There's the constant payoff of that weightless feeling on a wave, almost like you're flying. There's often good friendships involved. Plus you can leave a lot of normal life shit behind when you cross that line between land and water. I guess the thing at the bottom of it all is the salt water itself and the movement through surf, it's always and without exception felt to me like a cleaning thing, like a renewal, and it's right there for you, it's free and unadulterated, any time. You'll look far and wide in the world for something that good.

I dunno about defining, I don't feel defined solely by surfing, even though I would venture a guess that I've committed more of my life to it than anyone else here. I do think we are all in a constant play of re-defining our own thoughts and ideas about surfing, like every wave changes that in some tiny subtle way. We are also in a more distal way engaged in re-defining our ideas about it through watching and hearing other surfers. But I'm not sure there's any single surfer who has really changed the way surfing is, or the basic good things available from it.

[Cranked]

Nick, how can I improve how long I can hold my breath for?

ctd, first the good news, you can already hold your breath just fine.

This exchange slowly percolated around in my memory and I suddenly remembered an occasion long ago when I came close to drowning (leash tangled on the reef) but had no discomfort or panic while holding my breath underwater for over three waves. In fact I had a feeling of absolute calm as I struggled unsuccessfully to undo my leash.

This is in marked contrast to my sometimes panicky feeling of running out of breath when annoyingly held down by a sizable wave for an extended period, but for less than one wave. On the lengthy holddown I knew I was in deep shit and it was absolutely essential that I remain calm, and did. I realise the time period involved was under 60 seconds, but I was struggling hard to release the leash but was prevented from getting to it by the rush of the water.

Nick, do you think that this sort of reaction can be relied on in really extenuating holddown circumstances. Was your reply to ctd "first the good news, you can already hold your breath just fine" hinting at this?

By the way, the leash broke, otherwise I wouldn't be here.

[Nick Carroll]

Suppose it's the same type of advice with under performing wives and girlfriends? Misogynists may choose to paraphrase this advice re dud surfboards at their own risk of a quick and possibly violent end to said relationship.

Surfboards aren't people. I am trusting most of us understand the difference.

[Nick Carroll]

Nick, how can I improve how long I can hold my breath for?

ctd, first the good news, you can already hold your breath just fine.

This exchange slowly percolated around in my memory and I suddenly remembered an occasion long ago when I came close to drowning (leash tangled on the reef) but had no discomfort or panic while holding my breath underwater for over three waves. In fact I had a feeling of absolute calm as I struggled unsuccessfully to undo my leash.

This is in marked contrast to my sometimes panicky feeling of running out of breath when annoyingly held down by a sizable wave for an extended period, but for less than one wave. On the lengthy holddown I knew I was in deep shit and it was absolutely essential that I remain calm, and did. I realise the time period involved was under 60 seconds, but I was struggling hard to release the leash but was prevented from getting to it by the rush of the water.

Nick, do you think that this sort of reaction can be relied on in really extenuating holddown circumstances. Was your reply to ctd "first the good news, you can already hold your breath just fine" hinting at this?

By the way, the leash broke, otherwise I wouldn't be here.

wow that's a story.

there's been a few surfers drown via the ol' leggie round the rock method.

If this happens to you again, or to anyone else reading this, can I give you the tip? Don't try to reach out with your hands to rip the leash off your ankle. Instead, draw yourself in by the legs, then bend from the waist until you can reach your ankle with ease.

ctd yeah, that's pretty much what I was suggesting. You can control your breathing for 90 seconds, well that indicates to me that you are pretty normal and don't need to be concerned with your ability to survive hold downs, even in surf much bigger than you're likely to venture into. Your anxiety reaction is the issue, not your physiology.

[Cranked]

Don't try to reach out with your hands to rip the leash off your ankle. Instead, draw yourself in by the legs, then bend from the waist until you can reach your ankle with ease.

Fcuk yeah, great lifesaving tip Nick, I was held horizontally underwater by the water continually draining off the reef, I was bending from the waist, legs straight, exacerbating the force of the water against me, if I'd used the power of my anchored leg to pull me into a horizontal squat that would have presented less area to the water flow and been much easier. I remember waiting for the flow to reduce, getting my hand to the velcro and trying to release it, but then being forced back by the increased surge of the next wave. There was the first time, the second, the third and me thinking fcuk I don't think I can do the 4th, and miraculously the cord broke and I was free. Great feeling!

[MrMik]

my need for commitment to the cause has evaporated.

mine fluctuates too. it's been good reading about your thoughts, boo.

in general the 3 year hiatus i took from the ocean after i tore my achilles were probably some of the happiest years i've had. there was a kind of alleviating freedom of not being tied into what the weather and ocean and winds are doing at any given point.

I was heaps more freaking productive.
...
...
...

I had a few occurrences in the last 6 months when I felt relieved to find that the wind had turned onshore after work!

As in: Hooray! I don't have to stop and check the surf or decide if to surf or not, I can just drive straight home, how nice.

[CJK]

Nick, I'm interested in your opinions on Bushrat flextails. I know that you have a bit of an interest in them. I'm an average surfer (30 years of mediocrity) but after talking to Jed I'm really keen to give one a go. Jed was incredibly generous with his time and amazing at explaining his boards, but described his boards as fast! My concern is that a flextails might be too finely tuned for my ageing body, and things might happen on a wave faster than I can react. Some reviews talk about flextails smoothing surfing out, some talk about crazy speed and performance. Do you think a custom flextail could be worse for someone's surfing if they aren't up to it?

[crabmeat thompson]

my need for commitment to the cause has evaporated.

mine fluctuates too. it's been good reading about your thoughts, boo.

in general the 3 year hiatus i took from the ocean after i tore my achilles were probably some of the happiest years i've had. there was a kind of alleviating freedom of not being tied into what the weather and ocean and winds are doing at any given point.

I was heaps more freaking productive.
...
...
...

I had a few occurrences in the last 6 months when I felt relieved to find that the wind had turned onshore after work!

As in: Hooray! I don't have to stop and check the surf or decide if to surf or not, I can just drive straight home, how nice.

yeah sometimes it's nice weight to have off the shoulders. haha

[aaarating]

Is it not possible to 'love' a favourite surfboard? Would you agree That most surfers have spent more time on top of their board than on top of the missus?

[Nick Carroll]

Nick, I'm interested in your opinions on Bushrat flextails. I know that you have a bit of an interest in them. I'm an average surfer (30 years of mediocrity) but after talking to Jed I'm really keen to give one a go. Jed was incredibly generous with his time and amazing at explaining his boards, but described his boards as fast! My concern is that a flextails might be too finely tuned for my ageing body, and things might happen on a wave faster than I can react. Some reviews talk about flextails smoothing surfing out, some talk about crazy speed and performance. Do you think a custom flextail could be worse for someone's surfing if they aren't up to it?

Hmm well I have a Jed flextail, I don't think it is that extreme. It doesn't really want me to surf it at a high tempo or in a fast-response sorta way, it likes to be surfed a bit gently in longish glidey turns and prefers frontside style. It's better and better as the waves get better, I never try to surf it in slop or choppy uneven waves. It does some interesting things when surfing flat, that's when you tend to feel the flextail rebounding and pushing the board from the tail. From surfing a couple of others I think there is a pretty significant variation board-to-board and that the production needs of a flextail add up to bigger differences between individual boards than you get in a straight blank/laminate board. Flextails are complex boards but I doubt they'd be worse for your surfing, what it would demand is a fair bit of surfing time on it and no other board.