Sorry Nick I'm not just passing on my direct experience but what I've been taught and shown and also observed.Nick Carroll wrote:^^No worries.
I want Morgan to see the situation differently: as something he can understand on the basis of his earlier surfing experience. The people you're talking about are going into the water without really thinking about it that way. What you're describing above, about how to deal with slightly larger surf, is what you've learned. I have found that to be kind of useless when assisting other surfers to take new steps; the only person who's going to be able to learn from an account of your direct experience is someone who's walking in your shoes somehow, which means they're either your brother, or you're in AA or NA together. Anyone else, when reading about what you've done in the context of trying to learn what they need to do, will experience a distancing effect; they will sense that your experience is different from theirs, and find it hard to apply in practice, if they recall it at all. Each of us has to teach ourselves how to surf; the key to helping people with that is to get them to think about what they already know, and tip 'em off on how to build on it. I think you were fortunate with Doerner, he seems to have hit you at the right moment; he's a natural teacher.
Main Point being: Riding big surf or even bigger surf is a confidence thing.
One of the main practical ways to improve confidence is to start with the correct equipment, so instead of flapping frantically away in the impact zone on a 6'2" you can actually catch some waves and have fun.
If someone asked you how you would be able to drive through a soft sandy track you'd reasonably say, "well you need a 4WD"
How could this piece of advice cause a "distancing effect" in Morgs?
(sorry that is another question).
It seems to me to just be a basic tenet that your average rec surfer doesn't really grasp (or are too brainwashed by the prevailing board fashions of the time).
You need different equipment to ride bigger surf unless your a highly skilled pro.
Maybe, with all due respect, it's your experience with mostly Pro surfers that has caused you to become distanced to the experience of the recreational surfer.