Ask Carroll

[Davros]

I could do an open mic reading Nicks post similar to Henry Rollins intense "I think I know you".

[Nick Carroll]

Depends on the man.

Most people have enough shit in their technique that they can keep improving forever, getting rid of crappy little bits and pieces and finding new lines and turns, but their bodies won't let 'em.

A really wonderful surfer like Lynchy doesn't have much space to improve and so will feel the diminishment of his physical strength etc quite early in the arc.

There's also the questions of wave quality, equipment, engagement etc. For many people it might just be as simple as Do I give a shit anymore?

A really passionate surfer has a lot of stuff tied up in the act will keep drawing on whatever chances he or she gets to stay ahead of the curve. Boards are better now, maybe you've got a bit more money and can afford a good surf trip more often, maybe you've just got so much skill and awareness in the bank that you don't have to surf so often anyway.

I think the important thing to know is that you can continue to evolve as a surfer despite almost anything, as long as you're smart about it and know your limits, and understand how they do change as you age. Denial of that process is very bad for a surfer. There's no Geoffrey Edelstens in the lineup.

[Nick Carroll]

Like you can fake your sex, race or age on land, but the ocean will find you out quick smart.

[Little]

A club! Brilliant idea for two reasons. It will:
a) Legitimise the sport and
b) Provide a forum for members to brag about their exploits.
This club would be way more beneficial to middle aged sporting drivers than any stupid wellness spa or Himalayan salt lamp.

[rmb]

Nick I have noticed Tim Bonython "swell chasers" amongst others has done a few trips to Tahiti to film some solid swells which Owen Wright has been one of the standout surfers throughout. This has made Owens performance in Fiji today no surprise after he was provided a canvas to showcase his skills. Is Owen Wright the best Goofy Footer on the planet right now? If no where does he fit? This pacific leg could set him up for a World Title.

Non surfing related have you ever attended a Bukkake party?

[Nick Carroll]

Well he's up there for sure. You will probably have forgotten that O's breakthrough WCT performance was at Teahupo'o a few years back, when he blew apart the field in excellent surf and was just nudged by Kelly in the final. This sort of surf is one of his metiers. But only a couple of weeks after that Chopes final, he won the Quik NY event in 3' beachies.

I think he's surfing better now than before his injury break but he has battled to get past the quarterfinal round for a year and a half now. It might just be the need for event/heat practice after the break that's been holding him back at that point.

The "Pacific leg" is a bit of a weird idea considering that after this contest comes Jeffreys Bay. I don't think that matters too much; Owen can do well at any tour location. But a world title shot, I wouldn't be calling that on him just yet.

[Nick Carroll]

oh and can we cut out the dumb arse bukkake type questions for a bit eh? Like what do you think I am going to say to that?

[el rancho]

rmb: of bukkake omelette fame

[crabmeat thompson]

rmb: of bukkake omelette fame

what does rmb stand for?

[Mr Percival]

Ream My Buttocks.

[Drailed]

This is a serious thread for serious surfers asking serious questions about serious surfing.

[Natho]

Nick,

I'm looking for a comfortable top for paddle training to stop my nips getting rashed. To date I have worn wetty vests but I find them a bit restricting. Anything you suggest? I know somewhere on here a while back you suggested a good paddle shirt to look for but I can't find the post. For bottom half and to tuck the frank and spuds I have found compression pants are doing the trick. I guess I could try a compression top?

[Nick Carroll]

you could, that'd be fine.

try to avoid wetsuits, they get in the way.

[steve shearer]

Nick you've alluded to a somewhat paradoxical concept, viz continuing evolution as a surfer versus the reality of declining powers. Where are you at now on that continuum?

[tootr]

Post 45 I put it - my brain is writing cheques my body can't cash

[Nick Carroll]

Nick you've alluded to a somewhat paradoxical concept, viz continuing evolution as a surfer versus the reality of declining powers. Where are you at now on that continuum?

Ha, awesome question

I'm at a point where I am aware that my best surfing performances are behind me. I'm definitely surfing better than I'd ever have imagined at 55 years of age, but that wouldn't have been possible without me getting into a lot of other water activities. My emotional investment in surfing sorta waxes and wanes in a way I have come to identify as a product of age, yet I try to feel this as a gift and allow myself to be lifted by the desire to surf when it arises -- when this occurs I feel all my skills and strengths fall into line and I still have amazing surfs, or amazing highs while surfing, at such times. But that means I also have to be able to let it go when I'm not feeling it and understand not to be troubled by that. I have technical things I want to work on but they require really good surf and I'm not feeling enough contact with high quality waves, which I find frustrating. I can't look too far ahead, but I know I have to be careful and avoid significant injuries from here on in or face a really hard older surfing age. I share a great affection and understanding with many other ultra committed surfers my age, like whenever I see Michael Ho we just automatically connect, boom, that's pretty funny.

Most of all I guess I am trying to let surfing be a lot of different things at once for me when I'm in the water -- every surf has the potential to become a channel to memory and bring me back to younger versions of myself, which feels rare and a deep stroke of fortune.

[Drailed]

Nick, are the ASL doing a board "review" this year and if so will you be on the trip?

[Nick Carroll]

Sure.